Anglo-French 'Entente Cordiale'

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Geo: 42.998, 1.8712

Saturday, there was an opportunity for boys and their toys so David took up the offer to go with fellow camper, Rob, to the racetrack at Nogaro where an endurance race was taking place over the weekend. Surprisingly, admission for spectators was free of charge, but they had a good look around the pits, watched some of the laps, before coming back to the site, on what must have been one of the warmest days so far.

Having decided that we must progress with this year's tour, Sunday was our final day in the Gers, and despite the poor forecast we decided to go to St. Puy for the annual May Festival event - an Anglo-French affair and much like a village fete with stalls, sideshows and foodie offerings. As we arrived, a nine piece pipe and drum band, clad in the full traditional Scottish regalia, had formed up and were about to march off down the street. Very good they were too, so much so that I saw at least one person wipe away a tear and I got quite choked myself as they played a number of tunes I recognised. Stirring stuff. Then the heavens opened, as predicted, and we fled for cover under a canopy but the show went on with a brass ensemble playing from a temporary stage with a repertoire including French tunes and Glenn Miller.

After the 'crowning' of the pretty, young May Princess, speeches were made in French and English but were indecipherable due to the deluge, then the band played the National Anthem and the Marseilleise.

In between the rain, we browsed the stalls and bought an Irish Barm Brack tea loaf from an Englishwoman selling traditional homemade cakes in aid of her local church's designated charity. We chatted for quite a while, finding out that she and her husband moved to the area some eleven years ago, extolling the positive effect it had had on their health, as well as benefitting from excellent medical attention when needed.

Having spent enough time there, it was back to the campsite for lunch, then a wait for a break in the showers so as to pack up ahead of our impending move the following day to the Ariege region, a little further south and quite a bit closer to the Pyrenees. Our destination, Camping La Serre at Aigues-Vives, is a little further on from Mirepoix.

The journey was quite straightforward, leaving behind the verdant, rolling countryside of the Gers, to a flatter landscape with the odd glimpse of the snowy mountains in the distance. This was our view as we paused at a motorway aire for our picnic lunch.

We pulled into the site which is tucked away behind the village, accessed by narrow streets, early afternoon and met by the owner who was expecting us. Being low season, only a small part of the site is operational, so we were shown suitable pitches from which to choose, dismissing one since it contained a cluster of his prized wild orchids (the blurb states that there are 25 to be found here but although beautiful to look at, we won't be ticking them off). As we only intended a short stay, we were soon set up on a hedged pitch with a little shade, next to the 'sanitaire' building, overlooking a wooded hillside, to the sound of bleating sheep. It has turned out to be the 'Marie Celeste' of sites since for the most part there has been just us and a Dutch couple round the corner.

The main reason for stopping here was to see the nearby town of Mirepoix which is noted for its well preserved medieval buildings which we explored on Tuesday. Most are around a central square which is clearly a tourist attraction with its cafes, restaurants, carousel and gift shops, and while some of the frontages are modern plate glass, above that the stonework and rooftops are of the ancient style. We had our mid morning refreshments at the Mad Hatter's Cafe, run by an Englishwoman, choosing a toasted teacake with our coffee! We don't purposely go out of our way to seek out familiar food, but it is rather nice occasionally.

After lunch, we drove to Montbel Lake, popular for fishing, then on to the recommended fortified village of Camon, often called 'Little Carcassonne' which was quaint and so pretty with the climbing roses at their best.

Yesterday, we headed for yet another recommended attraction at Vals - the unusual church which is built into and on top of the rocky hillside above the village. The narrow entrance is via a flight of stone steps cut into a natural fault in the rock. Once inside, the church is set out on various levels, with Romanesque frescoes from the XIIth century, but is clearly still used to this day.

In the afternoon, we did the other 'must see' and went to Montsegur Castle, high on a hill overlooking the village of the same name. In 1243, when the whole region was subjected to the Crusades, only Montsegur resisted. After 10 months of siege, the castle went after a 15-day truce. On 16th March, 1244, more than 250 Cathars were burned alive at the stake. The war against the Albigensian heretics was won and Montsegur entered the annals of history. Between the 13th and 15th centuries the Castle became a Royal fortress, then was abandoned up until the end of the 19th century. Had it not been for writers and historians, the tragedy of Montsegur and the Cathars who dared to challenge the authority of both the French King and the Pope, who chose to sacrifice their lives rather than renounce their faith, would have been forgotten.

Access is via a well defined path, steep and rocky, which zigzags up the steep slope. Our efforts were rewarded by fine views over plain and mountain, across the surrounding landscape. After the descent, we moved onto the village itself to visit the museum about the fortress and its turbulent past, followed by tea and tasty, tiny baked biscuits at a rather Bohemian-style cafe.

Au revoir, Ariege, bonjour Languedoc.

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