Another day, another market!


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Europe » France
May 15th 2016
Published: October 22nd 2017
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Geo: 43.8695, 0.258911

The Gers region is very rural with little by way of industrial development, other than vines and the processing activities associated with wine, that is, so it makes for a most relaxing atmosphere. Little wonder that there is a growing ex-pat community, including notably Nigel Lawson and the late Terry Wogan who 18 years ago sold his place in Spain because, so he said, they fancied a change. On staying at a small hotel in order to explore the area for a potential holiday home, he discovered it was up for sale so bought it thus giving them several ensuite bedrooms for visiting family and friends. No doubt they appreciated too the virtual anonymity that the area gave them too.

Anyhow, this last week we set about seeing some of the countryside using Sonia and Walter's useful event listing.

Tuesday was market day in Fleurance during the morning, so off we drove the 30 or so miles across more green and lush countryside, though we did catch the occasional glimpse of snow covered Pyrenees in the distance. Beautiful!

It was a fair sized market with many streets lined with outdoor stalls selling all manner of goods and food stuffs, plus live poultry and rabbits. Amusingly, there is often one selling beds and mattresses! Of course, local produce is in abundance which at this time of year is evidently the strawberry and asparagus season - we bought some strawberries which later tasted absolutely delicious, with no need at all for any sugar, so tender and were just as fresh tasting the following day.

When browsing the undercover market area, we spotted some familiar brands and products from a distance, such as jars of Patak's curry sauces, Colman's packet mixes, Tetley (and numerous others) tea, Marmite and Ribena. On closer inspection, it turned out to be exclusively British groceries for the local ex-pat community. The stall holder, a former accountant, has been running the business for the past 13 years, having goods from supermarkets and wholesalers delivered to her lockup in the UK, then periodically forwarded to her in France.

She seemed to be doing a brisk trade, though she had nothing to tempt us this early in our trip. We chatted at length to one of her regular customers who retired to the area with her husband a few years ago and clearly loves the lifestyle, passing on a few tips for the remainder of our stay in the area.

Wednesday is market day in Condom which we had decided not to explore on our last visit for a supermarket shop as the brass band festival weekend was hotting up. Again, the outdoor stalls lined the streets, but we were more intent on sightseeing, so went inside the cathedral and posed for photographs beside the magnificent statue of Condom's famous brethren. Brought to life by the 1844 novel by Andre Dumas, 'The Three Musketeers', with d'Artagnan being the honorary fourth, who was an actual person from Loupiac.

The following day, Thursday, it was the turn for Sonia and Walter's favourite market of the area, at Eauze, and probably mine too. The stalls sprawl out along many streets with much of the same that we have encountered elsewhere, but we did purchase some unusual saffron honey from a Belgian of French grandparents who also spoke very good English, so we had an interesting chat to him. There's a great deal of chatting generally at these markets which seems to be as much a social occasion as a shopping expedition.

During a coffee stop, there was an intriguing distraction when a couple, each with a young child on their backs, came into the square leading a donkey, laden down with panniers. They attracted considerable attention and do not know whether they had merely come to shop, or perhaps they were undertaking a unique touring holiday! Curious.

While in Condom on Wednesday, we looked up a well recommended establishment called 'La Table des Cordeliers', which has both a formal restaurant and an adjoining bistro, with widely differing menu prices. We went for the latter for lunch earlier today which was excellent and most enjoyable. Under the guidance of chef, Eric Sampietro, they have been awarded Michelin 1* rating and given the subtle flavours, and imaginative dishes, you can see why. Following an amuse bouche of beetroot mousse, to start, stack of vegetables, topped with filo wrapped potato cake for him, cream of asparagus soup for me. We both had the prawns with courgettes for mains since we, for the most part, dislike duck which is in abundance around here, unfortunately. For pud, his was a sort of strawberry 'soup' topped with a sesame seed wafer, while mine was chocolate mouse with passion fruit ice cream on the side. An utterly scrumptious treat in charming surroundings.

Plenty of sunshine this afternoon as I write this, so hopefully long may it continue. We have no firm plans at the moment as to when and where we shall move on though Walter says we can stay as long as want until October!


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