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Rugged coastline
La Pointe Saint-HospiceYesterday was a rest day for us, following our outing to the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild the day before. The walks through the villa's extensive gardens took its toll on both of us, so we lounged around the apartment all day, resting weary legs and doing some household chores. Since our days are dwindling down to a precious few here in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (a.k.a. "Paradise"), late this morning we decided to hike another one of the nature trails recommended by the local tourist office.
La Pointe Saint-Hospice is an appendage of the Cap Ferrat peninsula, extending in an easterly direction from the main backbone of the peninsula itself. The walking trail begins at the Jardin de la Paix (Garden of Peace), a cute little pocket-park that lies on the lower section of Avenue Jean Mermoz, about a 10-minute walk from the marina (on the same street where our apartment is located).
We had not been aware of this tiny oasis, which offers a commanding view of a small beach and the Mediterranean Sea below. So we paused for awhile at the classy-looking concession stand, with tables and umbrellas, that offers sandwiches, salads and beverages. After downing a Corona, a bottle
of Perrier and admiring the scenic views, we strapped on our hiking boots and ventured forth.
The weather conditions this morning were ideal, with blue skies, mild temperatures (mid-60s) and cool breezes from the sea. The first section of the trail, as we strolled by maritime pine trees to our left, and the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean to our right, was a piece of cake. The pavement surfaces in this section are smooth and flat, but that would change dramatically when we reached the Colombier headland, with its dramatic landscapes of limestone rocks cut by the salt and sea spray.
Suddenly the trail surfaces transitioned from smooth to rough-as-a-cob, with protruding and rocky flagstones making the footing treacherous, especially for Dee with her cane. As we gazed down below the walking trail, the rugged appearance of the rocks and outcroppings was a stark contrast to the sedate coastal areas we have seen on the Cap Ferrat peninsula.
After inching along the rocky path for about 30 minutes, we finally reached the point where we veered off the main trail toward the ultimate goal of our walk, the Saint-Hospice chapel. The exit point, the Edmund Davis alley,
is actually an ascending ramp with a step-up every 10 feet or so. After a 100 yards we reached the paved road that runs past the entry drive to the chapel. At this point, Dee sat down to rest, while I walked-up the 100 meter driveway leading to a small cemetery, and after ascending two-dozen more stairs, reached the chapel itself.
Apart from its commanding views of the little cemetery and the sea below, the most notable feature of this church (a place of Catholic worship built in the 17th-century) is the gigantic (11-meters-high) bronze statue of the Virgin carrying the Child Jesus that was erected next to the chapel in 1903. After a brief visit inside this modest chapel, and taking some photos of the statue itself, I walked (thankfully downhill) back down the long driveway to rejoin Dee on the road below. From this point it was a 20-minute-walk, passing above the small beach at La Paloma, where the fine weather had attracted quite a few beachgoers, before we returned to our starting point at the Jardin de la Paix.
Our trek today lasted about 2 hours, which included several rest stops and the visit to
the chapel. So the little park and concession stand were in full-swing when we returned around 1:00 o'clock, with almost all of the tables filled with customers. We decided to wait it out a bit, in order to have a light lunch, and in a few minutes we shared the best sandwich we've eaten in a long while. Billed on the menu as a "Pan bagnat", it included tuna in olive oil, green peppers, olives, tomatoes, radishes and artichokes, all served on a large, round roll that was absolutely delicious (Dee drank a glass of rosé, while I downed another Corona). When a young waiter mistakenly brought a waffle drenched in chocolate sauce to our table, we enjoyed it for dessert before heading back to our apartment.
Dee's Comments: Of course, we missed our children, grandkids and friends on Mother's Day yesterday, but from Facebook posts it looks like everyone had a great day. But how many times in your life do you get to enjoy such a day in a heavenly spot like this? I'm getting sad already at the prospect of leaving this little piece of paradise...but yet more adventures await us!
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Jeni
non-member comment
Just when you think it can’t get any better, wow, it does. Paradise is almost an understatement after seeing these photos. I can see why you wouldn’t want to leave. I love when waiters make a mistake and bring you a dessert, especially one like that! I hope you have another day as fantastic as yesterday!