Day in Dublin

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After breakfast, we took a cab from City North Hotel into the center of Dublin. Happily, there was another person in our group who needed to go into the city so we were able to share the fare. We checked our luggage at the Point A Hotel, near Parnell Square, then wandered down O'Connell St. We had purchased gifts for Mike's oncology team and wanted to put it in the mail. How convenient--post office right there and Eason's, a department store, with packaging supplies, just a few doors down. That mission accomplished, we headed on over the O'Connell Bridge and stopped at Fitzgerald's for a bit of lunch. We then hopped into a cab to go to Kilmainham Gaol, my goal for the day. Although it was a real jail and thousands of men, women, and children were held there for sentences lasting from days to years, the tour focused on the political prisoners from the 1798 rebellion, the Easter Rising of 1916, the Anglo-Irish War, 1919-21, and the Irish Civil War, 1922-23. The Easter Rising prisoners and 14 executions were highlighted. It opened in 1796; the jail closed in 1924.

The original jail was as small, dank, and could be crowded as you might imagine; at some points, the overcrowding grew to 4-5 people per cell designed for one and people sleeping on the floor in the hallways. During the famine, some people actually committed petty crimes to get put in jail because you were fed three meals a day. The Gaol had a very low death rate during the famine, especially compared to the rest of the country. Political prisoners were allowed visitors and writing supplies to be brought in from the outside. Grace Plunkett (Gifford), who had gotten married in the prison the night before her husband was executed in 1916, was arrested in 1923 (for her political cartoons, among other activities during the Civil War) painted the Madonna and Child on the wall of her cell (photo below).

The Victorians were big on gaols being places of renewal and redemption, so the newer portion of the gaol was bright and airy (as long as you weren't working in the kitchen or laundry, below the main floor). The idea of solitary cells was soon discovered to cause mental issues if people were kept in them for too long (say, a year).

Checked into our hotel and rested up a bit then walked back down O'Connell to the riverfront to the Arlington Hotel for dinner and a show: Celtic Nights. Mike had found it recommended on TripAdvisor and it was great fun (and the food was good!). Singing, dancing, singing, dancing. Lovely evening. The place was packed with foreigners, at least half Americans. We bought Shamrog's CD. It was pouring out when we left and we were glad of the nice coats on the walk back.

Tomorrow, on to Galway!

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Photos

Court room
The gaol was originally the new County Gaol for Dublin and included a courtroom with a stairwell down into the holding cells (floor level at the back of the room).

Catholic Chapel
When offered his last wish, Joseph Plunkett said he wanted to marry his fiancee, Grace Gifford. They were married in this chapel just a few hours before his execution (1916 Easter Rising).

Inside a jail cell
Taken from a hole in the door.

Light for the workers
So, those who worked in the kitchen and laundry (down the stairs) were provided light by the removal of the man-hole type covers in the floor.

Kilmainham Madonna
painted by Grace Plunkett

Execution wall
The men involved in the Easter Rising were seen, initially, as trouble makers (by the Irish themselves). However, when they were executed, the tide turned against the British and they were seen as heroes.

The original front gate
This is in a gated front 'yard' with a big iron fence separating the grounds from the public.

The balcony
Public executions were usually by hanging from the balcony. They were attended by thousands, thus the fencing separating the yard from the public.

Celtic Nights
we were right up at the stage which seemed a bit dangerous when some of the dancers were kicking!

Both of us
We sat across from one another for dinner. I had great salmon and Mike had cabbage and bacon. Both yummy.

Part of the entertainment
Banjo, two guitars, fiddle, and long whistle players. Took requests, even!

Tin Whistle
This and the long whistle were played quite beautifully!