London to Stockholm

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Greetings From London!

We made it!! A long trip but well worth the exhaustion. We arrived on Thursday quite early to a beautiful London sky. We've had mixed weather - today it’s raining. Nothing serious but rain nonetheless.

Thursday we POWERED through the day on little sleep, we saw quite a lot on day one: Harrods, Kensington Palace, walked through St. James' Park, and met up with Chris' cousin (who happens to also be a Chris - no - not at ALL confusing). We went to dinner at WAGAMAMA (wonderful Japanese food on a budget).

Friday (aka my 50th Birthday) was SPECTACULAR. Everything I dreamed and more. We found our new home – it’s a little place just outside London called Windsor Castle. WOW!!! I'd never been before and Chris went shortly after the fire so we were both pleased and impressed. The trip took most of the day. We returned to the Hotel and collapsed before going to an amazing dinner at Le Gavroche Oh lala - tres chic tres French and well - a wonderful meal. We ate rather late but no big deal. After dinner down at the Hotel Bar I was treated to a glass of Champagne by a handsome waiter from Rome - those Italians will flirt with anything and anyone!! Finally got to bed at 2am!!! No - not with the waiter - but Chris…thought about it though!!

Today was a late start (wonder why?). We are at Chris' cousins' flat here in London - he's quite near Paddington Station - and YES there IS a Bear! He's let us use the 'net to send out a quick note before we go off again on another adventure. We're on our way to Covent Garden and then to Leister Square to check TKTS for bargain shows - it ain't cheap here right now!!

Tomorrow (Sunday) we're taking a river boat to Hampton Court - I've been but Chris (mine) and Chris (the other) have not (well - other went when a Child) - see I told you it can be confusing!! Nora joins us later on Sunday - enjoy your flight!!!

So - off we go onto our adventure for the day. Keep well and we'll try to send Greetings from London Part II

So here we are in London at Chris' house (the cousin - NOT my significant other). He's just made us a lovely dinner - Chilli con carne! Who knew!! Actually QUITE good!! This eating SO late is gonna KILL my insides - current time - 11:30 pm - and we just finished dinner.

So in the days since the last communique - seems like a lifetime ago - we've done QUITE a lot! Saturday - quite rainy so we went to the Royal Academy for a quick tour of the Galleries - quite nice. We walked around London for HOURS - I've the sore feet to prove it. At the last minute we decided to take in a concert at St. Martin in the Fields - Charlene don't hate me!! We spent the evening listening to a Baroque Concert (Vivaldi, Handel, Taco Bell Canon in D). Just AMAZING!!!!!
We ate Fish and Chips at Rock and Sole in Covent Garden - wonderful - Chris and I each had the mushy peas - don't need to go down that road again! Covent Garden was quite wonderful.

Sunday was a bit of a comedy of errors which worked out BEAUTIFULLY!!!! Nora arrived from SF we literally ran into her at the Hotel Restaurant - we're staying at the same hotel so not much of a stretch. She did not, however, get the notes etc we left for her - hmmmm service IS an issue at the Park Lane...not expected from a Sheraton Hotel in MAYFAIR of all places!! Oh - and FABIO - our Italian waiter is just priceless!

So - back to Sunday.... We decided to travel the Thames up to Hampton Court. We (meaning CHRIS...mine) thought it was a 90 minute cruise...well...it was 3 HOURS!! We had a BALL - but no food, no drink and the loo was out of service - not very convenient!!! There was food aboard ship but nothing we would consider eating!

We finally arrived at Hampton Court and had to do a quick tour. Char - they've changed the tours. We did the Kitchen tour, the Queens tour (NO jokes) and the Main tour - but missed the Maze, and Henry's rooms - which Charlene and I have done previously - but it was the Chris' (both) first time to HC. The Garden is now included and not extra (gotta love LABOR) and had to get back on the boat for our ride home - 3 hours downstream as the tide was coming in. On the way we saw the most BEAUTIFUL double rainbow (I have pictures) yes - it rained Sunday as well. We returned home and met Nora for Dinner. We went ot a place near the Hotel, the cuisine was Mexican and Polish - I'm NOT kidding! Wonderful - if you've not had pierogi with cilantro you don't know what you're missing.

So today is Monday (for the next 19 minutes). Our day began early with pastry and proper coffee before our tour of BUCKINGHAM PALACE!!!! Charlene PLEASE don't hate me! AMAZING is all I have to say. That woman knows how to LIVE! We all took a pee at Buckingham Palace - quite proud of that actually. We saw the state rooms and the Banquet room with a table set for 175 of the Queen's best friends. IMPRESSIVE! The gardens are quite nice as well - the lawn mower....John Deere - can't beat a Deere!!!!!

We took Nora to Covent Garden where we had our first Cornish pastie - quite nice. We then tried to get on the London Eye - the queue was 2 hours long so we bought a fast ticket for tomorrow - can't wait. We moved along to the British Museum saw the Rosetta Stone and some marbles - well...they were Greek. Then off to Fortnam and Mason for Champagne Tea - quite "lovely".

We're ALL having a wonderful time and can't wait to get on board our ship on Wednesday. Tomorrow we have BIG plans: The Tower, The London Eye, the Tate Modern (maybe Westminster Abbey) and collapse!!!

So we're OFF.....check in now and again



8-16-08 5PM



Greetings From the Kiel Canal !!!



We finished up in London – rain, rain, and more rain. Didn’t take anything from the experience though; but winter is looking good for our next trip here – fewer crowds!!! The London eye is AMAZING. What an experience. The Tower was fascinating – but the highlight remains Buckingham Palace.



We’re happily on board REGATTA, and what a beautiful Ship! Right now we’re passing through the canal – an all day affair. The beautiful German countryside is just beyond our reach, but clearly in view.



The cruise began with a “little” drama! We were in Victoria Station, London, ready to board our train to Dover. The train we were meant to board was delayed for 1.5 hours, then eventually cancelled…time was running out. We FINALLY got on the train, the trip to Dover was 2 hours and uneventful. We arrived in Dover to rain and WIND! We got our taxi to the terminal only to discover the ship was NOT in port!! The ship could not dock because of the high winds and rain. SO…we got on board a bus for a 1.5 hour trip BACK to London and on to Tillbury – a 20 minute ride from London. We JUST got on the Ship before it set sail. But we made it. Hope we don’t have an emergency as we didn’t get to practice the “muster” drill!!



Our first night was a bit stressful – trying to calm down after running for a ship. But calm down we did. Our first stop was Brugge. A charming Belgian city known for its chocolate and marzipan (and no Jojo – no Marzipan)! Sorry!! The tour was stressful, big and overall a mess – no more tours for us. We felt as though we didn’t get our money’s worth. Oh Well. The day was quite rushed so we felt as though we missed most of the city. A lesson learned.



Yesterday we spent the day in Amsterdam – I’ve been here before (yikes nearly 30 years ago) so I let the others dictate their wishes for the day. We went to the Rijkes (sp?) Museum, the Red Light District, and walked and walked the canals. Nora went on her own and took the canal cruise. Chris & I walked on some more. The ship arrived in port just adjacent to the city center – quite convenient. We took NO tour!!



Tomorrow is Berlin – Chris and I are begging off. We’ll stick to Warnemunde, or Rostock …the 3 hour bus to Berlin just seems overwhelming – and it’s a Sunday – so not much open – we’ve been warned by the ship. So why pay SO much to see a little of Berlin – we’ll get there on our own.



Chris & I are enjoying the cruise experience – what a way to travel. We’ve met a great number of people (mostly from Canada). Oh – almost forgot. When we we arrived on board, the staff greeting us asked where we were from – when we said SF – they asked if we were part of the “Opera Tour”. Well – come to find out there are 25 people from the San Francisco Opera (Nora, Chris and I are subscribers) – quite a coincidence! We’ve met a few of the travelers from SF – but not many.



We’re on day 3 with 11 to go – what a treat this tour is for us. We’re having a wonderful time – working out in the Gym, eating, taking courses, eating, attending auctions, eating, going to shows, eating – you get the picture!!!



Be well – more to come.



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Wednesday, August 20, 2008



9:40 pm – still light out



At Sea in the Baltic



Today was a day spent at Sea. Relaxing hmmm– jury is still out! We’ve been too busy! I took 2 Adobe Photoshop classes, read, ate (big surprise) and attended yet another Art Auction – didn’t buy anything…this time. We’ve been busy from sun-up to sun-down; and up this far north that’s a LONG time!



So where did we leave off….Oh yes, Bruges and Amsterdam and the Kiel Canal . Well we’re not on any more tours – until St. Petersburg. We got a notice today announcing we can’t even get off the ship in St. Pete’s if we don’t have either a visa or a guided tour – so glad we booked the WHOLE thing! We’ll see it all.



So, since we entered the Baltic we’ve been to Warnemunde, Rostock , Copenhagen and Gdansk ; each so beautiful and a joy to visit. We missed Berlin, and happily. We spoke to some people who traveled the day to get there only to hear they missed so much and felt hurried. We want to get to Berlin (and we shall) but see it at our own pace and enjoy our time there.



Rostock is an ancient city which suffered greatly at the hands of the Allies – we were “behind the Iron Curtian” – so to speak! The city was dead as a doornail – it being Sunday. Nothing was open. We walked and enjoyed the Church with its ancient astronomical clock (from the 14^th Century). The city was quite charming, even though asleep. From Rostock, we took the train back to Warnemunde – a seaside resort – BEAUTIFUL, CHARMING; a lively town busting with tourists. Since it is a tourist mecca, they are absolved from Sunday laws and can open shops – unfortunately for us! We succumbed to a beautiful pair of Amber cufflinks – very reasonably priced. Warnemunde is a mix of Sausalito, Carmel, Santa Barbara, and Lido in Venice. So beautiful with pristine beaches where Europeans FLOCK to enjoy the sun. The fools are CRAZY to swim in that water – talk about COLD! I stuck a toe in, and had to be treated for frostbite, (kidding mom). The weather was gorgeous, sunny warm and just a delight. We had a wonderful time. So much better than being on a bus for 6 hours!



We pulled up anchor very late that evening, to accommodate the Berlin group, so Chris and I ate a FINE dinner at the POLO Grill – no connection to Ralph. We had surf and turf and drank a lovely bottle of INSIGNIA – we drank the entire bottle. Thank goodness meals are free. We have reservations one more time at Polo, and another for TOSCANA – the other “Fine Dining” restaurant.



So from “Berlin” we were off to Copenhagen. Both Nora and I have been to Copenhagen, so for Chris – yet another first. Exactly as I remember her, Copenhagen was just as lovely and the people SO nice. In fact, everywhere we’ve traveled the people have been wonderful. So nice – we try to communicate in their native tongue – I actually did VERY well in Germany – they moved too fast for me though. I was translating coordinator for another group of tourists from another ship – they were most appreciative. My German is TRULY rusty! OK – back to Copenhagen – talk about expensive! This City ain’t cheap. We spent $25.00 on pastries. OUCH! We had some rain, but enjoyed ourselves immensely! We enjoyed the architecture, the people, and the food. Back on Ship we attended an “Evening of Entertainment” – by whose standards??? Well, the entertainment is weak at best…Steve Teague America’s premier “Bass Baritone”. NOT in my book! He coughed through a song – poor guy. We saw him on board ship the other day – without make-up he looks ridden hard and put away wet!



Gdansk Poland is BEAUTIFUL. I never thought I’d say that. We almost didn’t go ashore – so glad we did. Getting to the dock was an event in and of itself. We came about mid bay and were towed in backwards by a tug boat – too funny. They got us to dock perfectly. We had our stewardess write a note for us (she’s Polish) so we could get to the Town Center via cab. She also asked him to come back for us – which he did. The City was demolished by the Allies – we saw one image which showed the ruins after WWII. They rebuilt in the manner of the 15^th Century and Hanseatic Times. So glad they did. Hitler really wanted Gdansk , because of the working Port – well……



The Amber was spectacular! We bought 2 pieces – simple and inexpensive - pendants. I was able to get her to give us a deal for both pieces. Hey, if ya don’t ask, you don’t get! We sat at a café in the City Square and drank a beer – it was hot, humid and that beer was the best beer I’ve ever consumed (not including Guinness). We were so impressed with Gdansk.



Last night we played shuffleboard, I use the term loosely. We had a ball. We watched some teenagers trying to fly a kite aboard ship. We hoped they would get it aloft – not much luck. They had never flown a kite before (what’s wrong with that picture)! What kind of childhood is that? We’ve met more people from San Francisco. Wow, there ARE a lot of us on this ship!



So – that’s it for tonight. The sun has set and I’m done writing. Love to all from Chris and me.



The Friends of Dorothy is a reference to a "meeting" here on board ship. We asked the Cruise Director (should I say HUNKY Cruise Director) what is meant - well...he turned pink and mentioned that there is a group of "people who like the same gender who have a meeting every now and again". He couldn't say LGBT people - we're trying to figure him out!




Sunday, August 24, 2008
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9:15 pm – Gulf of Finland; on our way to TALLIN, Estonia



A fond Adieu to St. Petersburg – the Paris of the north – no question!



There are so many things to say about St. Petersburg :
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">It was destroyed by the Nazi’s <li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Restored, it is beautiful <li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Hermitage…… <li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Catherine’s Palace – AMAZING…and what a Black Widow!!!!! She was one tough customer. <li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Peterhoff – WOW! <li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">The History is engaging. <li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Russian infrastructure has NOT changed with the end of the Soviet era! <li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">OK, those stacking Doll things – ENOUGH! They even have them with Bart Simpson! <li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Ya gotta pay to pee almost everywhere…March Fong Eu would be PISSED; obscure reference – she was the one who eliminated “pay toilets” in the early ‘80’s in California.<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Entrepreneurship….can go too far!!!! <li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">Crass commercialism Russian Style makes Madison Avenue seem tame.




Our arrival in St. Petersburg was truly wonderful – a long ride from the Baltic through a channel up the Neva almost to the Winter Palace. We docked at the English Embankment; quite close to the center of town. Very convenient if we had been allowed to leave the ship on our own. We choose NOT to get the “Unlimited Visa” from the Russian Federation – they wanted to know what we studied in College!!! AND, it cost over $100. Our tours were wonderful – but the crowds…geesh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Our first day, Friday was a highlights tour of the city. We went to the Cathedral of St. Peter & Paul – Russian Orthodox; where the Tsars are buried. The cathedral is located inside Peter’s Fortress. Our driver had to bribe the guard to let us in – the more things change, the more they remain the same. We were there on Russian Flag Day. We saw a rehearsal of the events of the day – quite interesting. Got some interesting shots: marching color guard, band, balloons – you know it’s the same everywhere you go – nationalism! We were NOT allowed to wander off on our own. Our “visa” was the Tour Ticket – we had to be with a tour guide at ALL TIMES.



That evening we went to a performance of a Russian Ballet – Kirov it was NOT! More like the first year students at SF Ballet!!! We saw Swan Lake – the music was well worth the experience – the jester fell in the 1^st act, and in the 3^rd act he was going backwards and clobbered another dancer in the head! There wasn’t a straight line throughout the Ballet. The Prince barely danced, he did a lot of “prancing” and when he landed it sounded like a herd of elephants. The swan princess was wonderful as was the black “swan”. We still had a great time – just to go to a Ballet in Russia. I mean – we were in RUSSIA !!! Growing up, who thought we’d ever get the chance?!



Day two was wonderful. We started at the Hermitage – the former Winter Palace. Such a beautiful place; we spent 3.5 hours inside the Museum – hardly enough. We had to negotiate to see the Impressionists, and even then we had 15 minutes. I can tell you the Picasso collection is simply unbelievable. I was thrilled!!



Our evening’s entertainment was An Evening with the Tsars! We went to Catherine’s palace in Pushkin. WOW! I mean WOW! Mom – you would have been in heaven; we toasted you at our Champagne reception with “Catherine”. Quite “cheesy” I must say – but a wonderful experience. The Amber Room was spectacular; and because we were there at night, we got to take pictures, not allowed during the day!!!! The “court” danced for us, the music was relaxing and the champagne – YUK; still we drank it! The best part of the evening was yet to come….



So, dinner. Can we talk! All I can say is that Chris has another side; a side which I have hardly seen in our 8 years together (that long?!). It is on tape, and WILL make it to You Tube!!!!!!! Without this proof, I doubt if anyone would have believed me. Unfortunately for Nora she missed it….a trip to the Ladies – a trip she will forever regret!



Dinner was around 8:30 – 9:00; we’d had “high tea” on board ship (before 5pm ) and champagne at the reception. So, our stomachs were “empty”. The vodka began to flow. Our appetizers began to appear. The Vodka flowed some more. I can tell you, in ALL honesty – Chris had at least 3 shots before I had finished one! I married a lush. I had to catch up!!! Chris and Inga (from Holland) became best friends. By the end of the evening they were in a bit of a competition for who would drink the most shots… I think our table tied at 8; and NO hangover today. Yes – we were the PARTY TABLE!!! Led by Chris and Inga!



The best part, was when Chris & Inga got up to entertain the room. Chris played an instrument and danced around the stage, Inga pranced around the stage. THEN they got Chris up to partner dance with the woman leading the show (which was Russian Folk songs and dancing). It was HYSTERICAL. His dancing was caught on tape and just too cute. He was having a wonderful time laughing, dancing and letting loose – which is NOT easy for him. I was so happy he let go. Even he remarked “what the hell, I’m having the best time”.



On Sunday morning we were up early for a trip to Peterhoff; the summer palace on the Gulf of Finland – the gardens were patterned after Versailles. We had intermittent showers – so pictures – well – one does what one must. We spent a good amount of time in the palace and a wonderful walk through the gardens. After our trek, we headed back to the ship for a quick lunch and back onto the bus for a tour of the Cathedrals of St. Petersburg. By the end of the day we were EXHAUSTED – but in a good way.



I had to put this note on hold until Tuesday, August 26, 2008 . We are now in Stockholm . The weather is BEAUTIFUL. It is now 10:30 in the morning, we docked about 8am . I’ve been to the gym, had breakfast, and am on the computer. Got up early to catch the trek up to Stockholm – WOW; the multiple islands, the summer homes, the views – quite nice.



I missed a day….



Yesterday we were in Tallin, Estonia. Mere words can’t convey the charm of this city. Tallin is another Hanseatic town from the 12^th century. The city is now composed of two sections – old town and new town. Old town was built on the side of a mountain with cobble stone streets and narrow passage ways – which are traversed by cars. We saw a car backing out of its driveway – it literally had inches to spare – way too close for my comfort.



We walked ALL day long. Did some shopping wandered the streets took pictures and returned to the ship worn out….again, in a good way.



Chris and I were talking this morning. It feels as though we’ve been gone forever, and yet it also feels like we just left. I am in NO way ready to come home! I know for a fact I inherited my wanderlust from Mom. If we were to stay on board ship for a while, that would suit me just fine. I would like a bigger bathroom though!!



We’re meeting Nora for lunch at 11:30 before we head out to see Stockholm . We have tonight on board ship and then are in town for a few more days. We’ll be home on Saturday. This will be the last email.



This trip has been one of THE most amazing experiences of my brief (50 is the new 30) life. I HIGHLY recommend this holiday for each and every one of you. The Baltic is full of history and the most charming people – well…the Russians don’t smile – ever! We’re meeting new people on board ship every day – even after 2 weeks.



Be talking to you all soon. This has been a pleasure and SO much easier than post cards.





We're back in the USA.



The trip was spectacular. We had so many wonderful experiences and met some wonderful people. Met a lotta shits as well - but what the hell!!!



Stockholm is a great city, just loved everything about it. One of its charms - the outdoor cafe's and bars come complete with blankets!! YUP - it got REALLY cool on Thursday evening (ok - KOLD) and we saw people wrapped up in blankets...too cool. Beats those space heaters. Can you imagine a blanket here in SF - they'd be stolen in a minute.



When we were passing through the Archepelago to get to Stockholm the sun was brilliant in the sky and warm and sunny. By the time I finished the previous email and got back on deck (in my shorts) I FROZE! The sky was white with clouds, it became quite cool and looked like rain - yes..weather changed just that fast our entire time in Sweden. Kinda made it hard to plan a wardrobe and accessorize! Thursday am Chris was in shorts for breakfast in the hotel. After brushing his teeth he was in long pants with a sweatshirt. Just that fast!!



We spent 3 days seeing as much of Stockholm as possible - but the highlight was... MAMMA MIA. We saw the musical in Stockholm (geographically appropriate don't you think?). Nora hadn't seen it before - Chris & I had just seen the movie prior to the trip - and we saw the musical live here in SF. What an experience. We were in the Globe Theater (Not THAT one) - it was built as a hockey arena. Well, ok! Anyway we were surprised to see vendors selling earplugs (10 SEK) outside the arena. OK - whatever...then we got inside and the Orchestra began...guess turning 50 changes you...GEESH - SO LOUD!!! But excellent. The sound was pristine perfect - just LOUD! We were on risers in the arena - they had "cut" the interior space in half, so the stage was at the mid line of the arena. We had GREAT seats. The crowd was on their feet (and I thought the place was gonna collapse). The hometown crowd had a ball. Everything was in English. We LOVED IT!!!!



Did you know Stockholm was made up of 14 Islands? We spent time exploring each and every one of them - or tried to!



We went to the Ice Bar - and forgot the camera! SH*T!!!!!!!! Loved it! Found out there was one in London - Who knew? Another reason to go back to London. The bar is made out of ice as are the "glasses". Admission is 138 SEK, and you get a drink (divide by 6). We loved it. My shoes kept sticking to the floor. The seats are ice blocks covered in fur. Some of the fur was rather mushed into the ice, but you were covered in a parka with gloves on, so it made no difference. Everyone must experience an Ice Bar at least once in their life.



We spent as much time exploring and travelling over the water as possible. OK the Swedes are tall, blonde and GORGEOUS. No surprises there.



So we left for the airport at 7am Stockholm time (9 hours ahead of SF) Friday am. The airport is amazingly quiet and beautiful. Real hardwood floors!!!! We were scheduled to leave at 10:15 am to arrive home at 3:30 pm (SF time). Not so fast... Evidently there was a leaky "O" ring on the wing (hmm....). The upshot - not enough fuel on the jet, because the vaporlock was compromised; AND the plane would have leaked fuel...on the wing, near the engine.... Not a pretty picture! We waited 3 hours for them to fix the problem and they did. So much for our connection in Chicago!



We were up for 26 hours when we finally got home. I slept for 1 hour. Exhausted doesn't even begin to describe how I felt last night. But we got home and everything is fine.



I hope you have enjoyed these travel updates as much as I have enjoyed writing them. What a wonderful way to stay in touch. Pictures will be downloaded to the computer soon. We're doing laundry and chatting with loved ones as I write this.



We send our love to each and every one of you and hope you all take a trip like this soon. The Baltic was gorgeous!



Love to you all,



Jim & Chirs


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