Reims Cathedral

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I had to make a separate post for the Cathedral when I realized how many photos I had to share. I love history. I love cathedrals. I love detailed old art and stonework. This place had it all. You can see the Cathedral from all over the city in some way.

The church was originally founded in the 5th century, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. About 70 years later, King Clovis I of the Franks was baptized here in 490AD by Saint Remigus. King Louis the Pious was crowned here in 816 and soon after began the construction of a larger church more befitting of such occasions as it became the traditional site to crown the Kings of France. The current cathedral was begun in about 1208 with various additions throughout the centuries, including reconstruction after a 16th century fire and a hurricane. It was also used as a storage barn during the French Revolution. During World War I, it took many direct hits and was very damaged. Over the last century, restoration has taken place on various portions, including the stained glass windows which were mostly destroyed during WWI. Due to France's strict laws on the separation of church and state, the state owns the building while the Catholic church leases it.

There are 2,302 sculpted figures and animals, most of which are located on the exterior. Many of these have had to be restored, especially following the damage from the destruction of WWI and just general age.

Western Facade

I am a morning person, so I woke early on Saturday, and after visiting the market, I walked to the Cathedral, which opens at 7:30am. You can visit for free, but donations are accepted; I added some euros obtaining a pamphlet and at the end of my tour. The walk to the Cathedral, which is under repairs (of course), is lovely and I got to see it right at sunrise. Outside of the church, there are a couple of main areas, and you enter through the west facade. There are three portals here, with sculptures displaying key stories of the bible for illiterate people.

Since the church is devoted to the Virgin Mary, many of the sculptures depict her, including the depiction above the gable. The Last Judgement is on the south portal and the Crucifixion on the north portal, including the smiling Angel with Mary. I am unsure what all the statues mean; it was interesting to see the main figures were essentially standing on the backs of other figures - not sure what that means. Many figures seemed to still be damaged as you could see their bodies, but their heads were missing. It was cool to see Mary talking to her cousin Elizabeth and her again with the Smiling Angel. There are also 56 sculptures that make up the gallery of kings above the western facade, with Clovis I in the center and between his queen, future saint Clotilde, and Saint Remigus, who had baptized Clovis here.

Interior

From the southern portal on the western facade, you can enter the church. I was here soon after it opened so there it was relatively empty. I paid a few euros to pick up a little brochure which pointed out key locations to check out. A few people came in behind me and were talking pretty loud so I changed my plan of exploration to get away from them. I made my way towards the alter where a mass was taking place with a small group of people. I did not want to intrude, but the singing echoing in the cathedral was beautiful. There are small chapels near the choir, one of which houses a small statue of Joan of Arc.

Going back to the western entrance, you can see the beautiful rose window located above and flanked by dozens of sculpted figures. The Wall of Sculptures. Biblical persons and stories are depicted on this wall. The nave is very high (38m?) and designed as four-part rib vaults, which brings the load to the pillars and to the flying buttresses outside. On the north side of the transept, you can see the organ and the 14th century clock. The North transept also has a large rose window which depicts the creation. However, in the south transept, the monk Dom Perignon is celebrated, due to the wine / champagne industry in the region. Most of the stained glass windows are modern, due to WWI damage, with a mix of old and new glass, but with modern designers.

For me, the nerd, my favorite part was seeing the likely spot that Clovis I was baptized by Saint Remi right in the middle of the nave. I found it and sat to listen to the mass in progress (well far from me), while also noting some of the detailed features surrounding and tall windows above me. It was extremely peaceful.

North Facade

I made another small donation before leaving and then exploring the north facade. Seeing the tall towers and flying buttresses above me below the blue sky was amazing. But the sculpted portals of on the north side appeared even more detailed; I believe this place has been fully restored, while the west is still in progress. Looking at the north side, the right portal is dedicated to the virgin Mary, the central portal to Christian saints, and the left to the Last Judgement, which has some disturbing scenes of the bad being delivered to hell. Really, the detail in the sculptures was so cool. The detail on the central portal in particular was quite intricate to help you identify the individual saints.

Then I just took some more photos and I was a little sad to leave this place. It was lovely. We walked by it about two hours later and it was getting crowded and later at around 4pm, it was super crowded! But seemed like a lively atmosphere. So, I recommend to come early if you want peace.

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