Across the Taygetes

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Wednesday 5 October: Across the Taigetes
After breakfast we headed to the north end of the bay, left the car at the road end and set off in search of the old castle, Paleokastro - a few traces visible from the landward side. After a few minutes walk around the end of the promontory the castle came into view on the hilltop overlooking the sea. So we walked steadily up the hill and up through the rather decayed but still impressive gatehouse. Superb views looking back across the bay. Followed the wall walk around the outer barbican and then climbed to the citadel part of the ruins. A big site, originally a classical fortress a long time before the crusaders came this way. After a break from the sun under a convenient tree we walked back down to the car, past the German sunbathers - looking like elderly chamois leathers - and headed vaguely east towards Kalamata.

En route stopped off at the sad remnants of the Druges castle at Androusa, beautiful location looking to the sea across the plain. Also visited the remains of the Byzantine monastery at Samarina, a very attractive church which is obviously built on an ancient temple base, even reusing some of the building blocks. After the quiet country roads Kalamata was a bit of a shock, lots of traffic and mixed signposting. Found our way up to the castle but it was all locked up - long lunchtime closing.

So we headed to Mystras via the spectacular road across the Taygetes mountain range through amazing gorges, along vertiginous drops and hairpin bends and over 4,000 feet at the highest point on the road, lots of roadside stalls selling mountain honey. Arrived at Mystras and booked into the Vyzantion hotel, great views to the old town and castle from our balcony. Hotel almost empty and in need of a makeover - but everything works. Had dinner sitting outside in the square until it started to rain when everyone relocated indoors. Went to bed a bit worried about the weather, tomorrow is a day of walking around the old town of Mystras and it might not be fun in the rain

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