Shrunken and shivering "I don’t think my nuts have ever been so shrunken," I wrote in my journal. Shivering and wet after another four hour rain ride, I arrived in the village of Lauria. Lauria is truly just a stop on the way to nowhere. It is a beautiful mountain village. I couldn’t see it when I arrived at nightfall, but the shadowy outlines of high mountains promise a great view in the morning. As I write this, my jeans are drying against the heater in the room. My clothes are taking turns being dried. I think I soaked everything I own again. It’s the same kind of heater I used to use as a kid in the old yellow house my parents rented in Corvallis. I would sit upstairs and start fires and melt Ninja
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