The Balkans - Albania Apr/May 2024

---

Wednesday 24th April 2024- Got the bus with no trouble, well apart from having to pay a bus station tax of 2 euros per person, as well as give the driver of the coach 2 euros each for our cases!! Beautiful scenery, just as well it was sunny today! After Budva, we took the road we should have taken yesterday to Cetinje and onto Podgorica. Stopped for 10mins toilet break and then took the E762 to the Border crossing. No hold-ups this time, and apart from having to get off the bus 2x (We could have walked as it was only about 100 metres!!) we were into Albania in about half an hour!! Carried on, past another part of Shkodra Lake, viewing the mountains that still had snow on them, to Shkoder. Saw the castle that we would be visiting in two days, then carried on the E762.

First impressions of Albania was that they had had a lot of rain recently as there was evidence of flooding in the fields! Also, there was a lot of chickens around and cows were kept singly and tethered by a rope!!They don’t call themselves Albanians but Shqiptare and their country as Shqiperia, and consider themselves as descendants of the ancient Illyrians from the 8th Century BC.

Drove down on the E762 to a cafe, near Lac, where we stopped for 25minutes. Turned left at Fushe-Kruke( probably because there was heavy traffic on the main road?!) and drove past Tirana International Airport. Joined the SH2 and drove ( very heavy traffic!!) albeit slowly, into the Bus Station. Walked to our hotel Dora City ( It was only a 10 minute walk - would have taken a taxi much longer considering the traffic!)

Went out for something to eat and ended up in a fancy Fish Restaurant. Couldn’t make them understand what we wanted, it was a case of ‘ wait and see what turned up‘ Well, we had a fish of spaghetti with a sauce and shellfish in it and then a tomato pasta with prawns, washed down with a glass of wine each!! Dreading what the bill was....but it only came to about £26.00!! Our hotel receptionist thought it was really expensive but after Montenegro, it didn’t seem too.bad!

Thursday 25th April 2024– It absolutely hammered down in the night but woke up to cloud and sun!! A full day of the capital City Tirana planned!! Left the hotel about 9.00ish and walked the 15mins down to Skanderbeg Square, admiring the multi coloured zebra crossings, and after calling into a Vodafone shop to sort out wifi, ie buy a sim card!! Skanderbeg Square is the main plaza in Tirana and is surrounded by 19th Century Eth'em Bey Mosque, clock tower built in 1822 as well as Natural History Museum, International Hotel, National Library , City Hall, Palace of Culture <National Opera & Ballet Theatre and Skanderbeg Monument. This monument replaced a statue of Joseph Stalin, in1968, and honours a nobleman who once resisted the Ottamon invasion. Noticed a lot of people standing outside the Opera House, wandered over, and discovered it was a free walking tour -yay!! ( not strictly free as you need to give them about 5 euros tip each at the end of the tour!!) Split up into three groups – is spanish, Italian + english!

Our guide was called Bailey and was an American teacher who fell in love with Albania, and moved here!! She was excellent, filling is in on all the history of Albania and pointing out various landmarks, such as Skanderbeg riding a horse ( compared to Alexander the great!!)Next we walked to bunk art 2 where she explained how they tortured people here, then on to Castle Street with its many bars and restaurants, before coming to the Cathedral. Because Tirana was left with a legacy of communist grey concrete buildings they didn’t know what to do with – some they painted in bright colours and some were just knocked down, so all the buildings are about 20 years old, the Cathedral being no exception!! They also claimed that Mother Teresa was Albanian whereas she was born in North Macedonia?! Next onto The Pyramid, originally built as a museum dedicated to the communist dictator Enver Hoxha, it then went into disrepair, then they repaired it and painted it, and have let some of the units out and turned some into coffee shops!! Chris walked up the steps – 114 steps in total – I declined and sat at the bottom!!

Next we visited a real bunker ( unlikeBunk Art 2 which was purpose built outside of a government building and then it was tried to be destroyed, by the Albanians I think, because they didnt like it there!!) which had been used as a toilet ( Ididn’t go in!!) and EnverHoxha's house! After he died in 1995, his widow stayed on in the house until the end of communism, when she was evicted. Apparently, EnverHoxha built 162,00 bunkers to protect the population against nuclear attack, as he believed that the country was surrounded by enemies who wanted to attack Albania!! Regular drills were held to try and control the people.Then finished the tour with the huge, modern, Greek orthodox church!

Had a look at the Old Mosque and also the clocktower, that Chris was going to climb, but they were just closing!! Then had a quick lunch at the Old Bazaar , that was quite new!! The lunch was actually my favourite yet! Traditional cheese and peppercorn lamb (looked like someone had been sick but it was actually really nice!!) and fried mushrooms on a bed of lettuce.!

After lunch went to bunk- art 2. I though it was an art gallery now but no, it was photos of the National Police and stories, tv interviews, cell rooms, lists of all the dead prisoners – between 1944 –1991, 6000 Albanians were executed, and their bodies never returned to their families for burial. Between 1949- 1953 Brush and Americans tried repeatedly to enter Albania to bring down the Hoxha regime. It is stated that between 1945 & 1946, it is estimated that there were between 30,000-34,000 political prisoners but there were no statistics kept. Sigurimi was also a word that was used often. As far as I understood it, neighbours turned against neighbours and the Communist Party said that’s Sigurimi‘ is the loving weapon of the party and protected their interests and people and the socialist state against internal and external enemies. People were paid by the state to spy on each other, everywhere –the theatre, out for a meal etc. One maid even had a microphone hidden in her broom handle. It was quite horrifying to think what these Albanians had been through.

Anyway, feeling quite subdued, we wanders around a beautiful mosque that was completely shut off – maybe they hadn’t quitefinished building it yet? Who knows!!

After having our main meal on the Castle area walked back to the Hotel.

Friday 26th April 2024 - It rained ago early am but it had stopped by 9.00am! The first day of our trip!! We got picked up by minibus at 8.00am and met the rest of the group - 10 of us altogether!! An easy day, by comparison, despite the early start!! Our first stop was Lezhe, where we saw the ancient city ofLissos that dates back to the 4thcentury and the ruins of St Nicholas Cathedral.Didn’t go into the Cathedral ( as it was a museum!!) but walked to the river and took a fine picture of the bridge and mosque at the top of the hill!Next we went to RozafaCastle at Shkodra.It was enormous with fantastic views of both rivers and Shkodra Lake! Had a good wander around( Chris went down an escape route!!) while Gesi( outguide!!) have us all the facts and figures!!

Then we had a wander around Shkoder, viewing the Cathedral, the main shopping street with its many bars, and a mosque, where they were all coming out from their prayers!! We then got taken to the lakeside for 1 ½ hours break, where we just strolled along the promenade and then went into the village to view the mosque. An friendly dog tried to make friends with us – he didn’t have his ear tagged either, so he either belonged to someone or he was a stray! Dogs with a tag on their ear means that the council looks after them!

Got picked up at 4.00pm for the 2hour drive back to Tirana.

Saturday 27th April 2024 Picked up at 9.00pm ( late!!) and our first stop was Kruje( after travelling past Fushe-Kruje where George Bush visited once upon a time, there is a statue,a square named after him and many more things including a bakery!!) After learning about the history, we walked through the cobbled streets with its shops to Kruje Castle with wonderful views of the valley. While the rest of our group went into the museum, me and Chris had 45minutes to explore the ruined Castle and gardens. First viewed the derelict mosque built in 1480 and then walked to TanushTopiaj Square dedicated to TanushTopiaj who was an Albanian nobleman and participated in the founding of the league of Lezha, the military alliance led by Skanderbeg! Walked up to the 15th C church. I think it must have been damaged in recent earthquake as it was all taped up, and you weren’t allowed in! Met up with the rest of the group where we had 45mins or so to go shopping! Then onto Durres.

This was a major Port on the silk road at one time and is still a major port for importing and exporting goods! There is also a Car Ferry to Bari in Italy. We had 1 ½ hours free time so walked the whole length of the promenade including the rope pier and the steps. Took pictures of various statues! Met up with the group again and walked to the ruined amphitheatre. Had a good wander around it and Gesi showed us ,that despite some renovation and excavation in 1966,there were houses built on top of it! There was also a ruined church there with mosaics in – apparently the only one of its kind! Route marched ( Ithink he was running late!!) through the modern town to get the mini-busback to Tirana, which should have taken an hour but, because of the traffic, took at least 1 ½ hours!



Sunday 28th April 2024– today we checked out of Hotel Doro City and made our way out of Tirana on the A3 (built 10 years ago!) towards Elbasan. Turned into the SH3 then the SH7 and finally the SH58 to Belsh where we stopped for 20 minutes, by the lake. Carried on the smaller roads, with fantastic views of the snow covered mountains, past a lot of derelict oil Derrik’s( left over from the Communist era!) past Kajan, and Vlashuk until we reached the SH91 and the SH72 to Berat.Gesi told stories most of the way – about his grandfather and father, who were both affected by Communismas Albaniaremained a Communist country until 1991.If was quite horrific how they brainwashed everyone even to the point of saying that Coca Cola cans were full of poison!. When they eventually got to Greece they were horrified to see people drinking cans of ‘ poison' !! Stopped to take photos of an old Soviet airfield and a Russian fighter migplane.

Out first stop in Berat, was the Castle! Busy or what!! It was a Sunday so I reckon everyone made a day trip there!; It was chaotic with some cars getting stuck in the rutted cobbles on the road that rose up quite quickly! Went to the Old Cathedral of the Assumption of St Mary that also hours the OnufriMuseum and then out to a viewpoint at the other end of the Castle!! Checked into our hotel ( Hotel Republika) and then had 3 hours free time! Went to a supermarket, the Cathedral and Mosque, and then just sat in the park watching two Albanian men getting stressed over a chess game, to the point that one of the men threw a tantrum and knocked over all the chess pieces!! It was soooo hot and sunny to do anything else!!!

Gesi was meeting is all at 4.45 and we walked to an old mosque and other religious buildings, that made up the old part of Berat. We didn’t go in as some but wanted to charge us 100 Lek each and the guide thought it was free!! Walked to an old gate that used to be the entrance to a villa owned by Pashait. Anyway, it had been destroyed and all that was left was a huge empty square and a hamam.

Walked across the river then, and took photos of ‘ 1000 ' eyes This is because all the houses have windows that face the sun all day! Walked down to an old bridge and crossed to the other side for a walk back.

Had a drink with GesI, Shirley, Selpee, Brenda and Micky before eating a meze of Greek food.

Monday 29th April 2024– From Berat the minibus drove north on the SH72 and then drove southward on the SH4 to our first stop at Monastiri Ardenices! Six monks live here. with no contact from the outside world, just a visit from their families 1 x a month. After this 1/2 hr stop, we then drove to Apollonia Archaeogical Park where we had a 1 1/2 hour stop and an excellent wander around. Its basically a mini Pompei with a Forum and a street of shops. Only 6% of the hill that it's on,has currently been excavated!! Long way to go then!!

Drove past the salt flats with its huge mountains of salt, before arriving at our hotel (Hotel Kraal) that turned out to be the height of luxury, even providing us with a dryer on the balcony for our washing, a beach and sea view and a house martins nest. complete with a pair of house martins!! Walked down to the beach bar for something to eat and to watch the sunset!!



Tuesday - 30th April 2024

Left Vlore at 9.00am and drove down the SH8, past the submarine mooring that they used incase they were invaded, stunning views past Orikum and then turned inland towards the Llogara National Park climbing steadily upwards!!! Loads of pine trees and a twisty road eventually brought us to the top. Stopped at the top for photos of the coast and the road where we had to go, and a smiley bunker and then started the slow climb down to the coast again. They are currently building a tunnel which will save people driving over the top and take an hour off their journeys!!

Stopped for ½ hour at Himare and had a walk along the beach..( after those twisty roads we deserved it!!) Then drive on down the SH8 ,past the Castle of Porto Palermo, up and cotton the twisty roads, until we reached Sarande. Thought we were stopping here, but no, we drove on the SH81 to Ksamil ( pronounced Samil!!) where we stopped for lunch for nearly 2 hours!! Walked to a supermarket for mosquito spray and then just wandered around the small coves, each one different, but with stunningly beautiful turquoise water! One cove had a diving platform that was also a hand that you could sit on!!

Anyway, back to the coach for our trip to Butrint National Archaeogical Park. Butrint had the ancient city name of Buthrotum and was an important port and trading centre in the main Adriatic waterway. Most of the excavations were done by Luigi Ugolini who worked for nearly 10 years in Butrint (1928 – 1939) and he discovered a city that grew From the 8th Century BC to the 6th century, with construction happening in each period of rule. Walked the whole site( didn’t bother with the museum!!) which was a pleasant walk by the lake!

Back to Sarande for our overnight stay ( Hotel Havana)

Wednesday 1st May 2024

Out last day with the group! Left Sarande at 9.00am and then took the SH99 to our first stop –13thcentury, Monastery of St. Nicholas!! I really enjoyed this stop because the Monastery ( inside anyhow!) Hadnt been renovated in any way at all, so all the old markings on the floor had been left and the alter was quite derelict! It was good though! At one time the Monastery had been fortified and there was evidence of it, as it was enclosed by a wall.

Onwards on the SH99until we hit serpentinas again, sending our way up the mountain until we reached the stop for The Blue Eye. Walked just over a km to get to theatrical spring with its clear blue water. Loads of damselflys and butterflies about and caught the end of some what we thought was Albanian music and dancing( turned out that it was greek!!) Has a wander about before walking backto the coach.

We then went down the pass with its stunning views, turned left at the bottom of the road, and ran along the valley, mountains each side, to Gjrokaster where we had 2hrs free time. Met Gesi at 2.45 and climbed, through the Old Bazaar to the Castle – which I have to say was definitely woth it. even with the climb up the steps on slippery cobbled stones! We were confronted with a long tunnel with canons either side. We walked the length of the corridor, while Gesi explained about canons, tanks and an old airplane that was on display! He also said that the Castle was used only for defence and also a prison during the communist era! Plenty of stories up at the castle and we walked across, what would have been houses and was now just a large open space, to the clock tower entrance to the Castle. There was a spiral walkway down, all uneven and placed at different widths, as an extra defence!

Followed Gesi, who said he had more to show us, and ended up.......by his old school where he attended from the age of 3 – 14yrs!!

Had a drink and people watched before eating, then wandered around a bit more as it was getting dusk. Saw four stray dogs playing together after they had been sleeping all day I the sun!!(Hotel Cagupi)

Thursday 2nd May 2024 – Dropped at the bus station in the rain, at 9.30am to get the 10.00am bus back to Tirana!! It was a smallish minivan with about 16 seats and definitely no toilet! However, it didn’t matter too much as we were entertained by the bus driver and conductor, as well as all the locals!! When the bus was full, the conductor just produced small stools and put them down the middle!! Took the SH4, past the Aoos(greek) Vjosa (albanian!) river, and the adjoining tributaries, that was oh so blue. Amazing scenery and the whole river has been made a conservationarea and a National Park.Stopped for 20 mins just after Bishqethem at KompleskiJoti ( a petrol station!) for people to use the toilet! I didn’t go, but Chris went and confirmed they were pretty disgusting!!

Anyway, we carried on to Durres, then took the bypass, and the SH2 to reach Tirana Bus Station by about 1.30pm. A short taxi ride brought us back to the Hotel Doro City. As It was only about 2.15pm we walked into Skandersbeg square and got the no 11 bus to go to Bunk Art1. I think we got off at the wrong bus-stop because by the time we had walked and found the entrance through a tunnel ( It was also a road!!) It was shut !! And it was only 3.40pm!!!

Undeterred we walked to find the Cable Car station! It looked pretty black over the mountains so we were in two minds, whether to go up or not!! We did – It was the.longest cable car ride I had ever been on!! Past little villages, over gorges, past a few cave houses and the finally , we went into cloud and couldn’t see anything!! Got out and looked at the ‘ atmospheric ‘ view!! That is we could see nothing at all!! Had a little wander around, as the cloud started to lift and went back to the view point, where we got some good pics! It was still a little bit hazy though!

Went back down in the Cable Car ( I was just glad to be warm in the sun again!!) and had a strolL around the market area where we decided to eat!! Tomorrow we are hoping to be in North Macedonia as a rental car is being dropped at the hotel at 9.30am!

Friday 3rdMay 2024

Woke up at 5.00am with another terrific thunderstorm. ( there was also one last night just as we were going to bed!!) Anyway, the car was dropped off promptly at 9.30am but small problem. He wanted 48euros for us to take the car to North Macedonia, but we were sure that Albanian Travel dmc had already paid it. Anyway, it turned out it had been paid and a refund of 48 euros was given!!

We left the car hire person, and Tirana in a bit of a rush necessarily had just started to rain.....and heavier rain....then hailstones......and to complete...a couple of loud claps of thunder.....and then10 mins later the sun was out and it was too hot!! That was the weather all day!!

It was fairly easy to get out of Tirana – turn right at the roundabout after Negus and then right again into the SH3/A3/E852 to Elbasan. The road got more twisty and we went through a spectacular gorge - very dramatic, there were loads of work men straightening the road by diverting the river? Don’t know!! Carried on through the gorge – had to look twice at this place name – HOTOLISHT!! Went under a disused (?) railway viaduct a couple of times and stopped by the lake at Prrenjas!! We then climbed upwards again ( spectacular views as always!!) until we reached the top and then dropped down, with our first view of Lake Ohrid and for lunch at our last Albanian town – Lin!!

Wonderful little village nestled on a cove by the lake. Had fish soup for lunch that seemed to be full of round balls, different sizes, so I can only imagine that they were the roe or something. ( I learnt later that, yes it was fish roe and a speciality of Lake Orhid!! )Then we drive though tiny streets, upwards, parked on the green and walked to the 6th century Basilica!! Amazing!! They only excavated it in 1967 and as well as the Basilica, found it covered in mosaic flooring ( there is a guy up there that keeps it covered up with polythene when it’s raining , but will take the cover off for you to view it!!) Drove back down and walked through the Old village. They reckon that there has been a settlement around this area for 8500 years making it the oldest in Europe!! It was beautiful –will be totally done up and ruined in about 30 years but hey ho – that’s progress for you!!

Decided as the weather was still unsettled, we would cross into North Macedonia!

---