31 walking days done, 1 to go.


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Europe » Greece » Crete » Sfakiá
September 12th 2023
Published: September 12th 2023
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Same as lots of times before, we are not where Travelblog says we are but it’s close. We are about 5 hours walk away or just 20 minutes on the ferry at a little town called Loutro. It’s car free which gives it a certain charm straight away, and it means you either walk in (some) or you ferry in (many). Walkers or ferryers probably means you’re a tourist and the town certainly is geared up for tourists. The waterfront is sun lounges, restaurants, bars and kiosks that seem to specialise is cocktails, long drinks and good wine (their descriptions not mine!). The grills and rotisseries were going as we arrived and that was mid afternoon although it’s like that many tourists will head back to other accommodation venues in the evening. Chickens, lamb and beef were visible and one placed had goat and at least a sign for liver. Again there’s an abundance of sea food, good looking bream and what looks like snapper and some fish that looks absolutely gross, it’s all spines and bumps. I think it would be a tough sell.

The walk here was shortish, starting with about 2 km on the road. The road wasn’t busy but you still have to be careful. Luckily it was early morning and the sun wasn’t too bad at that time. Then it was track time. Again the photos will give an impression of what the trail was like. Despite being on or close to the coast the landscape is barren, dry, devoid of any green and of course rocky. But the sea here is turquoise clear and really lovely. After you manage to tip toe over the rocks and pebbles and actually get wet the ocean floor drops super quickly and you can be in 4 or 5 m of water and only 20 m from the shore. Visibility underwater is good and a swim there was terrific. The beach was called Sweet Water Beach. Most people ferry in but quite a few walked. Proving how resourceful and prepared Australians are we were the only people who remembered to bring their bathers!

Then around the coast, with glimpses of Loutro every now and then to keep moral up. The walk was good even though as the day went on the sun got hotter and a bit threatening. We carry enough sun screen to look after ourselves though but we have seen tourists baste themselves in oils and lay out in the sun and I hate to think what some will be like in a day or so. Sure there are plenty of brown bodies here but there are a few red ones as well. The coast and lovely water sort of counterbalance the barren landscape and really I enjoyed the walk here.

We had a couple of lemonades and an ice cream and shower so we are back to being human again.

I’ll sign off and see you sometime. Caio for now.


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