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Published: December 1st 2007
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Nov 28 to Nov 30
"Ahoj" from Praha (Prague), Czech Republic.
Arrived in this beautiful "City of Spires" to a good hotel with crisp linen. This makes us, City Gals that we are, very happy.
Since we have both been to Prague before, instead of re-visiting the famous sights of the Prague Castle, the Charles Bridge, St. Vitus Cathedral, and the Old Town area, etc., we decide to strike out on our own to enjoy this charming and civilized city.
We love wandering along the cobblestone laneways, and meandering through the hidden courtyards of this compact medieval centre.
The brightly coloured and very ornately decorated buildings lend a fairy tale quality to this city of 2 million.
We concentrate our visit on the old Jewish ghetto area. Even though we have both seen it, we are anxious to return.
Jews have been living and thriving in Prague and the surrounding area since the 9th century. Despite setbacks as well as triumphs, the population of the Jewish town rose from about 3,000 in the early 17th century to 11,500 in the late 17th century, making Prague one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe at that
time. Self government allowed Rabbinic courts to resolve religious and family disputes.
A unique feature of the Jewish Town Hall from 1764, is the still operating "backwards-running" clock in Hebrew letters and the dial that turns from right to left.
The educated and cultured citizens of Jewish Prague had survived many high and low points in their history of over 11 centuries here. After the Nazi occupation the population of over 45,000 Jews was deported to Terezin and other concentration camps. Later the communist regime left no place for any returning Jews . Today a population of 1,000 Jews live in Prague. The ghetto area which has been restored survives as a glorious glimpse into this vibrant but ultimately lost community. It remains physically fairly intact because Hitler decided to make this ghetto a macabre museum to house artifacts of an eradicated Jewish race he expected to destroy. The homes and synagogues were used to store stolen Jewish property. Some of these items remain and are exhibited in the Jewish Museum here today.
It was a sombre , but important revisit .
Leaving the ghetto, we wandered along Paris street, where alongside all the high end shops
are outdoor market stalls selling foodstuffs, wooden toys (M.E. got lots ), as well as scarves, gloves, and all manner of goods----(more pashminas too). We'll now have to plan on opening up our own bazaar, but don't think we'll remember the provenance of any goods.
Tonight was the first cultural event we've attended in a month. We've not had time to see newspapers, theatre, ballet, TV or film. (mind you, there has been quite a lot of good local folklore ). So it was a real treat and a grand finale to attend the opulently decorated State Opera House in Prague to see a performance of Verdi's "Nabucco".
The custom here is to arrive early for the Opera and enjoy a glass of champagne. Very civilized. We loved the pomp and splendour of the opera and enjoyed the Nabucco story, (interestingly a triumph of the Jews in true "Esther-like" fashion). Suprisingly, and to our obvious delight, the overhead surtitles were not only in Czech, but also in English.
We definitely are winding down and thinking westward and of our return journey. We like the way we travel, gaining a few hours each stop. (Fulfills Lindsay's fantasy of having
a few 26-hour days each week). We are now only 7 hours ahead of you.
So we say "Sbohem" (good bye) in Czech. We do hate to leave Prague, but hope to return.
We'll soon have more pictures to add to this blog, but we must depart now for our last stop. When next we find internet service, we'll download/upload some more.
Off now to Reykjavik, Iceland, as we move a little closer to home.
We miss Harvey and Michael and all our wonderful kids, grandkids, family and friends. (MaryEllen also wants to mention that she is missing her masseuse, hairdresser and trainer----a lot)
Love Hugs and Kisses
Lindsay and MaryEllen
xxxoooo
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