still continued

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The directions to the hostel should have been simple. It turned out to basically be on the main square across from the train station. However, the searched for over half an hour because the directions involved a vering, passing streets, and right, and left, and another left. We were helped by a strange toothless old italian man. He (probably having seen this many times) pointed to the correct street for us. All we had heard was that Naples was a dirty city were you are more likely to be pickpocketed than enjoy yourself.... but the odd toothless man helped us, so the place is fine by me.

We then hit up the archeological musuem (best part, Pompei mosaic remains.... particularly a special wing called the "secret room" containing pornographic art from the walls of Pompeis citizens... tame by our standards of course, but humorous and interesting nonetheless). After a walking tour (city has very few major sights but an exhausting pace.... and plenty of soul that Florence lacks) we retired to our (thank you thank you thank you) private room. We read.

Naples is the city that invented pizza. And we went to the best, most authentic place there. The only offered two varieties of pizza (this place is for purists).... cheese (no toppings) or just sause (no cheese, but with oregano and garlic sprinkled on). It was fantastic and we got to watch them work the old oven.

Back at the hostel the guy working the desk draws us into conversation. Hes great. I, of course, cannot come close to describing him. He loves music (apparently France has the best pop and Brazil has the best rock today) and movies (he talks forever about Star War and Gone with the Wind.... the latter apparently is beloved in Italy as a fable of post-war, reconstruction life). He then informs us (having discovered we are from georgia) that at the Naples home game football (soccer) matches, they fly confederate flags. This is because south italy is just like the south US. Both (his words, not mine) are more conservative, old fashioned, were put upon by their respective norths, etc, etc). Our friend knows the words and can sing Dixie, and several times drops the names of General Lee and Stonewall Jackson. He likes us so much, that when Steven comes to stay there with us, he (and his female companion whose name I will not attempt to spell) gets a discount on the night. We also get free juice and a breakfast upgrade in the morning (unlimited cereal and toast, rather than a lone pastry)..... oh to have the power.

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