Downtown Prague

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Today was a sunny day with occasional clouds floating across the sky ... sunny but cold and windy. At breakfast we met Elke. Elke is the sole librarian at a seminary in Berlin, Germany. “I have 80,000 volumes,” she said, “and have about 30,000 entered on the computer. I really need a volunteer who understands German to help me.”

Nancy suggested she get in touch with a Mennonite group as there are many Mennonites who understand German and could help her. Later at the reception center, as we were leaving to go downtown to sightsee, we met a woman, Eileen, who has just arrived to attend the librarians conference. Nancy introduced Elke to Eileen and told her of Elke’s problem. “She should get in touch with a Mennonite group” Eileen said. “There are many Mennonites that understand German.

Eileen is from a Mennonite seminary from the mid-west in the United States. She also was heading to downtown Prague to spend the day as a tourist.

“Would you like to join us?” I ask.
“I have my day planned. But thank you for inviting me,” she replied.

The four of us caught the bus from Jeneralka to the subway stop, Dejvice. Dejvice is the last stop on the Prague Green line. We boarded the subway and rode together to Malostanska where Nancy, Elke and I got off.

Our first stop was the Czech tourist office. The office is small but has lots of useful informatin for the tourist, some free and for some there is a charge. Elke wanted to visit the St. Vitus Cathedral. St. Vitus is a large cathedral sitting high above the Valtava River and downtow Prague. The large Royal Palace, the metaphorical and historical throne of Czech lands, stands just behind the cathedral. Actually the palace seems to wrap around three sides of the cathedral. The appearance of the palace is the result of
rennovations made by Maria Theresa several centuries ago.

“Find out if we can ride a tram up to the castle area,” Nancy requested.

I ask the young man working behind the information desk if trams run to the palace area.

“Yes,” he replied. He reached behind him, picked up and opened a map. “Here we are,” he said. “Catch either bus 22 or 23 outside our building and it will take you there.”

I looked at the map and saw it is an excellent map of the city, giving the route numbers for busses and trams as well as the very good subway system. There are a variety of public transportation tickets available ranging from being good for one hour after being activated up to annual passes. The one hour pass is good for 90 minutes on Saturday and Sunday. All tickets and passes are good for travel on all public transports and any transfer the traveler may need to use. I bought a copy of the map.

We caught a number 22 tram and rode up the large hill to the palace and St. Vitus Cathedral area. I misunderstood the map and we got off the tram one stop too soon, so our walk was a bit longer then necessary. Oh well ..........

We are far enought north that even during the middle hours of the day we cast long shadows as we walked along. “What great light to take pictures in,” I thought. When we entered the St. Vitus Cathedral I discovered a benefit of a low sun, the quality of the light coming through the stained glass windows was outstanding, creating a beautiful glow in the windows and the interior of the cathedral. The light from the high, clear windows of the cathedral crossed the width of the building and were reflected from the opposite wall, creating a beautiful glow to the cathedral’s interior.

There was one more advantage to the low winter sun. In the St. Vitus Cathedral is Wenceslas Chapel. This chapel stands where Prince Wenceslas built the first St. Vitus rotnda and contains the tomb of the patron saint of Bohemia. Last June when Nancy and I visited this cathedral the room was very dark as the sun did not reflect throughout the room. Now, in January, the room was quite bright, lite by the low winter sun reflecting throughout the interior of this famous room. In the room is a frescoe of Christ’s Passion that is surrounded by 1,300 semi-precious stones. The room had been a dissapointment to me in June, but now in January was a delight.

I bought a permit that allowed me to take pictures inside the cathedral. I wondered if anyone every checked to see if a person taking a picture had such a permit. Let me assure you they do for as I was taking a picture of one widow voice beside me ask, “Do you have a permit to take pictures?” I showed him my permit and after thanking me he went on his way.

Finally we exited the cathedral and made our way down the hill to the Mala Strana, the Little Quarter, and then across the Charles Bridge into the rabbit warren of streets of Stare Mesto, Old Town Prague. Old Town was a boom town in the 14th century. Drawing on our memories from last June we surprisingly successfully made our way to the Old Town Astronomical Clock. The clock, built centuries ago, not only tells time, but shows the movement of the planets around the earth, yes around the earth, and the sun and moon through the signs of the zodiac. We were told that when the clockbuilder finished his work the city fathers blinded him as they feared he would build a similiar, or even a more beautiful one for another city. It seems that being a highly skilled craftsman was dangerous centuries past.

Our timing was good as we only had to wait five minutes to see the clock’s hourly performance. Two doors open at the top of the clock and the disciples pass by, a skeleton rings a bell reminding people that death is the fate of all.

By now we were becoming tired and we returned to IBTS. Thus ended a good day.

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