INTRODUCTION BERLIN

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This blog was written the day after the events occurred. In addition, I was one third of the way when I lost power and everything I had written, so things may be jumbled.

I titled this an introduction to Berlin, because that is basically what we did today. First a comment about the mass transit here, it has to be one of the most comprehensive and perhaps confusing I have ever seen. They have 4 different types of transit: U-bahns (basically subways), S-bahns, similar to the L in Chicago as most elevated but some underground they also server outer lying areas, Trams, which are everywhere and we couldn’t figure them out, and finally busses. The U and S bahns are pretty easy to use, but there is no comprehensive map of the trams, so you would have to live here to understand them.

My next comment is to the type of City Berlin is. It is not your quaint European City with lots of old buildings and preserved history. To the contrary it is a very modern city and they are building everywhere, very little is old most is post 1960. But for the German be spoken everywhere you could be in any US city.

Speaking of history, there seems to be very little emphasis on Berlin or German history prior to the 20^th century here. I am sure it is different in other parts of German, but in Berlin, it is all very much focused on the 20^th century both pre and post WWII. They don’t run away from Hitler (they don’t celebrate him either) but they do present the basic facts in numerous exhibits and museums. And I mean the basic facts. The simply give the history of how he came to power and skim most of the horrendous things that were done during the reign of the third Reich.

If you want to walk or bike, Berlin is pretty flat and there are lots of bike lanes. Most things were in fact walking distance from our hotel, but at this point of the trip even 5 blocks is too much walking for my feet. Finally, Berlin is not a pretty town; it is pretty stark and uninteresting to look at. Lots of shopping malls and hotels but very few original historic buildings, they seem to be rebuilding a few of them, but then it will probably look more like Disney Land then the way it originally looked.

City Bus Tour

The first thing we did, and something we rarely do, is get on the Hop on Hop off tour bus. This gave us an overall picture of Berlin and in fact drove by most of the things there are to see. It started and Brandenburg Gate and proceeded to loop the city, by several embassies, the very large Holocaust memorial (which is right next to the very ugly US Embassy). The bus went through Tiergarten the large city park, by all of the modern government buildings, check point Charlie, what is left of the Berlin Wall and a few other places. We got off at the Museum Island stop.

It tried very hard to rain during our tour, but it really just sprinkled. We were on the top deck (uncovered) of the bus, and as soon as one drop hit their heads most of the other passengers, well all of them except us, headed either off the bus or to the first level. We as Oregonians of coursed braved the few drops of rain, it wasn’t even really a good Oregon Mist.

Altes Museum

Museum Island is an island in the middle of the Spree River. There are 5 large museums on this island. We had planned on only visiting one, but we couldn’t find a water closet and since all museums were included on our Berlin Pass we went in to use the facilities. We did take a quick walk around the first floor. The museum is primarily dedicated to Greek and Roman sculpture and history.

After our quick tour of the museum we went to a Bratwurst stand and got a quick bite to eat. Yes we had Bratwurst with mustard. The bread was stale but the brat was very good.

Pergamonmuseum

In my opinion this is the must see museum in Berlin. It in fact was the highlight of our visit to Berlin. The museum opened in 1930 and it is named after the Pergamon Alter which is rebuilt inside the museum walls, it is in fact the very first exhibit. I am not going to give you a history lesson here but I will say that this museum is dedicated to ancient Mesopotamian cultures. The four main exhibits which are all huge are: The Pergamon Altar, market Gate of Miletus (both originally in what is now Turkey) Ishtar Gate form Babylon (yes Shari that Babylon with good old King Nebuchadnezzar and the tower of Babble) and Mshatta Façade. I will leave it all to you to look up what the significant of these are. We spent over three hours in this museum, not only my feet hurt but our brains almost exploded from information overload.

It was very impressive to see things that were so old, much older than anything I have previously seen in Rome or elsewhere.

River Spree Tour

After our history lesson we headed for the river and a different view of Berlin. Our Berlin Pass also included a one hour river tour. We saw many of the same sights as we did on the bus tour but from a different reference point, and oh, we had a bottle of sparking German wine with this tour (that we had to pay for). It was a good break after the museum and a nice change of pace.

That pretty much wraps up the first full day of Berlin, except for dinner of course. We walked back to the hotel from Museum Island and on our way found a nice little wine store to purchase our evening bottles of wine at.

Dinner

As we left our hotel to get on the S-bahn to get tonight’s restaurant, Jerry’s eyes all most popped out of his head, I turned to see what he was looking at, and I saw this person free falling off the very tall Radisson Hotel. They actually let you bungee jump (for a price) off this building. It isn’t exactly true bungee jumping as it is guided by wires otherwise you would slam into the side of the building. In any event, nothing either of us is doing any time soon, unless we are on the Amazing Race and have to.

The night’s dinner was a Der kartoffelkeller (The potato cellar). If you can’t tell from the name, this place is dedicated to potatoes done in every imaginable fashion from soups to desserts. The menu is huge and so many options it is hard to make a decision, but with a bit of help from our every so friendly waitress (that is not sarcasm) we made our choices. This place like others we have been to has been re3vfiewed on trip advisor. I am telling you right now, ignore everything you read about this restaurant or any restaurant on Trip advisor. They are obviously written by American idiot’s that think every restaurant in the world should be like the United States, fast and no personality. The service was great (the reviews said it was bad and they couldn’t make change, wrong) The food is great, sure it is ultimate comfort food not gourmet, but come on you walked in to a potato restaurant what were you thinking it would be and the selection is amazing. They have a lot of seating both in and outside, we sat outside, but it was a bit cold by the end of dinner.

It took us about 20 minutes to figure out what we wanted. We both went with Karoffel aus de Pfanne (Pan Potatoes). Everything served in one pan. Portions were large and we ate every bit. (See today’s food for full descriptions). Dinner was very good, while maybe not the best on the trip, certainly the most different. I would eat here again and again and this concept would do well in Portland I think.

The waitress was very nice and spoke perfect English. This led us to ask her about currywurst (a Berlin original food). She said it was very good and gave us her favorite place to have it. Guess what we or at least I am having for lunch tomorrow.

Today’s Food

Lunch - Bratwurst on the run

Dinner at Der Kartoffelkeller: I started with potato soup with bacon, smoked sausage and of course potatoes (again not a cream based soup) we both had a mixed salad with our main course. Jerry had the Swiss plate (more meat then he normally eats) Fried potatoes with sauerkraut, smoked pork, grilled sausages, roast pork, bacon, smoked sausage and mustard. It was huge and was a pig lover’s paradise. I had the Hoppel Poppel (no translation) It had fried potatoes, pork, eggs, bacon onions tomatoes cucumbers and various herbs. It was so good.

After all that there simply wasn’t any room a potato pancake, maybe next time.

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Photos

Swiss Plate
If you don't like pork don't order this

Comments

[Shari]

Just what I needed - more homework
That Istar Gate looks spectacular. Now I'm going to have to Google it and learn the history, and I still have two papers to perfect (due tonight). Thanks! Are you going to establish a potato restaurant in Portland since you think it would work?