Monet & E. Dehillerin

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Due to Technical Difficulties, There are no Pictures (Camera is on Strike)



The day started at 6 am, our normal get up during vacation time. If a certain someone did not take 90 minutes to get ready, we wouldn’t have to get up so early (no I am not that certain someone), in any event, down to breakfast at 8. Had several good conversations with other quest, the majority seemed to all be from Washington State. The woman couple at the table were off to Versailles for the day (Sunday is the better day as that is when the fountains are working), we gave them a few hints on their visit and some dinner tips for later in their trip.

We woke up to pouring rain and I mean hard Portland Oregon Winter rain. Fortunately, we brought umbrellas so were fully prepared. First up was the Musée Marmottan Monet, housed in the former hunting lodge of Duke de Valmy. This is in the heart of the 16^th in a mostly residential area, with very large green spaces, all that is left of the once hunting grounds of the duke. The museum did not always have Monet at the end but since it now has the largest collection of Monet in the world, his name was added to the Museum.

Getting there was not overly difficult, although we did take a wrong turn and walked about 6 extra long blocks out of our way. We did have to take three different Metro lines 8, 6 & 9 before we walked the ½ mile to the museum, and of course that is when the rain decided to kick back in. The museum itself is small and very doable in under two hours. If you are a Monet fan, this is a must. The entire basement is nothing but Monet after Monet. The rest of the museum is a combination of mostly impressionist, with whatever special exhibition they are having. Most of the ground floor rooms also have French Empire period furniture pieces on display.

It took us about 90 minutes for us to see the entire museum, which is well under our museum brain cut off, of three hours. After that it was back to the metro to transfer to the 2^nd and Rue Montogruiel, a major market street that starts in the 2^nd and ends in the 1^st. The first time we walked down Rue Montogruiel was on one of the two trips we made in 2012 for my 50^th Birthday. It has changed quite a bit since then, fewer actual markets than before. I am sure that has a great deal to do with the grate Covid Plague of 2020/21. We started at the top of the street and walked to the end, looking for a place to eat. There were a couple of places that looked like they might be a good choice, but one was dedicated to Escargot, and I was not ready for snails yet, especially at lunch, much to rich. Finally, at the very end of the street we found a very typical brasserie and the outside seating was covered as it was still drizzling. We ate all fresco and made a few friends as we ate. Well, it was almost a scene out of Hitchcock’s “The Birds” as Jerry gave them a little bread and then they got very aggressive, flying right up to our plates.

I had a very French Croque Madame and Jerry had an equally French Onion Soup (no they don’t call it French Onion Soup in France. I also had some Rose, yes, I am on a bit of a Rose kick. After lunch we walked a couple of blocks to E. Dehillerin, we have been here before and I have blogged about it before, but this visit had a very specific purpose: A pan for making Pommes Anna. I am sure you’re asking what is Pommes Anna? Simply the best potatoes you have ever had. Simple recipe, clarified butter, salt, pepper and sliced potatoes. The trick is the cooking. They are supposed to turn out like a crispy potato cake. I have been making them in one of my cast iron skillet, with mixed results. Julia Child, where I of course got the recipe from, mentioned in her “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” cookbook that there was a very specific pan for making them, and I knew that the only place one could possibly be purchased was at E. Dehillerin in Paris. I got the very last one, not only do I have the pan to make the perfect Pommes Anna, but it is also copper, which checks off something else I have always wanted, copper cookware.

After that it was back to the Hotel, to drop off our shopping treasure, then on to hopefully win my 38-year battle with the Eiffel Tower. I have been to the first stage many times, the second stage several times, but to the very top once, but never managed to make it to the summit and have Champagne from the Champagne Bar. Would this be the year? Our years of traveling have taught us at least one thing, if you can buy a ticket for anything in advance, do it. You save the que for buying tickets, you get a timed entry, and save what could be several hours. So this trip I did exactly that, not only did I buy the ticket to the top, I prebought the summit/champagne experience all in advance. The tower would not beat me this year. As I said, it was a rainy day, with a chance of severe thunderstorms, and guess what in those conditions they typically close the summit and there are no refunds.

We had a 4:30 entry time, the weather by then, had calmed, but the skies did look as if they might open up at any moment. The rain held off, as did the wind and we approached the elevator to take us to the second stage, where we would transfer to the summit elevator. So far so good, we got to the second stage and the line for the summit was very quick. Safely in the elevator to the top, we ascended 75 more seconds, and I would be at the top, but would the champagne bare actually be open. When the elevator door opened, there was no taking chances it was straight to the champagne, and yes it was open, the tickets were scanned the champagne was poured, I finally concurred her, I had my Moët at the summit of the Eiffel Tower. I never have to go again, unless of course someone is visiting us when we retire in France.

After conquering the Tower, we headed back to the hotel. I may have beat the tower, but the streets of Paris beat the hell out of my body. We had walked almost 8 miles that day, and my lower back and feet were not happy. We spent a bit to much time at the tower, so were running late for dinner, a quick freshen up and a taxi, instead of the metro (not that my body wanted to walk any more) we were at one of our favorite bistro’s in Paris.

Bistrot d’ Henri.

This bistro is in the 6^th, a very busy night spot, and tonight was not any different, all of the youngsters were out for their Saturday night socializing. Meaning standing outside the bars, drinking and smoking or vaping (The French still smoke like it is going out of style.) Bistrot Henri was packed, not a table to be had, if you didn’t have a reservation. We ended up with the best table in the house. The food here is 100%!t(MISSING)raditional French, zero fusion, zero nouvelle cuisine, just simple classic French dishes. So the meal:

Yes, champagne to start, always champagne to start.

Starters

Jerry: Zucchini Terrine, best way to describe it is a crustless quiche, with a tomato sauce. It was the dish of the day.

Chris: Bone Marrow, great toast, a bit of bone marrow and a dash of salt, and you have the prefect bite.

Mains

Jerry: Yes beef. Rib Steak Charolais, a very perfectly cooked steak, no sauce, no extra’s just steak.

Chris. Lamb Chops, a bit fatty, but still its lamb it can’t be bad, and in the French style I picked up the bone to get every last bite.

Both entrees came with Potatoes Dauphinoise, very well put together, needed (yes here it comes Christina) sale and pepper.

All went down with a nice bottle of Chateau St. Estephe

Dessert

Jerry: Clafouti with apples and pears.

Chris: Chocolate Mousse.

After a nice last dinner in Paris before heading to Lyon, we went back to the room. We were exhausted and just went to bed. This is why I am a day behind in the blogging. We are currently just finishing up our first night in Lyon, so I have yet another day to blog about to get caught up.

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Photos

Zucchini Tart
Dish of the Day

Comments

[Sharon L Hughson]

IF People Visit?
I will be visiting you in France. You don’t have to summit the tower again. You can wait for me below if you prefer, but I will be going to the top for sure. I’m sad there were no pictures, and I hope your camera decides to work for the rest of the trip. I wanted to hear about the chocolate mousse.