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Published: December 30th 2016
The ship has arrived in Citivecchia (the port city for Rome) overnight. We had packed last night and our main suitcases have already been picked up. It's a quick breakfast, then a wait for our colour to be announced for disembarkation. Processing is painless, but once we step outside the terminal, it's bedlam.
Taking a tip from someone we met on board, we had pre-booked a van to lug ourselves and our bags to Rome, a 45 minute to 1 hour drive depending on traffic. Outside the terminal is a growing pileup of people with luggage, and locals with handwritten signs, all trying to connect for various pick-ups. Eventually the backup is enough to prevent people from exiting the building. We drag ourselves to one side away from the madness, all the while scanning the sea of people for someone waving our name.
We finally spot our guy after about 15 minutes. He is a pleasant older man with a passenger van who appears to not know a single word of English. Our van mates are a U.S. couple and four Russians.
I haven't talked much to this point about driving culture in the Mediterranean. There are two
basic rules: 1. go as fast as you can, and 2. stay as close as you can to the person in front of you. If that person does not obey either of the two rules above, get even closer and blink your lights, and then, if that doesn't work, use your horn. With regard to pedestrians, don't hit them, but pass as close to them as possible, and if they show fear, all bets are off. When it comes to parking, park at the side of the road if possible; if not, park wherever you like. If you're driving a motorcycle, there are no rules at all either for driving or parking.
Our driver, while a product of the culture I have just described, is actually a good driver. Needless to say, we survived our trip in and arrived safe and sound at our hotel, the Best Western Universo. As in Venice, we had picked this establishment partially because of its close proximity to transportation.
Our room is lovely. It actually has two levels, with the bedroom in a loft overlooking the main area. Nice view of the street. The hotel has wifi and the speed is good.
The two of us are silent for over an hour as we catch up, shoulders hunched, over our devices.
It's now about 2 pm and time for some food. We have already noticed that every second building houses a restaurant so we randomly pick one near the hotel that looks good, the improbably named Washington Caffe. Good Italian fare: buffalo cheese with tomatoes and basil, eggplant parmagiana, and veal saltimbocca. Complimentary limocellos with a significant punch.
We are in the Esquilino neighbourhood of Rome. I read in a magazine that the Rome segment of the James Bond "Spectra" movie was filmed here. We want to make something with what remains of our day, so we strike our for tourist targets within walking distance.
First up is the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore, a few blocks south of our hotel. Dating from 440 AD, it is the fourth largest church in Rome and boasts the city's highest bell tower (campanile). We stand in the spacious square at it front entrance, dominated by a beautiful Corinthian column, and marvel at the magnificent facade.
We queue up to enter. The flow of people into the basilica is being controlled by
Sanctuary featuring relics of holy manger
Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, Rome, Italysecurity. We have to pass our belongings through an x-ray scanner. As an aside, we had noticed previously that the city clearly has an elevated security posture. There are armed soldiers posted conspicuously in the square. We pass through security and enter the basilica. Now, remember that this is our first church in Rome. I know we're eventually going to become jaded and overdosed on religious imagery and sculpture. But today we are fresh. The church is gorgeous. Every surface—wall, ceiling floor, column—is an artistic masterpiece crying out for your attention. In some of the many side naves, ceremonies are under way.
At the far end is the main altar. It is over the sarcophagus containing the remains of St. Matthew (yes, the real St. Matthew). In a separate worship area underneath the altar, accessible by steps are holy relics: pieces of wood reputedly from Jesus' manger.
We then walk back north to the Termini—the main transportation hub I mentioned earlier. We walk along the southern side of this large one area until we reach the Piazza della Republica. This stands on part of what long ago was the Baths of Diocletian, an enormous elaborate structure that occupied
13 hectares. On the south side is a semi-circle of colonnades marking the entrance to the Baths. in the centre stands a beautiful fountain depicting some mythical event involving a great deal of female nudity. On the south side is the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli e die Martiri, designed by Michelangelo to nestle within some of the huge brick walls of the ancient bath. The central nave is in the form of a Greek cross, with the altar at its apex. For the second time today we are struck dumb by the beauties within.
The basilica has another fascinating feature: a meridian solar line made by Francesco Bianchini in 1701. It is essentially a sundial stretching across the floor. Light from a small hole in the wall casts a ray of sunlight to mark the passing of the seasons. Other minuscule holes line up with the major visible stars. The line itself, 45 metres long, is made of bronze encased in marble.
We return to hotel and plan the rest of our stay here. After consulting the Internet and helpful hotel staff, we decide to book a guided tour of the Vatican tomorrow, then the day
after use the hop-on, hop-off bus system to see as much of the other important sights of the city as possible. Thursday we will have to get up early to catch our flight home.
With a plan in place, we eat supper at the hotel restaurant. We opt for the daily special, which consists of a prima of penne carbonnara and a seconda of pork, potatoes and artichoke, followed by dessert. Very tasty.
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