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Published: October 22nd 2017
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Geo: 43.8695, 0.258925
On Tuesday we had a ride out to the village of La Romieu. After a lazy day or two we made a conscious effort to get out relatively early but we need not have rushed since the attractions did not open until 10.30, but we passed the time over a coffee in the sunshine and wrote Mum's latest postcard. On first arriving, the wide verges planted with trees, and mellow stone cottages put me in mind of Chipping Camden in the Cotswolds. The roses are particularly pretty at this time of year and next weekend is the annual rose festival event.
Founded in the 14th century by the Cardinal Arnaud d'Aux, the Collegiate Church of St. Peter is a magnificent example of southern European gothic architecture. A stopping point on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella (Way of St. James), the Church is a listed Historic Monument and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, comprising its single nave church, two imposing towers, sacristy adorned with frescoes (strangely there are black-faced angels due to a chemical change in the pigment) from the 14th century, cloister with arcades and garden. Via a precarious spiral stone staircase, we climbed the octagonal tower, pausing
at the different floor levels to marvel at the architectural construction, to reach the uppermost belvedere giving a beautiful panoramic view of the village and the Gers countryside beyond.
Another of La Romieu's claim to fame is the whimsical legend of Angeline and her cats, though her story is not an entirely happy one. Her father was crushed by a tree, and her mother soon after died of a broken heart when our heroine was just a baby. Her kind neighbours took her in and allowed her, over the years, to acquire dozens of pet cats. As a young woman, Angeline and her cats were inseparable, even when she helped her family work in the fields.
Harsh, wet weather for three years in a row caused a great famine, and the starving people of La Romieu had no choice but to start eating cats. Needless to say, this made Angeline very sad. She begged her adoptive parents to let her keep her furry friends, and she eventually was allowed to hide two kittens (one male, one female) in the attic.
Finally, the weather improved and the crops again grew, but La Romieu now had a huge rodent problem, since all the village
cats had been made into stew. Luckily (and quite naturally), the pair of cats to whom Angeline had given safe harbour had multiplied, and Angeline generously offered the villagers several of her kittens, as long as they would be kept as pets, not as snacks. So, voilà! Angeline's cats quickly disposed of the rats and mice, so the village was again saved.
Since this is a legend, they say that as the years went by, Angeline more and more resembled a cat, ears and all.
Much later, in the 20th century, hearing a woman recount this legend to her grandchildren, a sculptor, Maurice Serreau, started creating sculptures of cats which now adorn the buildings of the village. In addition, some residents have added their own kitty art, and in August the village stages a festival of cats.
A few minutes drive away are the award-winning Coursiana Gardens set in 14 acres, comprising four main areas: an arboretum of 700 species from five continents, an English garden, a medicinal planting area, and a kitchen garden. As with the village nearby, the roses were particularly beautiful (they have 350 varieties).
On Thursday we visited the Gascon capital of Auch, marvelling at yet more ecclesiastical architecture with
the cathedral, noted for its brilliantly coloured stained glass. As it was nearing the midday closure period we ran out of time to view all of the structure, but took a gentle stroll around the medieval area, before heading for menu du jour at a hotel recommended by the helpful Tourist Office staff.
Yesterday evening in the setting sun, we went along with another three couples for yet another excellent group meal hosted and prepared by Sonia and Walter. After an aperitif and canapés, we dined on 'bouquet' of salmon, followed by a tasty chicken fricasee accompanied by spinach and spätzle (a new one to us and a kind of soft egg noodle, resembling shredded pancakes), then a local dessert speciality, an apple tart topped with filo-type shreds. This really is the ultimate campsite for us!
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