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Published: October 25th 2015
Colon streets
Difficult conditionsAfter a fairly ordinary breakfast of scrambled eggs and delicious, flavourful bacon, we set off for
Portobelo, a ride of about 1 ½ hours. We saw more of Colon, mainly shabby, deteriorated French colonial buildings and sad cinder-block houses with maybe one or two bedrooms. Separated from the city by a large industrial zone – the buildings of trade and shipping – there were nicer neighbourhoods with larger cinder-block houses, as seen over much of the Caribbean. Much further out were some palatial houses and yards, interspersed with poorer houses and dwellings. This semi-rural area extended all the way to the turn-off from the main highway to Portobelo. Along this road were stretches of forests, small villages and a few palatial dwellings. In the distance we could see heavy clouds and rain drenching the hills of the rainforest. Panama discourages agriculture and preserves most of its land as rainforest to ensure water for the canal. The policy is to import food, so there were few chickens, a scattering of thin cows, and fruit trees only in the yards.
Portobelo is a run-down town that is nevertheless a World Heritage site because of its important fortress. The Fort San Jeronimo is
San Jeronimo
from the days of ships attacking grassed and maintained. The stone walls that remain are about half-height. Quite a few of the remaining gun barrels are placed in the embrasures. While we walked around taking pictures, a bunch of young kids lazily offered stone and sparkly bracelets for one dollar. The schools are on vacation and they might have been earning pocket money. They were more interested in playing with each other.
Near the fort is a large church with a “
Black Christ”, subject of many legends according to Pedro. Annually on October 21 the town is overwhelmed by pilgrims from all over Panama. Today there were perhaps a dozen people worshipping.
Across the way is the original
Customs House (1667), which somewhat resembles the Customs House in Calgary – primarily size and solid architecture for a rectangular stone building. Portobelo has had a difficult history of conquest, aggravated by an earthquake in 1880. In modern times it has been under restoration since 1997, and there is much work still to be done. The main floor is divided about in half. One side has artifacts through 3 ½ centuries of history; the other side has a video and modern displays about historical events. From the bare
second floor there is a good view of the bay that was so militarily valuable in the days of conquest and piracy. The bay has a fairly narrow entrance that could be defended by this fortress and two others.
About ten minutes down the road, we stopped at the San Sebastian Battery, another of these defenses. Even more cannon barrels were lined up. Both the fortresses were narrow – perhaps 150 feet wide – possibly because the land is fairly narrow and probably was subject to land slips, as we have seen along the roads. They probably cleared only what was needed.
We drove the hour and a half back to the hotel for a late lunch, after which Joyce and I both snoozed. With our next bus trip at 4:00, we walking quickly to the grocery store in the tourist mall attached to the hotel. We “needed” some beer ($2.47 for a six pack) and water ($1.03 for 2 litres) to take with us to the resort, which is tomorrow’s destination. (The grocery store is called “99”, a large chain owned by the current president of Panama.)
Then it was time for our drive to view
Gatun Locks
Control of all traffic the
Gatun locks and Gatun Lake, not far away. We saw work crews clearing trees, brush and grass for the construction of the new locks. Pedro said that the animals of the area were captured and relocated elsewhere. Heavy clouds hung over the scene, which made for dramatic pictures.
On the way back, our driver went through town to drive along the sea view. There is no doubt that there is a lot of poverty because property is so run-down. Even so, people are reasonably dressed and clothes are clean. Near to the sea and the hotel are some nicer houses and a few very good, well-fenced properties.
After a swim (me) and beer, Joyce and I had dinner, followed by a special surprise evening entertainment. University students (and one young woman of 12 years) presented about eight folkloric dances, complete with full costumes. There were five couples, all lively and colourful. At the end, Pedro acknowledged each person and the accompanying parent – recognizing that parents are key to this kind of activity. They also presented two people on the tour with birthday cakes. And, I had my photo taken with the dancers, as did others.
Now
Folkloric dance
Marvellous costumes draw us in we are all packed because our bags have to be ready for pickup at 6:45!
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Isabel Gibson
non-member comment
Colourful buses
I laughed when I saw the picture of the bus. It reminded me of those in Guatemala, most of which also had religious sayings on them: "The Lord is my hope" - that sort of thing. Not the sort of thing to inspire confidence in passengers, or not in this passenger, at any rate. But we could learn from their abandoned approach to colour, that's for sure, especially during our dreary winter months.