Greece: The Antiquities

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Greece - The Antiquities

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We've called this Travelblog 'Greece: The Antiquities' for two reasons. One, we're describing our journey through the ancient Greek icons. And, two, after the heat and the go,go,go, we feel quite antiquated. We'll let you choose the 'source' for the description.



As always, if you want to see the picture in a larger size, just click on it.

Day 1 - Friday 7 June; Arrival

After departing Istanbul early, we arrived in Athens and made our way via metro to Monastiraki a central suburb close to the sites of antiquities.



Compared to our experience of other airports and public transport on this particular trip, Athens is light years in arrears. On a different note, the Athenian graffiti offers more colour than the (quite scruffy) city proper.



Having secured an apartment for our time in Athens, our first task was to get some groceries. A nearby supermarket offered some goods, but didn’t have much in the way of fresh food. Using Maps.Me, we headed towards a ‘butcher’, and along the way found the Athens Central Market. What a joy. In Melbourne when first married we used the Victoria market and so were appreciative of the plethora of stalls offering the same wares. First, we secured some eye fillet in the meat section. Then, some fresh Salmon in the fish section. Lastly, we filled our bags with an array of fruit and vegetables. After a month or so having access to only restaurants, being able to choose (and cook) our meals was welcome.



We were certainly appreciative of the ripeness of the fruit. Peaches, Cherries and Apricots that we could eat there and then, not like Mr Coles’ rock hard rubbish! And, the flavour was superb.



We returned to the apartment to empty our bags and ventured out again for some other supplies. This ‘exercise’ provided us with a wonderful ‘view’ of inner Athens’ lifestyle.



The cooking facilities of the apartment were minimal, but being able to relax ‘at home’ was great.

Day 2 - Saturday; Museum

Being Saturday, we reconciled that the major landmarks would likely have more patrons than a weekday, so decided to visit the National Archeological Museum. Being about a kilometre away, we walked the distance and came into contact with more of ‘Athens’.



We’re not normally ‘into’ museums as we find them ‘history locked in time’. There’s normally a remoteness in the presentations. Its as if the ‘finds’ on display are for those living the subject, or (of museums with more recent objects) for those reflective of a past they’ve left behind.



This museum was no exception. There was plenty on display and from the artifacts presented, we were able to view the progression of technological and artistic development in the Aegean from the Neolithic (from approx. 6000 - 3200BC), the Cycladic (from 3200 - 1600BC) and the Mycenaean (from 1600 - 1050BC). The Bronze age developed in the Cycladic and continued through into the Mycenaean, before giving way to (what is known as) the Greek Dark Age - or Geometric period - that persisted until around 800BC. The final set of objects on display reflected those made in the period from 800BC to about 500AD is known as the Archaic Age.



Most of the Museum’s contents were from the Neolithic to the Dark Age. And, as much was discovered from the graves of affluent citizen’s, the display’s were of jewellery, religious type artifacts, and pottery. Except for a few on display, for Archaic Age artifacts we needed to go to another museum.



As noted, the museum allowed us to comprehend how technological developments were used to alter the shape, artistic patterning and durability of earthernware goods over time. What surprised us that while the technological developments have changed over time, the basic designs have not. Perhaps what best demonstrates artistic design is the degree of refinement of moulded / carved / engraved goods. The artifact displays also brought home the point that on one level our (current) society is modern, but on another not a lot of what we do and how we go about it has really changed.



Bruce had researched craft beer on the internet and discovered a pub in nearby Keramikos had Brewdog beer on tap. Brewdog is a great British (Scotch) brewery, who are currently building a brewery in Brisbane to serve the Australian clientelle.



We figured that we could use the public transport to get from the Museum in Omonia to Keramikos. We knew we could use the (underground) Metro to get there, but Judy had aching feet from walking around the museum so we chose to try and take a bus from outside. The app we use gives us good, but not always correct, information. Anyway, we managed to get to the pub via a trolleybus and ordinary bus.



Not only was the trip to the pub worth the effort, Bruce ‘found’ an Athenian microbrewery IPA beer on tap that is what he called “as good as it gets”!

Day 3 - Sunday; the Acropolis

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After a great evening at the pub and a wonderful dinner of steak, we slept like the dead. We were amazed to find it was 10am when we awoke. Must have needed the rest!



We’d read that due to the crowds, one either tries to visit the Acropolis at opening (8am) or after 5pm when its cooler. With daytime temperatures hovering around 35C, the latter seemed more appealing.



Being about one kilometre away, Bruce figured that if we left at about 3:30pm and arrived about 4pm, we’d miss most of the ‘after 5’ crowd. We did as planned.



There weren’t many people at the site when we arrived and as it was hot and dusty, we didn’t linger long. Altogether, we spent a little over an hour at the site. As we departed, we noted the crowd buildup and gave ourselves a pat on the back.



The Acropolis consists of a set of ruins, several reconstructed, on a flat plateau. The buildings are (as one enters) - the Propylaea , the Temple of Athena Nike (can’t get close), the big one - the Parthenon, the Erechtheoin and Pandroseion, and lastly (to one side) the Odeun of Herodes Atticus (a well preserved amphitheatre, still in use). The rest of the ruins are but stones in the ground.



What did we think of the Acropolis? After reading so much over the years about the wonderful archeological ruin that it is, and the centrality of the site to modern democratic society, we felt underwhelmed.



Unlike other historical sites we’ve visited, there was minimal information provided. It seemed to us that the ‘officials’ have decided that independent visitors need either a guide or a book to explain the facets of each monument. Sad really. We had downloaded two book description of the site so had a reasonable understanding of the history and purpose. After visiting various historical sites over the past few weeks in nearby nations with a guide, we often found boards with similar information on display. If we could, we would have ditched the guide and approached the object using our own emotional and cognitive sensitivities.



In comparison to our visit to Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia, where the information boards are both informative and evocative, these at the Acropolis were cold and sterile. Even though we may have arrived at a skewed ‘reality’ when given (what we call) 'good' information, each time we’ve undertaken our 'own' journey through ruins it has felt more ‘real’ to us.



Then again, with so many visitors to the site, there is obviously no incentive to enhance the experience for them.



We also didn’t particularly appreciate the amount of scaffolding that has (apparently) been in place for more than a decade without any work being undertaken (lack of funds). Surely the Greek’s would know that presenting a good image is worth much in tourist appeal and so dismantle. Maybe not!



So, for us, the Acropolis is but a few restored buildings on a high rocky ledge. And, with the lack of associated information on site, the structures have no purposeful human aspect to invoke a ‘lived in’ feel to them. Sure, we know what we read from texts about the activities that occurred. But, the point for us is that the administrators haven’t done what is necessary (that others, elsewhere have done) to give us a sense of (visitorial) belonging to the site.



Oh, well, another icon ticked off the bucket list.



With that, we headed back to the pub to drown our sorrows. Better ambience there!



We’d heard about a nearby restaurant that does things ‘informally’ with good reviews. We visited, got well fed, and agreed with the comments.

Day 4 - Monday; the rest of the ancient stuff

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The remaining ‘ancient’ monuments on the tourist train in the locality of central Athens are the ancient Greek Agora, the (newer) Roman Agora , Hadrian’s library, Tower of the Winds, Hadrian’s Arch and Temple of the Olympian Zeus. Some distance away (near the pub) is the Kerameikos ruins.



It’s perhaps worthwhile here to note that Athens became the leading (European) city in the 1st Millenium BC, but much of the cultural achievements occurred around the 5th Century BC. The city was ‘taken’ from Athenians by the Romans in around 85BC, and much was destroyed. Many of the iconic buildings were spared, but equally, many were converted for other uses. In the third century AD, Goths entered and ruined much of the city. After the expulsion of the Goths, the Romans rebuilt the city (again, using resources that were classical Greek materials). The Visigoths had a go in the 4th century AD, after which Athens did not gain a rebuilding as before. The Crusaders came knocking in about 1200AD, and they also refashioned buildings to suit their interests. While little of antiquity was standing by then, the Turks came thundering through in about 1400AD and left little in their path. And, that which remained was converted to Islamic uses.



The above is not a reflection of the culture undertaken in Athens during those millenia. Rather, that successive aggressors progressively tore down the icons of antiquity.



Perhaps we should be so lucky that something actually still exists.



Like our experience of the Acropolis, minimal information didn’t imbue us with the enthusiasm to want to go beyond just taking pictures.



Along the way, at the site of the Tower of Winds is a beautifully restored little Mosque. Now not in use for religion, it houses periodic displays. For us, the display was of German soldiers’ photographs of Athens during their occupation of WW2. Fascinating.



We’d organised to meet a friend at 5pm and so made our way to her hotel. Then back to the pub for a drink and another nearby restaurant for dinner.

Day 5 - Tuesday; Filopappas Hill, and...

With the ‘major’ antiquities ‘ticked off’, we didn’t feel any desire to visit other museums or explore modern Athens. In fact, we were wanting to explore greenery rather than the urban.



The solution was to hike into nearby Filopappou Hill. Charmed by the reports of artistic expressions (odes to muses, etc.), it turned out this hill held a far more important historical element; democracy. On top of the hill is a monument (mausoleum?) to a prince Philoppapas.



Once on the hill, we could see both the Acropolis and the Agora. The hill made a sort of triangle of the area. On the side of the hill facing both the Acropolis and the Agora was the remains (very, very little) of the site that held the first Athenian ‘parliament’ - then known as the Pnyx. Then, the process was democratic (in true form) and based on equality of and for all. Elitism was, apparently, punishable by ostracisation (for 10 years!).



As we read elsewhere, this site was the commencement of European ‘civilisation’.



On a really hot day, it was nice to walk amongst a tree strewn park. After having reached the summit (and the mausoleum), we headed down to Syngrou and had some lunch.



Using the Metro, we headed back to Kerameikos. While later we’d go to the pub, our focus was the ancient site of Kerameikos. Situated on a small creek and having good deposits of clay, this was a potter’s village. And, we learned, Keram = Ceram(ics). The village was had at a gate out of the city wall. Because of this, those living in the village were also ideally placed to sell their wares to those entering. We learned that this gate was used by returning soldiers, so one part of the village was occupied by ladies selling what soldiers (often) want!



We finished the day with a session at the pub before another great steak and salad home cooked meal.

Day 6 - Wednesday; vavoom

We’d organised to get a rental car at 9:30am. The car was being delivered to us. When organising the paperwork, the agent asked to see Bruce’s local and international licenses. Local yes, what’s with the international license. We hadn’t been informed. Apparently the Greek Government introduced the law in 2018, along with a 1000 Euro fine for those non-EU drivers caught without! Fortunately, we could buy one online. While we were prevented from driving till it arrived, it only took an hour to be sent by email. We toddled off around midday.



We’d booked the car for 2 weeks, but other than 2 nights near Delphi hadn’t determined where we’d go.



Not knowing the state of (any) Greek toll roads, we entered Delphi into our phone satnav with the filter of ‘no toll roads’. We got out of Athens quite quickly and soon were scooting along a freeway. After a while, the satnav directed us off the highway and sent us in the direction (probably correct) of narrow roads. Over a hilly area and onto a plain, so narrow were some they were really only wide enough for one car. We stopped, rearranged the satnav to get us back onto a major road. After an interesting lunch (doughnut sandwich and Greek coffee), we made it to Arachova (pronounced Arahova) , where we’d booked a couple of nights.



Arahova is used as a ski accommodation village, and most buildings out of the village catering for travellers are on what we’d call acreage. After settling in and soaking up the quietness, we headed into the village for dinner. We’d heard about one place that was good, so went there. The owner sat down and asked us what we’d like to eat based on what he had available; which we didn’t know. He explained that people liked to start with soup and he offered a grain based vegetable soup, followed with sauteed greens, and then wild mushrooms flash fried in a cherry balsamic sauce. We accepted the recommendation. The soup wonderful, the greens (don’t know what they were) brilliant and the mushrooms sensational. We selected a beef medallion in tomato gravy with flavoured rice. Good and hearty. This was followed with a pannacotta and a glass of Grappa made from the flesh of green grapes and triple distilled! Apparently it had to be sculled. Talk about rocket fuel!

Day 7 - Thursday. Delphi, and ...

Learning our lesson from Athens, we downloaded a descriptive account for the ancient Delphi ruins so we could be better informed. Being only a small site, and set high in the mountains, it wasn’t pillaged to the same degree as was Athens. Even so, it was still a valuable asset for aggressors.



We learned that Delphi was originally known as Pytho (or Pythos) - which was the term used for the High Priestess - and Delphi was considered the centre (or navel) of the earth, The religious significance was entwined with the reliance on the prophecies priestess (now referred to as the Oracle) who would foretell the future and resolve difficult questions for key citizens.



While better understanding the site, we found the accompanying museum much more inspiring. While Delphi was ‘discovered’ in the 19th century, a protracted archeological excavation process meant that many of the artifacts of the site itself had to be housed in a museum (rather than re-erected). On this see this account.



The contents of the museum were the first we’d experienced of the actual degree of artistic beauty used in the facades of ancient Greek buildings. While a couple of (lesser) statues were discovered, the description of that originally in place is awe inspiring. That they were considered of sufficient worth to be carried off to victor’s palaces is testament to the artistic endeavours of the ancient Greek craftsmen.



We were surprised to see a shield used by warriors of the time. Not only large, but it would have been extremely weighty. They must have been strong in them there days!



Delphi is some 700m above sea level, with the sea being some 20 minutes away by car. We travelled down the range and first came to Kirra, a village on the Gulf of Corinth (or Corinthian Sea). The foreshore is lined with substantial Eucalypts, so couldn’t help but take a picture of the ‘other' Kirra.



Kirra adjoins Itea and both appear well past their glory, having long been used by regional locals as a place to be by the sea. We then headed to Galaxidi (about 10 minutes away) which presented as a much prettier village. We had some lunch (warm Dolmades and Greek Salad) and returned to Arahova to escape the heat.

Reflections.

As noted, we were underwhelmed by the Greek antiquities. In part, because the Greek government has chosen to exclude transparency of information sharing for independent travellers, but also becuase there is no obvious ‘out there’ story linking the various sites. It’s clearly ‘there’, but hidden in text books. Like our impression of Athenian public facilities (very poor), it seems these buildings exist in spite of any interest by the government to promote the historical ‘story’ for travellers. Sad, really. In comparison, Turkey leaves Greece with a huge task to even match them.



Even so, we came away with a far better knowledge of the birthplace of democracy.



That said, and perhaps because of the great craft beer, we did enjoy our time in Athens.



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As always, scroll past this point to see all the photo's uploaded.

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