Blogs from Rio San Juan Region, Nicaragua, Central America Caribbean - page 2

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Don’t get me wrong, I love travelling but sometimes you just have those days. And the smallest thing can tip you off – for me the other day it was my towel. Yes, my towel. This may seem petty for all you at home but my towel is small. I cant wrap my towel around myself. And washes are few and far between, and because of the material its not just a small towel anymore. It’s a small smelly towel. I hate my towel. Unpacking and re-packing. After nearly 6 months, I still have not mastered the art of being able to pack what I think I may want at the top of my bag. Every time we get into somewhere it seems the only thing I want is right at the bottom and I have ... read more


“The great difference between voyages rests not with the ships, but with the people you meet on them” Amelia E Barr, Writer & Journalist I have arrived in Costa Rica, the penultimate country on this Central American odyssey and it’s hot. My god, it is hot. But not a comfortable dry heat like northern Nicaragua where it felt like a warm hairdryer was constantly blowing in your face because of the Pacific winds. Nope. Here in La Fortuna in the shadow of Volcan Arenal it’s hot and humid and wet. No matter how many showers a day you have, you feel like your body is coated in a fine layer of sweat at all times. It drips off you even if you are standing still – the backs of your knees, under your chest, the back ... read more


Sitting on the bus to Managua, we decided we didn't actually want to go to Managua, so got off and headed to the beach...because we haven't had enough of beaches yet. We arrived in Aberystwyth and followed the locals lead, grabbed a beer and watched the sun, setting behind the boats. Next couple of days involved indulging in yoga, superfoods and a cheap massage which left our neck and shoulders in pain for days afterwards - ideal for heavy rucksacks. Spent a night on a turtle tour stargazing as there wasnt a turtle to be found. Lovely to be on a beach at night in a nature reserve guarded by gunmen. To see some Nicaraguan culture we went out to watch traditional dancing, which in Nicaragua is a dance involving costumes and masks of an elderly ... read more
Sunset


We got to El Castillo, on the San Juan river about midway between the atlantic and lake Nicaragua yesterday around 3. We checked into a decent place for like $4. The town was very strange. First of all, it was about 60% hotels/hostels but we only saw a few other tourists. We were the only tourists at our hostel. People were friendly in general but we also noticed pretty quick that the young people there seemed particularly unapproachable and would not respond when we greeted them...i don´t know why. We booked 2 tours. Our frist tour was for that night to catch some nocturnal camians (an alligator-like creature except smaller) they were about a meter in length. We on board a wide canoe with an outboard motor at about 7pm with our guide and a couple ... read more


We made it to San Carlos, Nica this morning at 5am. We were beat from the ferry and decided to get a cheapo room for a few hours. After that we had a teriffic traditional Nicaraguan breakfast: Rice & beans, eggs, tortillas, cheese & a HUGH avacado. They just don´t have avacado like that in the US. We left on the ferry last night at around 7pm & it was pretty interesting. We rented some hammock chairs to sleep on the deck of the boat. Overall we got some sleep and the ride wasnt too bad. That was until about 2 hours out from San Carlos, maybe 2am. We were in the middle of the water when all of a sudden we were engulfed in a massive cloud of insects. They were everywhere... it felt apocolypitic ... read more


As northern Nicaragua is dominated by the highlands so the south of the country centres around Lago de Nicaragua, the second largest body of fresh water in Latin America after Lake Titicaca. Separated by a narrow strip of land from the pacific and connected to the Caribbean by the mighty 199km Rio San Juan, historically the lake was of great strategic importance to the colonial powers; Nelson commented on his 1780 expedition that "once we took possession of , we would cut in two pieces the Spanish America". Before the Panama Canal, this waterway was the principal crossing point across the Americas, in fact it was the obvious location to build a larger crossing & the Nicaraguans may yet build a transithmian canal. Founded in 1524, Granada typifies the rich history of the region. Perched on ... read more
Masaya Market
Masaya Market
Monkey Business


I’m back in El Castillo, sitting in a hammock on the balcony of the charming Casa de Huésped Chinandegano, with the rapids that almost defeated a young Nelson in 1780 off to my right. I feel a little guilty for not going back to the pretty Nena Lodge that did me so well last weekend, but this place is right on the river, the French-Argentinean couple I’ve run into from time to time this week went out of their way to recommend it to me, and I was already going to come back here for dinner tonight, with the mouth-watering memory of its “camarones en salsa”… Did I really think this morning that the San Juan del Norte-San Carlos “rápido” could stop here and I would be able to resist the temptation of Yamil’s “bom-bom” coffee ... read more
downriver from the fortress
main street, El Castillo
El Castillo


I stood knee-deep in the water at the edge of the lake, my skirt hitched up as we used to do when attempting handstands in the school playground, rubbing my laundry on the already-soaped ribbed board at one side of the concrete unit. When everything was thoroughly scrubbed, I bent over to rinse the clothes. Having wrung them out, I took them back to dry land and hunkered down under the small lapa, watching the water and the birds as I waited for my flip-flops to dry in the sun, before I headed back up the hill to my washing line and a rare date with a book and a hammock. This is island life. This is the Archipiélago de Solentiname. Where there is no traffic; there are no roads – only, at most, paved pathways ... read more
cormorant drying his wings
howler monkey, Isla El Padre
laundry Solentiname-style


Sitting here in my unexpectedly pretty room in the Hospedaje Familiar in San Juan del Norte, I feel a very long way away from anywhere.* It’s not the remotest place on the planet, I’ll admit, and I’ve probably been to places that took longer to reach, but there’s something about being in a little town on a big continent which is only accessible by inland waterway – and even then only if you have half a day to devote to it, always supposing that you’ve already reached the head of the river, itself fairly remote by any standard – that somehow exaggerates the remoteness: a sense of “so near, yet so far” perhaps. The only way out of here is the way I came yesterday, by boat; and there are only two directions, six hours by ... read more
a tranquil morning in San Juan del Norte
a brief glimpse of the Caribbean coast
early morning mist on the Río San Juan


Hi from Nicaragua my friends! A long trip, another long trip with the boat, hahahaha, I think that you expect the word "bus" but this time is boat! It's quite choking to arrive in San Carlos, I got the same feeling when I first arrived to Ciudad del Leste in Paraguay. Both are pretty the same, chaotic, a lot of traffic with people trying to sell you something. A lot of hi-fi made in …. who knows :-) To get to Boca de Sabalos, I took the boat and stopped on the way to sleep one night in a lodge. The place was quite nice actually and made easy to get to the fortress on the next day but when I arrived there, the fortress was closed! It’s first of November so they close also on ... read more




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