Dubrovnik - Wall-to-wall sunshine!


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Europe » Croatia » Dalmatia » Dubrovnik
May 11th 2012
Published: June 26th 2017
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Istambul to Dubrovnik


The only piece of drama (and there is always one to report!!) that happened during our 'sea day' was in the evening. After returning to our cabin at around 5pm, an envelope was waiting for us on our bed. It is traditional that on the evening of the last gala dinner, club members get invited to the Captain's cocktail. There was 1 envelope. There was 1 invite inside. It was addressed to Roisin Ann Hodgson!!

‘Its only a cocktail party!' I kept repeating to my self. This didn't stop Roisin waving the invitation in front of my nose throughout dinner.

Approaching the L'Amestista lounge I could see a red rope strewn across the doorway flanked by 2 of the biggest ‘meat heads' MSC must have on their books. Roisin handed her invite to one of these gorillas and walked though. I quickly followed saying:Mine must still be in the post, mate!!' It worked. I must have either stunned them in to shock with the audacity of it or they thought ‘Huh! What's new?…a scouser bunking in again!!!'

Finally returning to our cabin a few glasses of champagne later, we knew it was getting near the end of the cruise as Rahman, our cabin steward had sculptured an animal from towels in the hope it would sway us to leaving him a tip. Roisin thought it was a dog. I said that it looked more like a sheep. We both decided it could be a sphinx. Sorry Rahman. Since MSC changed their policy and tipping is now classed as a compulsory service charge, I suggest you contact reception and sort it out with them!!

The clocks went back last night. Up at 8am, although having adjusted my alarm clock, Roisin pointed out that I hadn't changed my wristwatch. Blimey! I don't even get up this early for work!!

The TV in the cabin, like all cruise lines, has a channel dedicated to distance, speed temperature, sea state etc.. We have been extremely lucky on this trip. The sea has been not more than sea-state 2 which is somewhere between still and stiller!. It is 7am and the outside temperature is showing at 70F (20C).

Yesterday was spent crossing the Ionian Sea, navigating along the splendid islands of Andros and Kea. As we reached the Peloponese we sailed around Cape Malea. 2,500 years ago, Homer wrote his poem, the Odyssey of Ulysses journey. These famous wanderings started in Trioa and finished in Itaca. Right in the centre of these 2 points is Cape Malea, the southernmost part of Greece. It is only recently the whole of the poem has been translated and a faint outline has been traced in the margin of the original manuscripts. It seems to say: ‘Stupid Flanders!!!' Another recently discovered draft gives instruction to: ‘Must kill Flanders. Stupid jerk!!!'

Entering the Ionic sea we sailed up passed Corfu and the Albanian coast toward the medieval city of Dubrovnik on Croatia's Dalmatian coast.

Croatia gained independence from Yugoslavia in 1991. It is this country that gives its name to the cravat. In around the 17th century, woman used to put a ribbon around a man's neck as a sign of fidelity. These then started to be worn by the Croatian soldiers. Word soon spread like wildfire that they're not a very good fighting unit but boy, do they look smart!! Others soon started to copy this practice. Nowadays it is still traditional for cravats to be worn at weddings.

What gives the old town of Dubrovnik it's character and charm are all the buildings built using the same stone and roof tiles, yet they are all unique in their own way. Dubrovnik is a walled city and one of the must-dos when visiting the area is to walk the walls. The whole walk around the wall can take up to 2 hrs to complete. However, there are sections you can dip in and out of. After all, there are only so many photos you can take of rooftops!!!

It was a shuttle bus ride from the cruise terminal to Dubrovnik old town. 15 minutes later we were standing outside Pile Gate, the main gate to the old town.

On entering the City, you are immediately facing down the main backbone called Stradun. Our first impression of the old town is that it was very busy. The temperature was touching 80F (25C). If this is a refreshing spring day, I wouldn't like to be visiting during the height of summer! There is so much to see in this compact city but we chose the Franciscan Monastery Museum as our first stop as it was the nearest tp Pile gate and to get out of the heat!. The monestery contains the oldest working pharmacy in Europe dating back to the 14th century. It was the pharmacy that we really wanted to see with all the medieval potions. Actually, it is amazing how many of these remedies are actually used in today's homeopathy There was also a display of prosthetic limbs. Could this be the world's first pharmaceutical armoury??!!

We carried on down Stradun, past Candle Kingdom. A video for this very establishment had been playing on board the ship for the past 2 days. The signs in the shop windows said, ‘We are the friend of all cruise lines 30%!d(MISSING)iscount.' I'm convinced the video was an attempt at brainwashing!!! Nevertheless, all this wonderful history and we walked in to a candle shop. Why?? There must be some truth in the brainwashing theory though!! The shop wasn't as big as it appeared on the video. It was €15 for a small candle. Greed happened to be their downfall. Roisin must have said the magic phrase that snapped us out of it: ‘Ask yourself this. Would you pay £12 for a candle at Home and Bargain back home?? ‘ I got the point. After all it would be a £12 piece of clutter and something else to dust! We managed to wriggle out of the shop and continue on our way.

We reached the end of Stradun, walked through a narrow arched gate and in to the harbour area. A narrow pathway takes you around the side of St. John's Fort. At this point we were stopped by 2 middle aged French people. They were very pleasant and spoke in reasonable English. I knew they were French because after they asked (and I had agreed) to take their photo, they said ‘Merci' As I held the camera up, I said to them in my best ‘Allo, ‘Allo' accent: Zay Fromage!' This obviously doesn't have the same linguistic translation across the channel. I asked her to check the photo, they glanced at the screen, smiled, once again saidMerci' and they were gone, last seen heading toward Candle Kingdom!!!

Keeping an eye on the time, we thought it best to start heading back, via the wall. We walked up St, Dominika Street to the nearest entrance gaining us access to the wall. We both looked up to the people above ascending the stairs. It must be a height of at least 20-30 feet. It was hard work. We walked around the North facing side of the wall. At ever juncture on the wall were steps ‘RISING' to the next level. These were uneven in places but every set of steps had a sturdy handrail. I felt like I was living in one of those optical illusions where steps are joined together to form a square but at every level it looks like you are always ascending!! An added handicap to deal with was the heat. Little or no shade made progress slow. All this was soon forgotten, as the views were truly breath taking. There may be only so many photos you can take of rooftops but it still doesn't stop you taking them!! Each view came with its own depth of field. Looking south gave you the only true roof-toppy view! Other views took in an element of the Adriatic and the archipelago beyond. Another vista gave a perspective of the headland along the Dalmatian Coast. From yet another angle, the hills surrounding Dubrovnik gave a whole new sense of perspective as to how strategic this outpost was in the supremacy and control of this part of the Adriatic.

We are now at the stage were everything we do is for the last time on this trip. Dubrovnik was our last port of call. Dining in the restaurant was our last dinner. Afterwards, the walk around the shops and stalls was our last chance to buy stuff we didn't really want!! Wi-fi is only available in public areas. On previous trips, I have quite happily sat in a lounge and typed away but then I start getting distracted by people watching so now, by obtaining an Ethernet cable on board I can blog away to my hearts content in the comfort (and safety) of my own cabin!! I was using the wi-fi for the last time on this trip. In fact, I was cut off and still had 3 ½ minutes remaining!!

I returned the Ethernet cable to reception in order that they cancelled my €15 deposit whilst Roisin stayed on the deck above. When I returned to Portofino deck 6, Roisin had bumped in to our old friend Alexey from Israel who had the salt fetish!! He was desperate to sell not only the salt from the Dead Sea, no less, but a package that included special nail block, oil for your cuticles, hand cream and a useful little nail file. This came to ONLY (his words not mine) €71. However, they were doing a last day special offer of 2 for 1…

…Enter Hodgson (Chris)

‘2 for 1, eh?? So… that's…what?? The same as 1 for half price?!! I asked.
‘No, buy one get one free'
Yes, but if I were to buy two, normally this would cost be €142?'
Alexey was quick to retort, ‘Correct. But this special offer is buy one and get a second one absolutely free.'
‘Let me explain Alexey, May I call you that?'
Ooh, I could be irritating sometimes!! I continued. ‘We have no use for a second one so if you give us 1 for €35.50, you still have 1 left over. Sell this for €35.50 and there you have it. You have sold 2 and received €71. The same as if you were going to give me 2 for 1!!!

Alexey, hesitated as if he was going to break in to a Vicky Pollard 'Yeh but, no, but' routine. Slightly baffled and lost for words., he turned to Roisin holding out the package as say,Madam?'

‘Roisin said, ‘We're on the way to the Theatre but we may be back later.' The operative word here is ‘may'. Alexey knew in his heart of hearts, he would never see us again!!!

This was the last show. It was billed as the ‘Best of MSC'. Roisin asked if that means all the artists will be performing tonight. I suggested that we'll now know, for sure, who the crap acts were as they won't have a slot on tonight's show.

It was like a super heroes ‘justice league'. They were all there: ‘Bendy girl', ‘Giant Hoop Woman', ‘Balance on a head guy' (formally known as jumping bean boy). They all had extra ordinary talents. My alter ego is ‘Graph boy' (for reason's I won't go in to!!) I was in two minds as to ask to join their alliance and finally receive super hero status!

‘And what's your super power, young man??'
Well, sir. I can create a mean pie chart!!'


Nah! Somehow it just doesn't compete. At this point in time, I was just happy to sit back and enjoy our ‘last' show and the rest of our last night aboard the MSC Magnifica.


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12th May 2012

Chris and Roisin, thanks for another entertaining trip. Enjoy your last night on board.

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