Quick stop at Epernay

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My last day, I decided that while I was here I would do a day trip to Epernay, kind of the center of the Champagne houses. So, after a quick breakfast with my friends, I bid them adieu and got on my train. After two switches, I had finally arrived in Epernay. I had absolutely no plan here, so I just kind of followed the crowd a bit. I walked through a garden just outside the train station and emerged onto Avenue de Champagne.

My first stop was to visit the Museum in the Chateau du Perrier. The chateau was built in the 1850's, but was used during both world wars as first an infirmary then headquarters. It has two accessory buildings which were the caretakers quarters and stables, and now house the ticket office / cellar entrance and the cafe, respectively. The staff were very friendly and I was able to get a locker to store my backpack before entering the museum. It is a beautiful building. The first floor is mainly a bit of history about the house itself (which was of minimal interest), but also had a room that clearly shows the geological history of the area (which was of maximum interest). You then walk up an impressive staircase and start the mid floor tour with your audio guide. The bathroom is kind of tucked away into the staircase, but it was large and clean - very cool.

The first room housed some really cool souvenirs from far off lands that the owner had brought back - things like a desk from Vietnam (?). The next couple of rooms house some of the items that are associated with the region, such as the poster for Ruinart and the champagne barrel artwork we saw at Pommery. You could see all the posters associated with the champagne houses. Then you walk into a larger room which delves a little more into the economics of the region, particularly the process of making the champagne. From workers in the field, depictions of the crayeres beneath the ground, to the different bottle sizes, it was well informed. There are also various examples of some of the tools or equipment they had used over time. Then you go up to the top floor, which has just gorgeous ceilings. Here is more of the archaeology of the area - I loved the little depictions of what homesteads or villages looked like in various eras. It was something I have not really seen before but gives you a good visual. There were other artefacts sorted by age, so very well done.

Finally you go all the way down to the cellars beneath the main house and walk through, emerging into the ticket office. Quite interesting. I grabbed my pack and started my walk down the street. I had no appointments and during midday, many of the houses seem to close, I guess for lunch or something. There were a few that were open that I noted; I was not starving, but they looked lively, just pricey. I walked along Avenue de Champagne further from town and tried to go to one large winery, but it appeared to be closed as well.

I soon found a cute little boutique organic winery, called Chateau Elodie, across from one of the main wineries in the area, Mercier. It was pretty empty, but had a tasting menu. This was a selection of three wines by theme, with the Champagnes bearing names, so I found them easier to remember. I chose the one with Cuvee Pierre, Cuvee Paul, and Cuvee Rose. They were good but a bit full taste, especially the rose. The menu included history of this Champagne house, which dates back 300 years and this particular winery has been women run for 85 years. The girl who was serving was very sweet and after a bit it was just me, so we chatted for a while. It was pleasant.

I realized I actually had two additional hours before my train left, so I decided to find another winery to taste. This brought me to Atelier 1834 - Champagne Boizel. This was back towards town and seemed like a big, established house that was not too crazy busy or well known. Another friendly tasting girl. This time I had two tastes that were more to my liking. I realized I was getting a bit tipsy, having not eaten since our breakfast. But I enjoyed the afternoon sitting outside in the gorgeous weather and just relaxing.

Soon, I headed slowly back towards the train station, enjoying the architecture and the big tethered balloon in the distance that looked over the town. I am not sure if I would come back on my own, but it was definitely a fun experience. You could easily spend quite a bit of money here! I took my train back, got the train to the airport, and finally got something to eat in the lounge before my flight home. C'est la vie.

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Comments

[cabochick]

I was just in France too but I never left Paris. So now I want to go back and experience places like Epernay. Thank you for your informative blog and lovely pictures!

[lexispence10]

Thank you!
Yeah, it is hard because there is a lot to see and do in Paris. Last time I went to Paris, I visited the small town of Soissons, so I had a little idea of how to explore around a bit. Next time in France though, I want to go somewhere completely new!