Dicing with Death


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Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Rhodes » Lindos
August 23rd 2016
Published: June 10th 2017
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Yesterday was a bit tiring, so we sleep in. Issy decides that we need some exercise, and that we should walk to Lindos which is about two kilometres from the hotel. If yesterday was anything to go by I think that Issy's heart would get more exercise if we drove. It is very hot. The only way from the hotel to Lindos is along the main coast road. It is busy, and there are no footpaths. We start walking on the narrow strip of road between the edge of the traffic lane and the crash barrier. There are lots of buses on the road, and they don't seem all that keen on sharing the bitumen with us. After a while Issy decides that this is too dangerous so we swap to the other side of the road where we can walk along the bottom of the concrete drain that is outside the crash barrier. To get to the drain we first need to climb over the crash barrier. I can do this without too much trouble, but Issy struggles. She is too short. She needs to sit on top of the crash barrier for a few seconds during the process. The crash barrier is metal, and it is scalding hot. She says that it has burnt her bum. After a while there is no more drain to walk along. We see that there is a narrow strip of dirt we can walk along outside the crash barrier in the side of the road that we were on originally but we need to cross the crash barriers on both sides of the road to get to it. Issy says that her bum is now completely grilled.

We reach the top of the hill overlooking Lindos. The views from here are way beyond stunning. Lindos sits on a small bay, with the Acropolis as a backdrop, and the sea is an amazing blue colour. We originally found out about Lindos from a Greek restaurant just up the road from us at home in Melbourne, called the Paradise of Lindos. It has a huge mural of Lindos covering one of its walls. The view in front of us now looks exactly the same as the mural.

We walk down into the village. On the way we see lots of people riding donkeys up the hill. We recognise the village square that we were in last night and pass a place called the Donkey Station. We saw a sign for this last night, but it was all closed up. The Donkey Station is a room about ten metres long and five metres wide crammed with donkeys. There is a man in one corner washing them with a hose, and there is a constant stream of donkeys in and out. There is sign saying that you can get a donkey up to the Acropolis for five Euro. I wonder how the donkeys feel about all of this. I don't think any of them look particularly happy.

We find a restaurant with a roof garden, and we order some lunch. We ask the waiter how he is today. He says that he is still here. I tell him that this is what my Greek neighbour in Melbourne says when I ask him how he is. I dare not ask the waiter how his wife is. When I ask my Greek neighbour this he tells me that unfortunately she is still alive. The waiter asks us where we are from. He says that Melbourne is the second largest Greek city in the world and that he has relatives there. We have heard this a lot. I think that most people in Greece have relatives in Melbourne.

We finish lunch and start walking up towards the Acropolis. The path we are on is one of the paths we were on last night when we were lost. I'm glad we didn't try to climb up to the Acropolis in the dark. We pass an English lady coming down the path; she is clinging onto the handrail for dear life. She says that the climb 'is not for the faint hearted'. The path is steep, and the stones that line the path are shiny and slippery. It is hard work but the views from along the path down into the bay are again stunning.

We reach the Acropolis. The sign boards say that there is evidence to suggest that there has been some sort of temple or fortification on this site since the tenth century BC. It was then successively fortified by the Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Knights and the Ottomans. It is surrounded by a large turreted wall. Its other main features are the remains of the Doric Temple of Athena Lindia dating from about 300 BC, and a large staircase and other column structures dating from around the same time. For such a significant archaeological site, it doesn't seem to be particularly well protected. People seem to be able to walk quite freely over all the ancient ruins. I don't think that people trampling all over them can be doing them much good. I think I remember reading that you can't walk on the Acropolis in Athens at all any more, because they are too worried about it getting damaged. The views from the very top of the Acropolis are even more stunning than those we saw previously. We can see down into St Pauls Bay, which is on the other side of the Acropolis from Lindos. This apparently has only a small opening into the sea which doesn't look like an opening at all from our vantage point.

We walk back down into Lindos, and go into a house displaying what a house in Lindos was supposed to have looked like a hundred years ago. It only has one room. This is very consistent with what Constantina told us yesterday. The display includes a bride's tent which is a large piece of cloth that hangs down from the ceiling and goes all around the bed below it. There is a sign saying that the bride was only able to use this on her wedding night. Constantina told us that the bride and her husband had the house to themselves on their wedding night and if this was the case they surely wouldn't have needed a tent. It doesn't look too sound proof, but I still think that it would have come in handy when the rest of the family moved back in. This display however says that the bride wasn't allowed to use it then. I wonder why not. I hope the rest of the family had good supplies of ear plugs and sets of those eye shades that they give you to help you sleep on planes.

We walk down to the beach, which has the same soft sand that is on the beach in front of our hotel. It is very crowded. There are lots of beach umbrellas and sun lounges and most of them seem to be taken. Issy says that it looks like you don't need to pay for them here. I find this hard to believe, but we haven't seem any signs showing prices. Maybe the Greek government pays for them. I didn't think that the Greek government had any money. If they did have a bit of spare change I'm sure they could find more important things to spend it on than beach umbrellas and sun lounges.

We decide that we have done enough dicing with death for today. We decide that we won't walk back to the hotel along the edge of the busy narrow highway, and catch a taxi instead.

We swim, read and sleep on the beach in front of our hotel. It is very relaxing.

We decide that driving into Lindos last night was too stressful and that tonight we will catch a taxi. We get to the village square in about five minutes. I don't think we were there after an hour last night, and it then took us nearly two hours to get back to the hotel again after we'd eaten. I think the taxi fare is money well spent. Issy's stress levels seem to be much lower tonight, and I think I can even see her fingernails starting to grow back.

We find a rooftop terrace to eat on. Our waiter reminds us of Manuel from Fawlty Towers. He greets us with 'thank you, hello, how are you, pleased to meet you, have a good holiday'. We ask for a serviette. He says again 'thank you, hello, how are you, pleased to meet you, have a good holiday'. He then repeats this, or minor variants of it, every time he comes back to the table. He is very cheerful and friendly.


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29th August 2016

Geeze that's a lot of beach umbrellas!
29th August 2016

and that's a lot of steps!
29th August 2016

wow look at those two blue colours - beautiful.

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