In De-Nile


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Africa » Egypt » Upper Egypt » Luxor
November 28th 2007
Published: November 30th 2007
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Nov 25 to Nov 27

In DE-NILE

"Marhaba" (Hello) from Luxor, Egypt.
Leaving Africa took almost as long as our arrival, but after waiting (a definite plus there, as you may remember from our last blog) we were finally allowed to begin our flight to Luxor.
On our flight from Nairobi to Luxor, we again cross the Equator and our very cute pilot Johann celebrates in his usual way with a slight mid-air "bump", followed by champagne toast. What a way to travel....it will be hard to go back to regular flights after being so spoiled this way.
We arrive at our hotel, which is situated at the base of the Nile to a beautiful sunset view of the river from our rooms. An al fresco dinner is served on the hotel’s pontoon overlooking the Nile.

Here's our report on an exciting and hectic visit to the antiquities of Luxor and Cairo.

Heroditus the ancient scholar called Egypt "the gift of the Nile", (referring to the flooding of the river which makes the land around it so fertile). It certainly is a beautiul green belt in this otherwise arid land.
The Nile River, the longest in the world actually flows from south to north, emptying into the Mediterranean Sea. Of Egypt’s population (75 million), 500,000 are in Luxor and 20 million live in Cairo.
Our base for 2 incredibly full and hectic days was Luxor, which means “palace”. The Greeks called it Thebes and it is from the name Luxor that we derive the words “luxury”, “deluxe” and “luxe”.

We visited the magnificent Temples of Karnak (can’t help but think “Here’s Johnny”). Karnak is the largest temple in the world. It took 2000 years to build and was started in 1200 BCE. We also visited Luxor Temple, the Valley of the Kings, the Colossi of Memnon and Queen Hatshetsup’s remarkable 3-storied burial shrine. Remarkably most of these sites are in the centre of the city, which grew around them.

Egypt is home to one third of U.N.E.S.C.O.’s recognized preserved sites, so you can imagine the breakneck pace we kept in order to see everything.
Importantly, the east and west sides of the river Nile served different purposes. In the east, where the sun rises, Temples for worshipping the sun God ‘Amun Ra’ were erected. On the more isolated and quieter west bank, where the sun sets Pharaohs and noblemen were laid to rest in the Valley of the Kings. We were able to enter the tombs of many Pharaohs, including that of Tutenkhamen’s.

The glory of Egyptian civilization lasted from 3100 BCE to 332 BCE, when it ended with the conquest of Alexander the Great.

Our first morning began at 5:30 a.m. with a hot air balloon ride over the antiquities of the Valley of the Kings. What a remarkably peaceful ride into the west bank where the sun sets over the ancient Pharaohs. Here are the elaborate tombs of Ramses I and 11, King Tut, Queen Hatshetsup and the giant statues of the Colossi of Memnon.
All were viewed from our floating perch some 1700 feet above the ground. We take off and land in a poor farmer’s field, watching the crops of corn and sugar cane being harvested by donkeys with carts and lots of children. Few children in this area attend school, since it is not provided by the government. (those who do are in a private school).
The Burka makes a fashion statement in the back streets of Luxor.
After the balloon ride and a quick breakfast,
At Karnac TempleAt Karnac TempleAt Karnac Temple

We're really there
we spent the morning visiting the Karnac and Luxor Temples described above, stopped for a luncheon sail down the Nile on a felucca, and then spent the rest of the afternoon at the Valley of the Kings. (getting out of breath just describing all the activities of this 18 hr day.)
It was a very rare privilege to be one of the first tourists to see the “Real Deal”, the actual unwrapped mummified body of King Tutenkhamen, the boy king who died at 18 yrs of age. This treasure has only been on display for the past 3 weeks. The other incredibly thrilling aspect was seeing the interiors of the tombs, with the original art and hieroglyphics (to aid the dead in crossing over to the other side), remarkably preserved.
After this fast paced and mind boggling day of sightseeing, we were treated to an Arabian Feast, complete with delicious mid eastern food, an authentic Whirling Dervish, a Belly Dancer, and an Arabian Show on Amira Island, across the Nile.

The entire World Tour has been done with utmost speed and efficiency, but the next day, Tues, Nov. 27, must surely set a new record for “speed sightseeing”.
Here we go: imagine a Mack Sennett comedy with speeded up film. ---
Another wake up call at 5:30, and early breakfast before a short flight to Cairo. (Interesting fact: when flying in Egypt, all liquor in aircraft bars must be sealed, therefore no champagne with O.J. this am).

From the airport in Cairo, we drive through this noisy, dirty city of 20 million people, to the Great Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, which lie in the suburban area .
The great Pyramid covers 13 acres of land. Built by Cheops over a period of 20 years by 100,000 labourers, it is an awesome sight to see the first glimpse.
Our guide insists that slave labour was not used--- that farmers, in homage to their king, did all work voluntarily, during the 4 months of the year when fields lie fallow.
This guide also asserts that no servants were buried with their masters in the tombs. History is rather subjective.
Nonetheless, Heroditus documents that 2.3 million stones were used in the construction of the great pyramid and that each stone weighed 2 and a half tons. Theories of ramps and pulleys explain the construction of these unbelievable architectural feats. The 4th wall of the pyramid is especially difficult to fathom.
The dry climate here and the plateau locations have served as excellent preservatives for these treasures.
Each successive Pharaoh, or god (as many were considered) tried to make his or her mark on history by building something bigger and better than their predecessors. Some things just never change.

With our very tight times schedule, we spent 30 minutes at the Great Pyramid which is less time than it takes to circle the base. It apparently took 1,000 years for the Egyptians to perfect the final design of the pyramids and it is from these failures that we learn the secrets. The first perfect attempt was in 2600 BCE. There are 115 pyramids in the world. The Great Pyramid at Giza is the only “Wonder of the Ancient World” that is still standing today. (pretty solid builders!!!)
Back in the buses. Drive around the pyramid to the Sphinx.
We spend 40 minutes admiring the colossal Sphinx, the Greek word meaning Living Image. Back in the buses and back to the plane.

Great photo ops here. Lots of reasons to return, as well.

So, as
View from the balloonView from the balloonView from the balloon

..of the Valley of the Kings
we literally breeze in and out of Cairo, we say “Ma’al-Salama” .
We must say goodbye to sun, sea, warm weather (and all the animals).

Next stop, the very civilized and cultural city of Praha .(Prague)

Love and Hugs , Missing you . Can’t wait to see you.

Lindsay and MaryEllen








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M.E. Belly dancing!M.E. Belly dancing!
M.E. Belly dancing!

She was better than the pro!
The colossi of MemnonThe colossi of Memnon
The colossi of Memnon

A most memorable sight of the huge stone statues Kids take note, the stone children sit patiently at the feet.
5 am and on the Boat on the Nile5 am and on the Boat on the Nile
5 am and on the Boat on the Nile

..to take us to the bus , to take us to the Balloon Ride over Luxor..(all before breakfast)
The incredible shot The incredible shot
The incredible shot

Postcard view of the Sphinx and the Great Pyramid in Cairo
at Tut's tomb entranceat Tut's tomb entrance
at Tut's tomb entrance

This was a highlight of the Valley of the Kings
Drawing on walls inside the tombsDrawing on walls inside the tombs
Drawing on walls inside the tombs

Osiris (god of death) preparing Pharaoh for afterlife
Ass you like itAss you like it
Ass you like it

Ben, our Travel Guild leader decided to get on his ass.


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