France & Italy Spring 2010

Europe » France » Île-de-France
September 20th 2018

Published: September 20th 2018

Bon Voyage

San Francisco, California, United States
Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Bon Voyage!

It's 9:00 am in San Francisco, March 23, 2010. The sun shines brilliantly in the sky, the air has that first hint of spring and the dogs downstairs are barking. Damned dogs! SHUT UP FOR ONCE! Don’t get me wrong – I love dogs, but these dogs are relentless in their barking – and bark for no reason. Oh well, guess everyone and everything wants to be heard.

We’re packed and ready to go. We eagerly await our chariot to whisk us off to SFO and points east. United Airlines will take good care of us, of that we’re certain – haven’t let us down yet. The bags are secured, not stuffed, and will have room for any treasure we may find in France or Italy. I’m thinking shoes!

I leave with a heavy heart. Amy has been ill lately. She has been living in an assisted care facility since August; and has had many scares. In the last week she has fallen far too many times. Yesterday she hit her head, and now sports quite a knot. She fell this morning at 3:30 and again at 8:00. I managed to call when an attendant was in her room, and amid the confusion got to speak with mom. Her voice was clear; she wasn’t "out of it" as experienced in our conversation last night. And, with a firm voice she told me to go. Enjoy Paris and Italy. She is ready and not afraid. So I said my goodbye to mom; for the last time? Who knows?

I’ve shed some tears. Who wouldn’t?

I dedicate this trip to my mother, Amy; the original vagabond. Mom taught me to embrace new cultures, try new things, challenge myself in new ways, and climb the tree of life and, finally, to take no prisoners. So, in her name we shall conquer Paris, Bologna and Firenze! Mom instilled in me a love for travel. The bug bit me early and often. For that I shall always be grateful.

Whatever happens with Mom is out of my control (and that does NOT make me happy). But, so be it. Mom is ready to embark on a new experience, and so are we. So, a toast to my mother; to a life well lived, a life of love, a life of grief, a life of challenges and triumphs. Until we see one another again.

Mom, I love you. I know in my heart this is what you want, for yourself and for your children. So we’re off to SFO and points East.

I need a drink.

Bon Arivee!!

We made it! Now, If I can get used to this keyboard, we are in business! This is going to take some getting used to. Had an opportunity to speak to Mom while at the airport. She was being admitted to hospital, so the conversation was quite brief. She is now in a skilled care facility. The flight over was quite enjoyable. Business class, full flat bed...and I slept for, well, maybe an hour! Chris, he slept for 5 (bitch). Landed at Frankfurt on time, and without incident. OK, can we talk about that CRAZY airport? A maze, a rodent den, quite illogical! Our flight to Paris was brief and packed with German students on holiday...this does not bode well! We arrived in Paris around 2 pm, after much discussion, bus, train, taxi...we decided to take the taxi. So much easier. Our hotel is 2 blocks off the Champs Elysee, at the George V metro stop. Nice neighborhood, if I do say so myself! We checked in, last to arrive, and hit....the shower! BLISS! We then hit the streets of Paris. We walked for 2 hours in and around our neighborhood. We returned to the hotel for a reception meeting at Mood (no-not the fabric store from Project Runway). Mood is a hip bar just off the Champs; very modern. We enjoyed appetizers, champagne, and toasted our arrival...in one piece! After champagne, we decided to take the boat tour of the Seine. Chris has never done this excursion, I did in 1979. The boat was PACKED...with students from Italy, Germany and France! Spring Break is international! We never heard a bit of the commentary form the tour. Not a word! When we floated under a bridge we were treated to the din of screaming kids. Welcome to Paris! We still had a wonderful time. After the boat tour it was back to the hotel and to bed! OK, the king sized bed - not so much! Or the Kings of France were quite small. Blessed sleep!

Paris, Île-de-France, France
Thursday, March 25, 2010

Thursday.

The sky is blue, the air is brisk, and we are in PARIS! Today is FULL day. We took off early for Les Halle. We found our favorite cooking stores and did some damage, remembering we must carry everything home! On the way back to the hotel, a little rain. Nothing significant. After regrouping Chris & I decide to walk some more, pick up some tea for Charlene, and grab some lunch.

Lunch was a curry chicken sandwich, water, and dessert, all for 8€. NICE! We then began our journey to Place Madeline, and the tea shop. Two blocks in, the rain started...did I say rain? I meant TORRENTIAL downpour! We were soaked. We arrived at the tea shop dripping water onto their beautiful wood floor. They immediately poured a lovely cup of tea, gratis. Bliss again! Back out the door, brilliant sunshine, 10 degrees warmer! Seriously? We made our way back to the hotel to drop off the purchase, dry off and prepare for the Jewelry Atelier.

I learned that what we call jewelry is nothing of the sort....unless there are multiple diamonds involved....lots and lots of them! This atelier supplies Van Cleef and Arpels, about 70 per cent of her business. Brigette is the 4th generation running the family business! I know my sister would have been in hog heaven. We saw 2 major pieces being made. One a zipper convertible bracelet, necklace, with 250 diamonds; it will be advertised for Van Cleef! The other is a necklace of pearls...10 strands; a choker with 5 bars of diamonds providing structure, completed with 2 teardrop diamonds. One of the diamonds is 10 carats. The other merely 5. All this for a Saudi Princess. Must be nice! The necklace will start at her neck and drape down past her breast! Ohh LaLa

We left the Atelier and walked into Brilliant Sunshine, the thermometer rose ever so slightly. On to the Musee Dorsay - via the metro.

By the time we exited the metro near the museum, the sky had grown dark and ominous. The thermometer dropped significantly, this occurred over a span of 20 minutes. We had some time to spare before our guided tour of the museum, so we did what comes naturally...we took a walk! Running out of time, we met up with the group at the cafe near the museum. The first crack of lightening caught us by surprise. Then the thunder, almost immediately...the storm was quite literally overhead. A bolt of lightening over the Louvre, another immediate clap of thunder. The rain came down in buckets; then the hail. It felt like 5 inches came down in a matter of 1 minute - a solid sheet of rain and hail! It got cold fast! I thought weather changed quickly in Chicago;never have I seen such extremes in one day, let alone in 25 minutes!!!!

We made a mad dash across the street, to make our way into the museum. The tour was wonderful. We had our guide, Sophie, for one hour. After the tour we went back to see some other works, and then decided it was time for dinner.

Dinner was provided by Le Petite Trocquet. Prix fix 31€, we both started with a duck foie gras, quite nice. I had rabbit in a mustard sauce, Chris had lamb - I have never had a better rabbit in my life - just wonderful. They brought the lightest fluffiest mashed potatoes we had ever eaten! Maybe it was because we were ravenous, or maybe, just maybe this one of the better meals consumed by either of us. Magnificent, down to the Cote du Rhone.

After a brisk walk back to the hotel, we collapsed into our tiny bed. On to dream land....

Paris, Île-de-France, France
Friday, March 26, 2010

Friday morning up and out for another adventure in Paris.

The day began at the Rodin Museum, a few metro stops from "home base". Cloudy skies greeted us as we made our way to the museum, we were neither intimidated, nor deterred! The ambient temperature had dropped significantly; again - not deterred, we were prepared! Scarf, gloves, cap (for Chris) cashmere lined vest; thank you Loro Piana...we trudged along the windswept streets of Paris to see the works of Rodin.

The museum is located in his former home, the gardens the setting for some of his larger more memorable works. The interior of the home smaller pieces, and some of the history of Rodin. We started outside...just in case, as it was not raining at the moment. Just beautiful! The gardens, soggy but enjoyable nonetheless. We spent a few hours wandering the gardens and museum, then made our way across the street to the Military Museum, where Napoleon is buried. We chose not to enter, as it was not free (I'm not willing to pay to see someone's burial plot - I do have my limits).

After the museum, we decided to wander the streets of Paris. Our typical "let's see what we can find by keeping our eyes and mind open". We made our way over to Notre Dame, in spite of the crowds, decided to go in. Chris hadn't been in years, I went in '05 when he was working. The sanctuary was packed for service and with tourists at the same time. Immediately we noticed all the crucifix covered in purple cloth. Purple, the color of lent, signifies dark sadness (what I'm told), and the crucifix will be uncovered after holy week. Falls of deaf ears for this atheist! The sanctuary is beautiful, atheist or not!

We left ND, and walked around the Isle de la Cite for a while making our way to the park at the tip of the island. We enjoyed the sun, the skies were clear. We headed back to the front of ND...WC break for Chris. In a matter of seconds the skies grew dark (was it because I kissed Chris in the sanctuary?); Chris was already in the loo, I waited for him above ground and the skies opened up and it hailed like crazy!!! The hail came down sideways with the wind. The throng of students began to scream and run for cover inside Notre Dame...no such luck! Just as quickly as it started, it was over! Chris emerged from the WC and asked what happened? He saw the remnants of the hail, and just laughed. Yes, I was drenched yet again!

The sun came out again, still a little cold, but we had sun. We decided to make our way over to the Latin Quarter, to see what we could see. We decided to stop for a little sweet and found a pastry shop near the School of Technology. We each had a St Honore (YUM)...caramelized puff pastry, cream puffs filled with luscious pastry cream, united by swirls of sweet whipped cream...SO much better than ANYTHING we get at home, and a sliver of strawberry atop. Chris had chocolate chaud (hot coco), I had cafffe (espresso). Since we were on holiday, and by this time had walked the entire length of Paris we felt as though we EARNED it! Besides, everyone knows calories don't count when on holiday!

We made our way back to the hotel, to prepare for another dinner on the town.

Tonight we decided to take a suggestion from our dear friends Jim and Todd. Dinner was on the Place des Vosges. We went to Bistrot de l'Oulette. AMAZING! I had Duck Confit, Chris had White bean Cassoulet with sausage and pork. We started with a goat cheese/cumin/herb mixture with puff pastry and shrimp...divine! Then the main course, and finished with an interesting version of a tart tatin, only better! The apple was wrapped in filo, some creme fraiche decorated the plate, all caramelized with what seemed like an anise sprinkled on the plate; as accompaniment, a glacee of Armagnac...we're talking orgasmic good! We waddled home to bed.

Paris, Île-de-France, France
Saturday, March 27, 2010

Late Start! Last night's dinner did us in, we slept well past 9 am!

Today another day of walking, walking, and more walking! Our first stop of the day was la Defense. The "Financial District" of Paris! Postmodern architecture at its zenith! The Grand Arch, the 20th century version of the Arch de Triumph, only bigger....and sleek.

We then made our way to the Palais Royale; quite interesting. Didn't realize it was a retail arcade - complete with consignment store! The women on the trip will LOVE this bit of news!!! Couture gowns, Chanel suits, handbags of every make, size, and design - a veritable gold mine! Nothing for us...typical!

From the Palais Royale, we made our way along some of the most luxurious, expensive streets in the world. St. Honore, Rue Royale...nice, expensive, and well beyond our wallet. Looking is free! We did, however, stumple upon a table linens store on our way to St. Sulpice. Gorgeous linens; and since we typically buy something for the house on a trip...we indulged our shopping jones. Hey...we didn't buy the 19,000€ Jagere le Coultre watch!!!! Not like we could have in any event! A beautiful "Art Deco" tablecloth and some napkins will be home before we are!

San Sulpice is a beauttiful, old church made famous by The Divinci Code. We saw the roseline!

Our goal was to see the Senate Building, a former Palace known as The Palace of Luxembourg, built by Marie de Medici...widow of the assissinated king of France. Since the 19th Century, it houses the Senate of France. The gardens are just beautiful. We observed families on their walks, men playing chess, people playing tennis; and some even practicing a martial art of some kind (still unsure, sticks were involved).

Again, we walked some more! We're now on our second lap of the city...well, that's how me feet feet! Turns out a nice big blister on the ball of my right foot...these shoes will not be coming home with me!

We needed to be back to the hotel for dinner with the group. This is the final night all will be in Paris together. Dinner was another delight of the gastronomic kind! We dined at Le Procope, in the Latin Quarter. We had the top floor to ourselves - we're a big group! This restaurant has been in operation since 1686! Now, that's old! Kir Royale for the toast, then your choice of red or white wine...White for us. We started with foie gras paired with apricot compote, and panetone; quite good. We both had the sea bass, prepared with an olive/garlic tapenade. Good, but too much garlic for both of us. To finish, a mousse of chocolate and white chocolate, served atop a rasberry and chocolate sauce...good, but I didn't finish; too rich!

It was now 11 pm, and we have to set the clocks ahead (not fair, we already did that in the US); so it was time to go! On our way home we ran into the students from FIDM on the study tour! They looked exhausted, but all confessed to having a wonderful time. We visited with some of the FIDM hosts, from LA, and Paris, then...Home to bed!

Paris, Île-de-France, France
Sunday, March 28, 2010

Sunday... and Paris rolls up the streets, well as far as shopping goes. No problem, we neither need nor want anything (yeah right).

We got up late, losing that hour (again mind you) really took its toll on us. We got up around 9:30 and didn't leave the hotel until around 11 or so. No problem as most of the city was at Palm Sunday services.

Our plans for the day were to go to the Paris Flea Market. There are 2 major markets, Clingancourt, and Vanves. We chose to go to Vanves, becaust it is smaller and easier to manage. We hopped on the Metro, and headed out to Pont du Vanves, only 2 transfers - no problem. We got there to look for something we couldn't live without. No such luck!

The open air market was not terribly busy with people, or so I thought. We rounded the corner and BAM - a wall of people. Then it began to rain. Just a drizzle, but constant. Nothing like the downpours we had become accustomed to! A constant gentle rain. Merchants began to close up shop as their wares got more and more wet. Shoppers were not deterred, we came for a deal dammit, and a deal we would find! No such luck. We saw nothing we could live wìthout, and saw too many things which disturbed us beyond measure. I really don't need to see real stuffed boars heads, or eland heads, or for that matter a fur collar with feet as clasps...that's just wrong! Mind you, I'm no fur prude, but one does have ones limits!!

Bact to the center of town, to once again roam the city on what would be our last full day in Paris. We decided to roam the Left Bank, just to see what we would find. Again, most of the stores were closed, but a few small boutiques were open, not many - we chose not to entertain ourselves in that way. Rather, we walked and walked. We came upon the Ecole du Beaus Arts (does spelling count when its in French)?

We walked back to the Hotel to regroup, refresh ourselves, and get ready for dinner. We were bound and determined to eat before 9 pm! We left the Hotel at 6:30 or so, so far so good. We decided on a restuarant near Sacre Couer, another recommendation from Jim G. We made it to our stop at Pigalle, walked the few blocks to the restaurant and - CLOSED! Huh? Its Sunday night! WTF! We wanted to eat, we needed to eat, we HAVE to eat before 9! It was already after 7. Now What?

We regrouped. Got out the map, and decided to head over to the Marais for a meal, our last meal in the city of lights. By the way - we totally missed the "lights out" on Saturday night!! Would have been cool to see the Eiffel Tower go dark. I digress... So, back to the Metro and over to the Marais.

While wandering the streets of the Marais, we passed a familiar restaurant from a previous trip ('05), where Chris swears one of his lamb bones disappeared from his plate. He started with 4 small ribs from a rack of lamb, he ate 4, but only three bones on his plate! Not going back there...haunted! Some places looked interesting, some just unappealing, and then we rounded a corner and came upon a restaurant called Les Philosophes. The place was hopping. Packed with people, servers weaving in and out of tables in a choreographed ballet of food. This is it! It was 8:30!

Our waiter, fresh from his pas de deux with a bottle of wine, sat us at our table. He had the biggest smile of any waiter I'd ever encountered in Paris...even his eyes smiled brillantly. He had short red hair, a pinkish face and that charming, genuine smile!

Dinner for us both...Chris copied me...again started with Tomato tart tatin, then Steak au poive, and finished with a creme brulee! OK....can we talk! Never, ever did I ever expect to eat anything as good as that Tomato tart tatin! EVER! Good just isn't good enough to describe how it tastes. The tomatoes were piled two inches thick and enrobed in a divine flaky puff pastry. The natural sweetness of the tomato and the slight sweet/acid of the balsamic vinegar was sublime. OK, I was hungry, but DAMN, that was good! I almost asked for another! The steak was cooked to perfection, not too much pepper, just enough and a wonderful sauce. The Creme Brulee was good, but Balthazar, in Manhattan is much better. I expect to see vanilla "caviar" in my creme brulee; taking notes? Dinner was another success. We finished with a cognac, and went back to the hotel to pack.

Not So Easy Jet...!

Paris, Île-de-France, France
Monday, March 29, 2010

Monday, March 29 - time to say goodbye to Paris. We'll be back!

We called for a cab to take us to Orly Sud, for our Easy Jet flight to Venice, then on to Bologna via train.

The Mr Toad's Wild Ride through the streets of Paris reminded me of my first time in Paris. Poor Dad, trying to manouver his way around the Arch de Triumph without hitting another car, or injuring his five other passengers! He finally said, "hang on, I'm going for it" after his third or fourth full circle. The drivers make up the rules as they go along, of that I'm convinced. No lane, make one, no place to park...heck there's room on that sidewalk, I can fit into that space! Naturally all said in a perfect Parisian dialect.

Our Cab driver, maybe, MAYBE he was 19...on a good day; got us to Orly, white knuckles and all, in good time. We had our boarding pass - we checked in from San Francisco - see easy? NOT!

We stood in line for 90 minutes waiting to check in. We didn't move. Not one inch. Idle. Still. For 90 minutes, what little hair I have left, was almost on the floor! Easy Jet has some SERIOUS issues. They were checking in Naples, Nice, everywhere BUT Venice! Our plane was delayed, so what the heck, just let us wait...IN LINE!

OK, we finally checked in. Now, we have to go through security. First, we have to FIND security! I think its a game for Easy Jet...let's see if we can mess with them, get them confused, get on a wrong plane and have to buy another ticket from us...see easy! GRRRRR. The Leo in me was beginning to emerge, but I kept him down. I really did! Eureka, security found. One lane open, another line. Finally a nice gentleman opens up another line, we sail through no problem.

Now, find the gate. Gate found. By this time it was 1:30, our plane was already 30 minutes late in taking off. We decided to split a sandwich, and get some water. Off I went. Meal secured, back to the gate (18 for those interested), and to eat. As we each bite into our half of the sandwich, we hear an announcement. We can't understand it, but everyone at our gate begins to move. Ah, the plane, the plane...it is here! NOPE. We had to change gates. Some joker pilot decided to go to his favorite gate (18) so we had to move. See easy! NOT! We moved from gate 18 to 15, not far, but well, what a mess! So confusing. Chris said he would NEVER criticize SouthWest airlines again. I made NO such promise! But budget flying is for the birds!!

We got on the plane, took off, and made our way to Venice.

In Venice, we gathered our wits and luggage, and headed for the train station. Purchased our ticket and RAN for the train. Made it! The train took about 85 minutes from Venice to Bologna.

The cab from the station in Bologna, to our hotel was easy (are you listening EJ), fast, convenient and we made it to Il Convento de Fiori Seta.

Time to eat! We split an order of Torteloni in a cheese sauce, filled with ricotta and herbs, Chris had rabbit, I had lamb. YUM. We walked back to the hotel and collapsed into bed. See Easy!

Bologna e un Citta' Antica!

Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Tuesday, March 30, 2010

This hotel is DIVINE..in more ways than one! Once a convent, it is now a very contemporary, elegant hotel within the old city wall of Bologna. We have a real king sized bed, not one of those fakes from France! We're in Italy now! The bed is on the firm side - perfect for me, not so much for you know who!

We had our continental breakfast (at 10:30...I told you, the bed is luxurious), then took off into town for our adventure in BO.

This city hasn't changed much in 800 years! Well, there are cars, and electricity, but the city...not so much! It is beautiful. The people are charming. We were stopped twice by other Italians asking for directions! Um, Hello...camera around the neck! Tourist! Well, guess we look Italian. We certainly dress the part.

Our first stop was the Duomo. The facade remains unfinished. Seems as thought the Bolognese wanted to build a chruch to rival St. Peter's, the Vatican didnìt like that. So, the Vatican built a building in the way of the construction, and the locals ran out of money. No facade. See, told you a lot hasn't changed in a long time!

We walked for hours. Some great shopping in Italy. Not much in the way of department stores, a lot of little boutiques, some international chains, but mostly mom and pop stores filled with Italian fashion. Chris noticed there were as many men's stores as women's, unlike home. I think he's in sartorial heaven!

The city shuts down for siesta, so we headed back to the hotel for a rest. How's this for wonderful...the hotel provides a mini laptop for the guests. I'm using it now! Che Bella! We'll head out soon, once you know who wakes up!

What's For Dinner?

Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Wednesday, March 31, 2010

After a nice rest back at the hotel it was time to eat! If you're getting the idea that all we do is eat, may I correct you. We drink as well! No, seriously, I haven't had this many blisters on my feet in I can't remember when. We've worked for each and every meal...and worked it off, we hope!

So, we decided to go to dà Fabio for dinner. The Hotel Manager recommended we try it, so what the heck. We decided to work up our appetite, little did we know just how important this prior planning was! We walked around town for a while and ended up at the Piazza Duomo.

The public transit in Bologna is easy, plentiful and timely (are you taking notes MUNI). Some of the busses are overhead electric, like SF MUNI. Chris observed a flash, thinking nothing of it...then we both heard the clap of thunder. Another flash, and another thunder clap, in a matter of a split second...the storm was overhead! Then the rain! So much rain, the rain came down sideways in sheets. The sky got pitch black in seconds. More thunder, more jagged flashes of light seemingly overhead; and the rain, the rain just got harder and harder! Thank goodness Bologna has these wonderful covered walkways. We ducked into a Burberry, and bought a cap for me. Then the rain stopped!

OK, now dinner. We made our way back to Ristorante dà Fabio. We had 20 minutes to go before it opened, at 8:00 pm, so much for an early dinner. We walked around a little more doing some window shopping in order to wait out the time until the restaurant opened.

So we got back to the restuarant at around 8:20. The server asked if we had a reservation, uh-oh! Then the gentleman we first saw when we got to the restaurant recognized us, and said..."no problem, and escorted us into another room and sat us at a beautriful table. Fabio, of the dà Fabio, is a charming Italian host dressed in grey, with a red and white striped apron. He stands about 5'7", and a smile to light the dark. When we sat he asked if we would like some wine. Certainly! Which kind? Uh-Oh...no wine list! I mentioned Barolo, or Sangiovese...he said he will pick out a superior Sangiovese for us. No half bottles. Uh-Oh. We'll have to drink an entire bottle ourselves. Can't waste wine! The wine arrived a local Sangiovese, perfect bouquet, and even better taste. Uh-oh...What have we gotten ourselves into?

I got up to "wash my hands". When I got back to the table Chris looked as if he'd seen a ghost, oh no, not another haunted restaurant! No...he just let me know that they would be bringing several plates for our first course (primi piatti). No big deal, we'll probably only have to pay for what we eat, I said in order to comfort him, while all the time thinking WTF have we gotten ourselves into! We're SCREWED, we'll have to wash dishes, maybe dine and dash. Uh-Oh. No menu, no wine list...we are way beyond screwed!!!

The plates arrived, one after the other, piled on top of each other like lincoln logs: grilled eggplant, Grilled endive, sauteed zucchini, sliced celery topped with shaved fresh parmigiano reggiano, fresh thinly sliced cotto, grilled fresh house made bread and fresh house made ricotta. This is the first course! Wait, our server forgot to bring out the goulash with soft polenta. The goulash was spicy wild boar in a rich paprika sauce - nothing out of a can here! The polenta was al dente, thick and wonderful. We chose not to try the celery or zucchini, but ate everything else! Oh, we are SO screwed! I need more wine, fill my glass pronto!

We had finished what we were going to eat for the first course. After a wait of about 20 minutes or so, to let things settle, Fabio asked if we would like pasta. PASTA? Did he say pasta? Sure! I had garganelle in bolognese, Chris had potato and spinach gnocchi in a blue cheese sauce. The pasta was brought to the table family style like everything else. We decided to share our pasta dishes with each other. The gnocchi was rich, with a sharp blue cheese sauce; the garganelle (a small rolled pasta tube with ridges to catch the rich red sacue) was delightful and, thankfully, light! More wine, I need more wine!

Another 20 minutes or so, and Fabio asked if we would like a meat course. By this time I was ready to POP, both Chris and I said no to the meat course. So, Fabio announced that we would then have our dessert...he actually said "prepare yourselves for a dessert storm!" He was not kidding! THe server moved a small table to our table side...uh-oh! Then a glass bucket filled with spoons and forks. WTF have we done to ourselves?

First came the fig crostada, then a chocolate cake dusted with powdered sugar, looked like it had walnuts...so none for me; a custard flan of some kind, followed by the most beautiful mascarpone pudding, and a frozen merangue cake with a chocolate sauce. Chris was overjoyed with the merangue, I am not a fan. I had the crostada and the pudding. Chris also had the pudding. At ths point we thought we both would explode...then, he did it! Our server brought an entire dasher of Vanilla Gelato. The gelato hung on the dasher like diamonds around the queens neck...shiny and rich!

OK, this gelato was by far the best gelato we have ever consumed. In fact, I'd argue this is the first gelato I'd ever consumed. Think of the thickest, richest softest gelato you have ever eaten, than multiply that mouth feel by 10! No 100! Soft as 10 ply silk, soft as 4 ply cashmere, soft as silk velveteen....oh my! Good, you betcha!!!

They cleared the table. We heard Fabio announce to the back, Limoncello and Grappa subito. FOr whom? Oh dear lord...US. What have we done? The grappa, aquavit de uva, and limoncello arrived. The bottles were frozen. The shot glasses came to the table on a frozen platter. I had to pluck the glasses off the platter...they were also frozen. Chris took the limoncello, I took the grappa. We were pleased, stressed but pleased!

At the next table sat 2 very handsome well dressed gentlemen. One was the Italian version of Colin Farell, darker than the Irish version, but just as sexy....actually much more sexy as he was ITALIAN! Fabio sat and chatted with them for a while. They discussed cars etc, we couldn't decide if the 2 guys were "together" or not.

We asked for the bill and waited with baited breath. Not bad, actually! Given the amount of food consumed, the fact that we were there for 2 hours, it was one of the cheapest meals consumed on the trip. We left a nice tip, and rolled back to the Hotel, and off to bed.

Day Trippin'

Modena, Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Today, Wednesday, we took a day trip to Modena. The trip took 20 minutes by train, and cost 6.2€ for the both of us. Cheaper than 1 ticket on BART...Modena is 35 miles away from Bologna. Modena, a bright cheerful city north west of Bologna, home of balsamic vinegar, Luciano Pavarotti, and Andrea Bocelli. We didn't see senor Bocelli. We did, however, walk around the city at least 5 times!

We both thought Modena a charming city, but like Bologna, not for us in the long run. We fell in love with the architecture, the colors of Modena, but might want a little more "energy". The homes of MO, as it is known, are bright rich earth tones of burnt siena, burnt umber, olive green etc. The colors come from the earth, lifting our spirits unlike the monochromatic Bologna. Something to be said for color!

The town rolls up its streets from 12:30 to 3:30 - about the time we were there! We grabbed a small piece of pizza, window shopped, and began our hunt for a gelato. After miles and miles, and MILES of searching, we finally found a gelato...nothing like last night. We are forever affected, jaded, our gelato shall always be judged against Fabio's! Chris announced he wants a new ice cream maker with a slower speed so he can recreate Fabio's delicacy. Well, with a bigger kitchen, he can! This means, of course, saving $$$ so we can afford a new home with a bigger kitchen!

Tonight we'll go out for a light dinner. No seriously LIGHT dinner! A dinner with a menu, and wine list!

Ciao for now. Tomorrow we are off to Firenze!

Firenze, finalmente!

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Thursday, April 1, 2010

Dinner Last night was another gastronomic festival of flavor, light not too late and wonderful! We wandered the streets of Bologna, as we often do when visiting a new city, and came upon this little place…I forgot to get a card when we left, but the name was something like clavicle…I really want to remember the name, because the thought of eating at a place named after a bone in the body is somewhat troublesome!

Christopher had cheese filled tortellini with a balsamic reduction sauce…there had to be mascarpone cream in it, it was just too smooth, creamy and luscious. I had pappardelle with a wild boar sauce. Christopher gleefully announced that he had won. Indeed, he had! His dish was truly tasty…he's promised to try to recreate it. I hope he does his homework, I can’t wait to be his guinea pig! We ordered a cotto platter, which included salami, cotto, parmigiano reggiano, olives and came with a beautiful olive oil and balsamic vinegar as garnish. YUM! Food is the reason to go to Bologna. The history and sites aren’t bad, but one goes to Bologna to eat, no dine!

Today we left for Firenze! We were all set, checked out of the room, hired a cab and at the station. One problem…we couldn’t get a direct train to Firenze. Nothing until late afternoon! NO WAY! So the nice woman at the window gave us a way to get to Firenze…the local trains, with one switch in Prato. So, that’s what we did. It took a little longer, but SO worth the time.

The Italian countryside this time of year is bursting with color! Green grasses, yellow tulips….that’s right, tulips, the pink cherry blossoms so full of promise. Che Bella! Our train wound its way up the verdant hills of the Emilia Romana on its way to Tuscany. The route was rather circuitous, through the mountain passes, but just so beautiful. Had we taken the EuroStar, we would have missed this majesty, courtesy of Italy!

At last we are in Firenze!

Our hotel is steps from the Ponte Vecchio! Christopher found our hotel on the web….such a good boy, he really did it this time! I mean, he REALLY did it! This hotel is a modernist delight. Christopher, as promised, you DO know how to pick ém….well, he did pick me!

Our room is HUGE complete with a walk in closet. Oh, by the way, this is one of the smaller rooms! The bathroom, though small is well layed out with privacy for all. The toilet and bidet behind their own door, and the shower on the other side. Quite practical. The bed, again a real king, is comfortable…not too hard, nor too soft. In the words of Goldilocks…just right. We have a built in day couch just under the window. Unfortunately, no view of the Arno, hey can’t have everything….but we certainly came close!

The hotel bar is impressive. The hotel has a clock theme, so the tables are all clocks! Even the bedside tables are clocks, really cool. The colors are white, white and oh, white! The bar is lit with orange lights so it is quite impressive. The walls are adorned with vintage fashion photographs shot in Florence in the late ’50 to early '60’s. Of course, black and white. Adjacent to the bar is a resting room. It is furnished with 5 comfortable oversized chaise lounge chairs. Truly comfortable, and living up to the name, relaxing! This room has a view of the Arno, the ponte vecchio is right in front of you!

We will be staying here again!

We arrived late afternoon, so we rested from our journey, got settled, and made our way onto the crazy streets of Firenze. Talk about CROWDED! Geesh! Shoulder to shoulder we squeezed our way through the cobbled streets of Firenze in search of, you guessed it….FOOD!

We wanted to go back to the restaurant where we had dinner with the gang in ’07, but…no reservation, no dinner! So we made a reservation for Friday and continued our search! We ended up at a tiny place off a side street. We have decided there is no bad food in Italy! We ordered a typical Tuscan meal starting with bruschetta, this time with 2 types of pate and a tapenade. Quite good. I had rigatoni with osso buco…mere words can’t describe the flavor! So rich. So luxurious, so down right good! Christopher had ravioli in a cream sauce. I won that one!

Good Friday...you bet!

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Friday, April 2, 2010

So here we are in Florence. Santa Croce, here we come. I can't believe we had to pay to enter a church...like they need it! Well, maybe to settle the claims against the church, they do in fact need it! let alone the restoration of these glorious houses of, well, worship. Actually, we went to Santa Croce on Thursday, but the previous entry got a little long.

We really didn't know what to expect as today is good Friday, and we are in Florence, with a LOT of people! I mean a LOT OF PEOPLE!!! The line to get into the Duomo was across the plaza, down the street Via de' Martelli, all the way to Via Cavour. In fact, the line stopped just short of the front entrance to the Palazzo Medici! NO WAY! We were NOT going anywhere near the Duomo today!

Friday we hit the ground running. We started at the Palazzo Medici Riccardi. Just as we began the tour a little rain began to fall, nothing serious, but rain nonetheless. The Medici Palace is now a civic building operating as a museum and government building. These Florentines....quite clever! Might as well make a little money and serve the community at the same time! The palazzo...well, what do you think, its a palace!

We left the palace, and wouldn't you know it, that familiar sound...a rumbling BANG, a deep growl and another BANG. The thunderous sounds shook the ground....again right on top of us, and the skies opened up. So, thunderstorms in each of the cities we stayed! The rain lasted a little bit, we were NOT prepared though. The weather bug said clear skies and 55 degrees, such a liar! We went to the hotel, as it IS central, got our hats, and warmer coats to protect ourselves against the nasty elements....again.

We hit the streets. No more rain. Oh well, we were ready THIS time....bring it on! So we made our way over to the Mercato Centrale. Quite interesting! So many food vendors. So many butchers...with horrid looking things on display. Poor Christopher....I think he was a little taken aback. I finally had to tell him not to look, just keep eyes front and avoid all glances to the side. The cows face, I think, truly did him in. I have to admit, it threw me for a loop as well. What could one possibly make from the face of a cow, NO, DON'T TELL ME!!!!!! I truly don't wish an answer, merely rhetorical!

Exiting the Mercado, we walked into a downpour. We were ready! We sauntered as those around us ran for cover! They must have read the weather bug as well....LIAR I tell you! That bug can't tell a rain drop from a snowflake.

We wanted to see the Cappelle Medici, so off to Piazza Madonna, that material girl! Oops, wrong one. Seriously, we entered the museum and were hit smack dab between the eyes with a religious relic. More gruesome images, the dreams tonight are gonna be interesting! First a finger from St. Catherine...now really...WHY! People find comfort in this. I find that a little challenging! I put my foot down at the femur of a martyred Saint. We are outta here!!! Well, at least this part of the museum...we did pay our money to see the tombs.

Michelangelo's tombs of the Medici are impressive. I had the opportunity to see them previously. I remember my father telling me about them as a child, and explaining who the Medici were, who Michelangelo was etc. Fond memories. For Christopher, this was his first time in the Cappelle. he studied the room in school, so seeing it first hand made a lasting impression. I truly think Christopher has fallen in love with Florence....look out Venice, you have competition!

The Palazzo Vecchio was next on our list. Our previous trip to Firenze was quite brief, and Christopher came to Florence with one goal...to buy a leather coat. So this trip, we decided to see things. In '07, we went inside the courtyard of the palazzo, but didn't take the tour. This time, we did it! Christopher is REALLY in love with Firenze, now...I think Venice has been kicked to the curb! I may be reading too much into this, but he has been gushing lately! In the PV, one must look in every direction, including up, just to make certain you see everything. No surface is untouched. Each statue has something interesting to offer...we have proof! Too funny, and NOT for mixed company, if you get my meaning...and NO, I'm NOT talking about the David. In fact, David is quite tame in comparison!!! These Florentines are NOT prudes!

We passed on the Academia, and the Uffizzi this time around. No need. So, we walked around the town some more, and got information for our excursion tomorrow....power shopping at The Mall, an outlet mall in the Chianti region of Tuscany, about an hour away via bus.

While Christopher went in to ask about the bus, I called home to speak to Mom. I sent a note to my sister, Lia, telling her of my idea to call Mom. She suggested a time, and I made the call. The first call went unanswered, so Lia called the facility to have someone assist mom in answering her mobile. It worked. Mom sounded GREAT! In all honesty I thought I had said my final goodbye from the airport. Not so. Told you, she's one tough woman! She has, by now, moved back to her place at the Oak Tree Villa.

Dinner was at Buca dell' Orafo, the same place we had the glorious steak extravaganza in '07! This time around, no steak, not at 52É a kg!!! I had fried chicken with fried artichokes, Christopher has veal liver. He didn't finish it, but he did like it. We had a wonderful bottle of Vino Nobile from Montepulciano...yummy. We are becoming quite good at downing a bottle of wine between us at dinner. Oh well!

We went on a walk to find the Gelateria we all went to in '07. I think it too was haunted and has disappeared....well, at least it isn't where either Christopher or I remember it to be located! RATS, that place was truly good. We settled for inferior gelato, not really, and headed back to the hotel, where we enjoyed a scotch in the lounge. Quite civilized, if I do say so myself.

The Mall: A Luxury Outlet Mall

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Saturday, April 3, 2010

The alarm went off WAY too early! We had to make a 9am bus, so we had to get up and get going.

I failed to mention another great asset of this FINE, and I do mean fine hotel. Yes Christopher, you did a fantastic job of finding hotels for us, and yes you ARE the hotel man! So, back to breakfast...real food! not just bread and cheese. NOPE! Real Tuscan sausages, salami, bacon, and the most wonderful creamy soft golden scrambled eggs you've ever tasted, outside of my own! What DO they feed the chickens in this country...real food. Damn...can't find the question mark on this laptop provided free of charge from this wonderful hotel which Christopher so lovingly located for us!

Back to breakfast...the food in this hotel is spectacular, just like everything else...ok, ok Christopher, this is getting a little too much, even for you! So, we had our eggs, fresh fruit, causages, espresso and nutella...and then we were off. After we brushed our teeth of course. Wouldn't want us to walk around a luxuty mall with kiwi seeds in our teeth would you. Damned that question mark! Where is it. dammit. AAAHHHHHHH

So. We walk to the bus station, which is quite close to the train station....like across the street. After buying the tickets, we decide to wait for the bus and are beginning to see that this bus is going to be full. We got a seat, but not everyone did! In fact, we were close to the front of the driver...would have been in the front seats if not for those 2 women who cut in line...we think they were foreigners! meant to be a joke...can't find the parentheses either! Stupid free laptop! In any event the bus was SRO! The standees came all the way up to just behind the driver. Reminded me of home, and MUNI, almost brought a tear...who am I kidding!

OK...we are beginning to see a pattern. Japanese, Chinese and Korean....at least those are the languages I thought I could detect, In any event, these travellers were READY! Some came on board with suitcases. REALLY...damned question mark and parentheses! These shoppers mean business!

We arrived at our destination in Chianti, a beautiful bucholic location south of Firenze. The Mall is open air, and separated into three wings. We saw a line, well more like a crowd in front of Gucci. I almost felt sorry for those employees, but realized they all were going to make a BUNDLE off of these tourists!! We worked out our strategy. First, go to the stores we like, see what they have, and then go in for the kill. Armani was a dump. Zegna was truly disappointing, everything was manufactured for the outlet, nothing was from their stores. Ferragamo, another disappointment. Burberry...get me OUT OF HERE! The people, the people,,,,talk about claustrophobic! One couldn't move because of the hoards of people pawing the merchandise....that poor staff. Laughing ALL the way to the bank!

Loro Piana...at last, civilization! A beautiful saleswoman greeted us. She spoke in Italian, and commented that we looked so Italian, and were dressed so Italian...she had me at Buon Giorno! I clearly understand Italian better than I speak it. We tried a few words, and then asked her to speak in English. Her English is flawless, with that hint of an Italian accent. Chris...you need to worry! I've fallen in love with this woman! We found 2 coats, and naturally bought them. They were not expensive...by Loro Piana standards. I can hear my father now, but I'm ignoring him. Sorry pop, but I want that coat, and I've worked hard for that coat, and I'm going to HAVE that coat. I think Christopher felt the same way! Mine is a cocoa brown mid thigh trench, with stormsystem, so it is waterproof! Practical, and stylish! Christopher bought a short red jacket. Really nice, I want that coat too...I can't justify 2 coats, even at these prices! His coat also has stormsystem, so again, practical and stylish!

It was time to head home, any more than 2 hours at this mall, and I'd have needed therapy! Those nasty foreign women who cut in line earlier were nowhere to be found, so we got the prime seats on the bus! They probably are still shopping! We wanted to take the express, so we left at a quarter to one, to head back to the hotel, reality and civilization. Or, so we thought....

The ride home was another adventure, in and of itself! Shortly after leaving The Mall, we pulled to the side of the road. We both thought the driver had been stopped for a ticket of some kind. Nope, the bus died! Here we are in the Tuscan countryside, stuck. In a bus. On the autostrada. In the middle of nowhere! He's on the phone trying to get someone at the office. Lunchtime, so no answer. He exits the bus and fiddles with something in the engine, gets back on and tries to start the engine again. He does this routine several times, while finally getting through to the office. I can understand a little, but the best are his descriptions of the engine sounds! Too funny, if it weren't so serious! He doesn't know what the problem is, but the engine isn't turning over.

Finally, the engine engages, and we're off. Well, at least for a little bit. 500 meters from our exit off the autostrada, the bus craps out again....this time for good. On the outside I'm cool as a cucumber, on the inside I am FREAKING OUT! We are on the side of the autostrada. Cars and trucks are whizzing by at all speeds. We are up against the guardrail, and sticking into the lane, so cars have to swerve around us to avoid the bus. AND, if that isn't enough, we are on a ravine, with a flimsy guardrail keeping us from going over. You would freak out too! I had images of a car hitting us, and the bus going into flames. Of couse I would save myself, the coat and Christopher in that order. He's insured...I think! He can take care of himself, and his own coat!

No worries. After about an hour, we were rescued by another bus sent from the company. Our driver couldn't get us off an onto the new bus fast enough! he couldn't get on fast enough. We took off...safely, and were back on our way home.

We spent the rest of the day walking around town, and more shopping! we each bought some shoes....I bought 2 pair, Christopher 1. We had plans for dinner, so we made a call and set up a time to meet Kathy Bailon, from FIDM, for dinner.

We met Kathy at Cantinata Antinori for a wonderful dinner. The Antinori family are International Wine barons. They own several wineries in Italy, Chile, France, and Napa! Needless to say, we had good wine with our dinner. We ordered WAY too much food, but tried to make our way through. I gave up! I barely touched my side dish, and didn't finish my steak...though it was good, it was a little tough.

After dinner we all walked back to our hotel for a drink in the bar. We gave Kathy a tour, she really liked our modern abode. We sat and chatted some more about life, fashion, FIDM and had an opportunity to learn more about one another. Nice evening! We got Kathy a cab, and we went up to collapse in bed...it had been a long day!

Where we stayed

Relais Hotel Centrale Residenza D'Epoca - Via De' Conti 3, Florence, Italy

I shoudda had the duck!

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Sunday, April 4, 2010

Easter Sunday in Firenze, Buona Pasqua.

Our morning started early as we were disrupted from a deep sleep to the sounds of trumpets and drums. An Easter parade perhaps....(found the parentheses, still no question mark). We rolled over and continued our sleep, but not for long.

We figured nothing would be open today, so we decided to take a walk over to the Piazzale Michelangelo to enjoy the view of the city. The walk over was full of wonderful surprises. We stopped to take pictures along the route up the hill. This area of Firenze is charming, a little less congested with tourists and more residential. We found a few houses we have our designs on...just need the money! Small glitch. Oh well!

The view from the Piazzale is spectacular, and for once the weather cooperated. We took some more pictures, enjoyed the view and decided to make our way back to town. We had planned on going to Fiesole today, but as we got a late start, we thought better of it. The final straw was the ever familiar clap of thunder. No, not again! We were prepared, just in case, but decided with the rain coming it made no sense to wander around Fiesole in the rain with nothing open. Maybe Monday, time permitting.

We walked back to town, and headed over towards Santa Croce. It looked closed. The bells throughout the city were tolling all morning and day long. The sounds were glorious. There are actual bells...not the computer crap as with the bell tower at Berkeley.

Chris and I separated for a bit as he needed to get back to the hotel....no need to tell why! I wandered a little more, then caught up with Chris at the hotel.

Stores were open, much to our surprise. We did some window shopping and then came upon a beautiful silk store. Chris and I fell in love with 2 beautiful men's scarves and made the transaction. Not expensive, and truly unique..nothing we would find at home. Chris has been on the hunt for pocket squares the entire trip, we found a gold mine of a store. He ended up with 3 squares, again, quite unique to Italy in their design.

After the shopping the rain started in earnest again, so we headed back to the hotel and just rested.

While on a walk Friday night, we came upon an interesting restaurant that we wanted to try. So, we made reservations for Sunday night at half past seven. FINALLY, an earlish dinner!

The restaurant, Gustavino, is modern in its design, and Tuscan through and through! The manager, owner, maitre 'd whatever you'd like to call him was charming, cute as a button, and very attentive! he remembered us from Friday night and greeted us with open arms. Gotta love those Italians! The restaurant is segregated into 3 separate rooms. The center room is a glass enclosed wine cellar...way cool! One can see into the wine cellar from either section of the restaurant. Our room was closest to the kitchen which was quite small and open to us. Room for 2 no more than 3 in the kitchen.

We read over the menu, our server came over and we talked wines. He knew he had us. We took the bait. We couldn't decide on a wine, so he offered to make suggestions with our courses and we could have a different wine with each course. Ah, the familiar wine pairing!

Christopher started with the foie gras, and a nice pinot noir, I had a puff pastry filled with ricotta, artichokes, raisins, and pine nuts topped with honey and chunks of black pepper over a drizzle of pesto sauce. The wine, a dry Chianti, sangiovese grape. SUBLIME! Score Christopher, zero Jim 100.

The pasta course was equally spectacular. I had small gnocchi in a Gorgonzola sauce. unlike the previous sauce Christopher had, this was subtle, rich and not as much of a bite. Wonderful. Christopher had the Pechi, an extruded pasta quite thick and round, with game hen, cheese and chocolate. Yes, bitter chocolate. Really good. We had the same wine, a Pinot Noir from Piemonte. Again, just wonderful. Score Jim 105, Christopher 100. The puff pastry was far and away the winner up to this point.

For the main course I ordered sea bass, and Christopher ordered the duck. I was going back and forth about the sea bass, as I'm not the biggest fish fan, but I felt as though I needed the omega 3's. Well, I should have ordered the duck! The meal arrived. In front of me was the entire fish, head, tail, skin and all. I nearly lost it! I thought Christopher was going to faint. I have never cleaned a fish. I hate the smell of fish. If I smell fish, game over! I was smelling fish. I know where my food comes from, I know it was alive at some time, but PLEASE....I don't need to see it it in its original state prior to eating it. OY!

I decapitated the fish, put the head on a side dish provided for just that purpose, and called upon my inner Julia Child and remembered how to skin and fillet the fish. I did it! The saying is true, the fish does in fact stink from the head! Once I covered the head...didn't need those eyes staring at me, the smell of fish went away! SIGH! The fish was tender moist and delicious, but I should have had the duck. The wine was a super Tuscan, on a par with Insignia, by Phelps winery. Rich, full bodied, jammy and yet smooth as silk. Oh, I NEEDED that wine!

Our friend, the server, came back to entice us with dessert. NO WAY! I was going to roll out of there at this point. So we passed on dessert, just sat at our table sipped the wine and chatted about our wonderful trip, and how we could make it last. Sigh.

We asked for the bill, big mistake! He wanted to entertain us some more, we could tell. He came back and offered us cantinori (almond cookies) and some sweet wine. No grazie. Again he was back and tried to entice us with another treat. No grazie. Finally, he came back and placed 2 grappa glasses in front of us and poured the most interesting drink I've experienced. A cross between grappa and anisette. Really good. Christopher didn't appreciate it...peasant!

With that, the check arrived. The most expensive dinner we consumed in Europe! Oops! Oh well. Guess the wine really adds up! My name is Jim and I'm...... So, our buddy presented us with a beautiful bottle of extra virgin olive oil from their agra turismo in Tuscany, shook our hands and sent us on our way into the rain. We rolled back to the hotel and fell into bed. Another blissful day in Paradise!

Tomorrow, Monday, is our last full day in Italy. We leave on Tuesday at 1 pm for home. This will be the last entry until we return to the states. Ciao, Ciao.

Firenze, the last day

Florence, Tuscany, Italy
Monday, April 5, 2010

The Monday after Easter in Italy is a bank holiday, so we thought nothing would be open. WRONG!

There were a few closed stores, but for the most part, everything was open. We walked by a little jewelry store on Sunday, near Santa Croce, which caught our eye. We dicided to head back there to see if it would be open. We stared in the window for a minute, saw a light but nothing. Then a mature gentleman opened the door and beckoned us in. He was adorable! This store is unlike ANY jewelry store in Florence! This is the real deal. We noticed a lot of the similar apparatus seen at the Atelier in Paris, so...this guy is legit!

The place is a mess. A craftmans paradise. I'll bet he knows where each and every tool is located, and can find it in a nanosecond, I thought it a mass of confusion, but he knew his way around his workspace. He spoke no English, our Italian, well we were able to make our point.

Christopher had seen a pair of cuff links in the window, mother of pearl with the Florentine Fleur de Lys in silver atop the mother of pearl. He, senor Arcuri, was VERY proud of these cuff links. He told us he designed them and made them himself. I got that much! He pointed to the name of the store, and then to himself. Yes, this is his store, and he is the designer and manufacturer of all the jewelry. If you're ever in Firenze, check it out! Worth the walk, and he's just so charming! Arcuri, is his last name. Preziosi referrs to the jewelry he creates (precious) everything is made by his very own hand! We were thrilled to meet the artisan, see his works and get the cuff links, for a VERY fair price. He wanted to make it VERY clear, that this wasn't just any silver, but Florentine, and 900 not 850 (or that's what I remember hearing...like I said, communication was a little challenging). I just wanted to squeeze him. He's probalby someone's Nonno...he has a real love of life...I could just tell!

We had walked quite a lot on Sunday, so we retraced more steps to pick up other things we liked...like a bill holder. Since there are gonna be MORE bills, we want to keep them organized. The piece is very contemporary, stainless (no polishing) and made locally. Yipee! 2 for 2!

We dropped our treasures at the Hotel, and headed off to the Ferragamo Museum, or as Christopher put it....MECCA! The museum is a short walk from our Hotel, and is located in the basement of the store. This location has served as the headquarters for Ferragamo for a LONG time! The exhibit is truly worth the 5 Euro a person, which funds an animal care facility. Not only are you seeing beautiful innovative shoes, but doing good works for animals. I like that! We spent at least 90 minutes in the museum, just fascinating. The old bills, the lasts...kinda cool! He, Ferragamo, had QUITE a Hollywood following. I think everyone knows he designed and made the ruby slippers for The Wizard of Oz.

We decided to explore "the other side of town" a little more. We crossed the Ponte S. Trinita, and wandered around some more. Hey, if we hadn't wandered, we never would have found Arcuri, the jeweler! Sometimes, not having a plan is the better way to go! Well, at least in our book!

I think we've had about enough of shopping, and I'm not feeling well. Really sore throat, runny nose and a cough. Am I coming down with a cold? Is it allergy? Well, at least its on our last full day abroad.

We headed back to Hotel Centrale for a rest prior to....

Time for Dinner! We had heard about a place called Il volpi e il Uva, from a shopkeeper in Sebastopol, CA. We decided to find it. Well, a little easier said than done. Actually it was quite close, but we were too late. We walked in as they were closing! CLOSING at 7 pm? WTF, this is Italy. Oh well. We wanted to taste some wine and relax. Not this trip! Oh well, gonna have to come back...oh well. Guess we can manage!

Just up the piazza from the wine shop/tasting bar, we found a locals gold mine. We noticed that food prices are a little less expensive on "the other side" of the river! Better late than never! We decided to dine at Bordino Trattoria. Excellent food! Christopher started with a mushroom risotto in a tomato sauce, good...really good. I started with Spaghetti in a cream sauce topped with white truffles! I was in HOG HEAVEN! Subtle, rich, not too overwhelming, and the pasta was cooked to perfection! Just wonderful. We each had a tuscan steak...way too big, we could have and should have shared a single steak order. Dessert was a torte de nonno....filled with a choclate pudding, topped with blanched almonds. YUM! We drank a vino Nobile, and savored every morsel, every drop. The dinner was excellent, and one of the least expensive meals we had in Europe this trip! We'll be back there for certain!

Time to get back to the Hotel and pack for home. This trip has been wonderful.

Observations

San Francisco, California, United States
Thursday, April 8, 2010

OK, we all know the French smoke, but SERIOUSLY! I mean really? Now that smoking is banned in restaurants, the streets outside the restaurants are shrouded in grey puffs of smoke exhaled by the Parisians! Nasty!!!

While riding the metro, I saw a man reading his paper, listening to his ipod, with an unlit cigarette in his mouth! My observation: the Parisians have a cigarette in one hand, an iphone in the other! Head down and ready to go!

Italians are just as bad with the smoking thing. I'd be curious to know the lung cancer rates, or incidences of cancer overall in France & Italy.

The Italians have a cigarette in one hand, the iphone (or other device) slipped between their ear and helmet and manouver the streets of Italy on a Vespa at 35 miles an hour...sometimes downhill, on a VERY narrow road (as observed in Positano in 2007).

Unfortunately, the stereotype of the Ugly American is real! On Easter Sunday morning, we had the unfortunate opportunity to witness Americans at their worst. A small family, husband, wife - in their mid 50's, and their teenage spoiled rotten brat daughter sat at a table next to us. He hadn't bothered to comb his hair, she was equally unkempt. How hard is it to at least bathe before coming down to breakfast? The server came over to take their drink order. She wanted a coffe, with steamed milk. SO, the server brought over a cappuccino. NO! I told you! Coffee, with steamed milk, as her voice got louder and louder. Honey, getting louder doesn't make it better, it just makes you look the fool! The traumatized server came back with "her correct order". A pot of coffee, and a pot of steamed milk! So the cretin could have her coffee. No, she didn't thank the server; but she did say...about time! Nice! Honey, you're a guest in her country, try...even a little...to communicate with them.

The daughter, like her father eating with their mouths agape (I hate that - do we ALL really need to see your food, and hear you smack your lips). REALLY? Asked for an omelette. And specified that they want it cooked. Overdone, hard - burni it. WTF? What's the big deal, she's just gonna unswallow it in a few minutes anyway! Trust me...she was anorexic. Sad, but with that shrew of a mother and that dolt of a father...

Why are the eggs in Italy so yellow? I'm guessing the chickens eat real food, and not pellets from a bad. I have NEVER seen such yellow yolks in my life. AND....the eggs tasted divine! I just love the flavor of real food.

We loved our brief trip to Italy and France. Wouldn't change anything...well except for the tacky Americans at breakfast! We're back in the USA. Back to work, and eagerly await our next adventure!