Blogs from Estelí, Northern Highlands, Nicaragua, Central America Caribbean - page 4

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things i love... The Green Market in Estelí on Friday mornings. It is the best place for breakfast. I had a bag of fruit. A bag of mixed potato-malanga-banana chips with salad and salsa. And two papusas, or little buns filled with fried cheese and chicken that rock my world with salad and salsa. And I bought vegetables for Moncha. Oh, and I had a queso tamale, too. This internet place next to the park and the boy who works here. He is cute and nice and plays good music. Carne asada in the park. Meat in general. Street food. Love it. Miss it. Practically all I survived on in the China. Estelí. It is still my city. Yeah, Somoto is there. But Estelí is where it´s at. Bold Kreative Photography. http://www.facebook.com/photos.php?id=49262634134 Things I don´t love... ... read more


Things that happen here that I forget to mention. Nicaraguans iron every piece of clothing. All the time. Their holey old work shirt. Oh, it´s got creases. Seriously. Women spend hours every night ironing everyone´s clothes from the baby´s shorts to the men´s dress pants to their own shirts to the handkerchiefs that everyone carries all the time. Thus, I am dressed more poorly than the Nicans because I refuse to iron every piece of clothing. Gringos also have the reputation of generally being dirty. Perhaps because we don´t iron. Despite the fact that I shower EVERY MORNING as soon as I get up, usually between 5.30-6.30am, and he damn well knows it, Lenin asks me every day if I´ve bathed. I´ve started acting like I don´t even hear the qustion. Just because it´s an asshole ... read more


Exhausted. Monday went to the Cañon de Somoto with Lenin and the youngest cousin. That was a long day, though definitely an adventure! We went to the top part of the cañon.... or the upper part of the river. Got out of the cab, hiked for a while, came to a fork in the path, chose one at random, and came upon a house. Ended up talking with the old man about the canyon and how many gringos pass by. They offered us food! Fresh tortillas, BLACK beans, and hardboiled eggs. It was awesome. And then he said he would guide us down to the canyon. So we had a guide. Not gonna lie, though, I was frustrated for a good part of the morning. The guide and the boys just wanted to hurry the hell ... read more


Ah, back in Estelí! Left on the 2pm bus out of my community and caught the 3:15 expresso from Somoto to Managua, getting off at Estelí. So I met a guy in the station. A very chele Nican who spoke great English, about my age I suppose. I told him I was a Peace Corps Volunteer and he was like, wow, you guys are famous here. He was friends with the chofer, the driver, and the cobrador, the guy who takes money... and they wouldn´t let me pay! Talk about respect. Made my day! But then Luna upped their prices, PCV or not. So that sucks. But the expresso made me happy :) So! News! I have a new roof! Two days ago, so Tuesday, before I went into Somoto for lab tests, I told my ... read more
Photo 2
buying lumber and strapping it to the truck!
my empty room


So New Year´s has been and gone celebrated in San Pedro la Laguna in Guatemala. It was a night of rum and fireworks, and a scant regard for any kind of health and safety!!! San Pedro itself is another cool little village on Lake Atitlan, not much to do apart from enjoy the scenery and have a drink or 3, but that suiuted us fine. New year itself was a good laugh, we met up with some fellow travelling folk (one of whom was a hippie, Australian musician called Gu, who Ben found himself liking in spite of himself) and went to one of the bars in the town, after much rum ( for the both of us) and a few too many beers new year was ushered in with fireworks set off from a disturbingly ... read more
Ben and Gu
Street Art in Esteli


WTF? I am sitting in the PCV office in Esteli and was just accosted by Jehovas' Witnesses. He was like, "Do you speak English? We are JW -" and that's where I interrupted him and said, "Yeah, I don't need this." And he was like, "You don't need what? God's love?" At which point I said, "Look, this is an office; I am working, have a nice day," and walked away. But what I WANTED to say was, "YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME! GO BACK TO THE STATES!" But I didn't. Because that would be rude. And I'm having a great day and wasn't going to let some proselytizing gringo ruin that. So! I am back in Esteli with my host family after a few glorious days at Playa Roca in Leon. There was lots of ... read more


hi everyone! We have just left Esteli and are now in Managua getting ready for the trip home in the morning. We spent a very interesting 3 days staying in a home up in the mountains of Nicaragua. The people were fantastic as usual but what a way to live. It started with us not wnating to pay $200 US to get to our reserved home call Posada La Perla so we took the chicken bus. It went up and up from essentially sea level to 5,000 feet. We were in an old schol bus made in Missassagua (Blue Bird( AND WE STOPEED EVERY kM. It took almost 2 hrs to climb into the mountains. As it turns out the man we spoke with in Esteli was to be our guide and later we found out ... read more
\new \Years The Burning of Bush
The oven in the main house
Coffee Plantation Experimental


my thoughts are totally disjointed right now, so here goes... a. I am in Estelí with my family here and it is so nice to be back in my big fat fachenta bed in my big clean room without an army of mosquitos swarming outside of a pea-green mosquitero waiting to attack my delicate skin and sweet blood. b. I had roasted awesome pork and rice and salad last night and all I could say was CARNE! VEGETALES! or MEAT! VEGETABLES! Because, while I love rice, and beans, and eggs, and onion and tomatoes, i MISS Moncha´s cooking! c. And on that note, I miss sitting in her kitchen talking to her. I realized last night, as I was enjoying sitting there eating the lovely food and drinking a real fruit refresco, that no one in ... read more


Whilst ensconced in Spanish classes in Esteli we stayed with a family on what was a pseudo homestay. Pseudo in the sense that Ivania, the mother of the household, was quietly building her very own little hotel empire. Consequently, we were joined at our digs by two other foreign characters. Kenny, a rather boring fifty plus save-the-world obsessive from Florida (sorry Kenny you’re a nice guy but one more riveting lunch time exchange over tortillas and gallopinto would be one more far too many). And, Joe (Joseph) a rather interestingly mannered lad from Upstate New York who we first had down as an axe murderer but turned out to be quite a fascinating individual. Ivania and company were certainly more than a little removed from our host family in Sabana Grande. Removed mostly in terms of ... read more
Packing up time


It is quite astonishing how incredibly tiring learning a language is. Just as our early days in Sabana Grande were extremely testing as our brains were thrown into a desperate and incessant neurological search for something to associate this new language with so it could be stored for future application. Four hours of Spanish classes every morning for two weeks gave our minds an Olympic workout of epic proportions. CENAC Spanish School in Esteli was the site of this mental bombardment. At the outset we did wonder how much Esteli’s finest Spanish maestros (sorry, that’s a lie as we just picked the cheapest school with some good reviews) could wedge between our ears in two weeks and we were not to be disappointed. One-on-one classes just don’t give you anywhere to hide. Plus if you did ... read more
Looking down over Esteli




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