River Cruise 2018 Day 10

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Our morning is spent cruising up the Danube, watching the little towns go by. The scenery here is less spectacular than in Wachau Valley but still very attractive. There's an apparently infinite parade of small towns with white and yellow buildings, ochre roofs, at least one church with twin spires, and a ruined castle at the highest point above the town.

We have met many couples so far on board, all terrific people. Besides ourselves and our friends, there are at least three other couples from greater Ottawa and several more from the GTO. Two couples from BC. US couples hail from Florida, Colorado, Arizona and Wisconsin. And then, of course, there are the Aussies. You can't swing a kangaroo without hitting an Aussie. They range from quiet demeanour to larger-than-life, but they are so much fun to be with.

While I'm talking about people, I should mention that the Scenic Ruby's service crew are absolutely fantastic. They are so pleasant and helpful. They appear to enjoy their jobs immensely and have good senses of humour. Our cruise director, Werney, is amazing. His enthusiasm and energy are infectious, and he seems to be everywhere at once, making sure things are going smoothly. His "port talks" about the destinations ahead are fun and informative. And when you bother him with a question important or trivial, he is attentive and focused on your needs. A real gem.

Another perk we like is that every guest is issued a "Taylor-Mate". This is an iPod-like device with a cleverly designed earpiece that contains information about the locations we visit or sail by. It also contains self-guided tours of the various towns we visit. And, most importantly, it serves as a wireless communication device on guided tours to enable us to hear our guide. The software, especially its navigation, could be improved, but the concept is brilliant.

My wife has signed up for a bridge game, but only 7 show up, so I'm roped in at the last minute. There are some really good players in the bunch but I don't disgrace myself too badly.

As we approach our destination, Regensburg, we are treated to the spectacle of the Parthenon on the banks of the Danube. This is the so-called "Valhalla" memorial, a replica of Athen's Parthenon built between 1830 and 1841 to celebrate German nationalism. We arrive in Regensburg at 11:30. Regensburg is another UNESCO world heritage site and it happens that today (Sunday) is an annual party to celebrate this fact. The good news is that motor vehicles are banded from the downtown. The bad news is that there are hoards of people downtown, most of whom are drinking beer, or were just drinking beer, or who are planning to drink beer.

We meet our guide just outside the boat for a walking tour of Regensburg and stroll into town. The weather today is lovely, warm and sunny. Very crowded but a festive atmosphere. The main square right on the banks of the river has a bandshell with traditionally dressed musicians playing repetitive oompah music, punctuated by jokes that have the beer-swilling crowd roaring.

Our walking tour takes us through the heart of the old city. Regensburg has a particularly long history, having been a Roman settlement in the 2nd century. More importantly, it has largely escaped the waves of destruction due to wars and fires that have devastated other cities. Consequently it wears its heritage on its sleeve, and many building incorporate very disparate cultural elements. A good example is the ancient Roman Porta Praetoria, now forming part of a medieval gateway. Regensburg's pride and joy is its medieval stone bridge across the Danube, built between 1135 and 1146 and still in use today. Regensburg also boasts one of the oldest and best preserved gothic cathedrals in Germany, St. Peter's. It is incredible from the outside, its gigantic intricately carved gothic spies thrusting into the sky. Inside it is arguably even more spectacular, boasting some of the finest stained glass in the country.

After the formal part of our walking tour, we have some free time to explore the city on its own. Many stores are in fact closed because it's Sunday, although one would think that an exemption would be made on a festival day. We eventually make our way back through the main square, which if anything is even more crowded and rambunctious than when we arrived. We are back on the ship by mid-afternoon.

The Ruby sails at 5:15 pm for Nuremberg. At this point, the Danube makes an almost 180° turn to head south. But we are proceeding north, so we say goodbye to the blue Danube and enter the Main-Danube Canal, which will eventually connect us to the river Main (pronounced "mine").

There are two specialty restaurants abord the Scenic Ruby, and tonight we enjoy a 7-course Italian-style dinner at Portabello. We are randomly sharing the meal with three Australian couples and one British couple. Each course has a wine pairing, and there are also before- and after-dinner drinks, so it's hard to remember anything at all about the evening. No, I'm joking. The meal is extremely good and the service and ambiance are delightful.

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Photos

Valhalla, the Parthenon on the Danube
Regensburg, Germany

Porta Praetoria, incorporating Roman elements
Regensburg, Germany

Stone bridge across the Danube
Regensburg, Germany

Clock tower, showing disparate architecture
Regensburg, Germany

Street scene
Regensburg, Germany

Square
Regensburg, Germany

St. Peter's Cathedral
Regensburg, Germany

Detail of St. Peter's Cathedral
Regensburg, Germany

Stained glass windows in St. Peter's
Regensburg, Germany