Blogs from Barahona, Dominican Republic, Central America Caribbean


Most people know the Dominican Republic as an all-inclusive-destination. You enjoy your time chilling at the beach, swimming in the pool and stuffing your stomach at the buffet. But that's definitly not my style of travelling. Last week I did just the opposite thing when I went Backpacking from Barahona to Pedernales with two friends. We spent 5 days on the road. And what we found were great landscapes, lonely beaches, lots of friendly people and some unforgettable memories. 7$ for a Million Dollar View We started our tour from the city of Barahona in the early morning hours. If you want to get to Pedernales, there's only one road to go. It follows the marvellous coastline south. On the left you've got the Caribean shore, covered with beaches, on the right a lovely green hillside. ... read more
View over the bay of San Rafael
The three of us at Bahía de las Aguilas
Trying to fix a motorbike in the middle of nowhere

I couldn't sleep last night. The power was out, there was no breeze, and in addition to smoke from burning the fields, it seemed that trash was being burned as well. I got up at dawn with allergic black eyes; by an hour or so later I was just swollen. We drove to Juan Dolio, with a stop at a Parador for fried chicken. The hostel, Fior di Loto, is decorated in an Indian motif and the proprietor supports education for girls in India. My room was notable for its continuous electricity and a flush toilet--heaven! I'll write my last entry soon, but want to reflect on the trip more (and look up some birds) before writing.... read more
Fior di Loto

I took a morning walk around the edges of the cane fields, with binoculars and bird book. There were some pretty lizards with blue throats and red vents. I was pleased to see a couple of broad-billed todies, which are very attractive little birds, a green heron, and perhaps smooth-billed anis, as well as others. Men here and there with burros and cows. Nobody else. It was nice to have a short break. Today the workers (but not our volunteer group) spread cement on the raised cinder block perimeter of the court. A guided afternoon walk through the cane itself. Eating half a mango and spotting an Antillean mango, which is a bird. Later, we dedicated the court with only a little speechifying, some cake, and a few games. There was a talent show, but I ... read more
Free-range goats
In the cane
Part of the group

My typical day: Midnight: Power may or may not come on, or go off, so there may or may not be lights or fans. 12:00-4:00 AM: intermittent awakenings from heat, noise, smoke, animal sounds. 4:00-6:00 AM: Increased multiple rooster crowing, goat bleating, dog fighting, cat yowling, and soft pig grunting. Various shouts, clanks, engines. 6:00-6:30 AM: Greater rooster/goat/pig sounds; more human noise. 6:30 AM: Get up, pour bucket of water over head. Return to bed and sit reflectively, or go for a walk. 6:30-7:00 AM: Wake-up call and brush teeth, spitting outside. Dress, collapse mosquito netting. 7:00-7:30 AM: Breakfast: Plantains +? Apply copious sunblock. 7:30 AM-12:30 PM: Work on site. 12:30-1:30 PM: Lunch. 1:30-5:30 PM: Work on site. 5:30-5:45 PM: Bucket shower and change clothes. 5:45 PM-6:30 PM: Dinner. 6:30-~8:30 PM: Free. ~8:30-10:00 PM: De... read more
Getting good with the filth
Even before the court is dry

Courtney (another PCV): "Find the sweet spot between what you love to do, what you're good at, and what the world needs." Because there was no gravel, we couldn't work today. Therefore, we got a guagua (okay, a minibus rental isn't precisely a guagua, but, hey) and spent most of the day at the beach. The water was a beautiful mix of dark blues, turquoises, and teals; pebble shingle; brown pelicans; a river turned into waterfalls and pools before pouring down to meet the surf. Some men set up a table to sell larimar jewelry, a very local and indigenous stone in lovely light blues. A lunch of fried chicken or fish plus tostones (plantain chips) and salad (which I dared to eat a tiny bit of because I was jonesing for a vegetable). Tigres (machos) ... read more
Looking at larimar
The beach
Dancing with children

A cement mixer has been rented. We've laid down a chunk of the court with hand-mixed concrete; this will be faster but more rote. Today I've mostly been dipping water buckets from a big plastic cistern, carrying buckets of concrete, and shoveling sand and gravel. Breakfast was sweet potato, a yucca/plantain mash, and spicy pasta. I added a can of tuna salad later. While I sat on the porch eating, an old man came over and began to talk to me in French. We conversed briefly, then he gestured, took my tuna, and ate it. I gave him the crackers from the packet. He handed back the can and two girls took it and fought for it. Local lunch: Rice cooked with bits of salty fish, maybe sardines, salad, and frijoles negros. I ate a little ... read more
Plenty of gravel to shovel
View across the court

A pretty warm and noisy night, with roosters, goats, and periodic shouting. At about midnight, the power came on, and therefore the fans, but also the bright-enough-to-read-by bathroom fixture. The walls don't reach the ceiling, so the bulb shone directly in my eyes. There doesn't appear to be a switch for this one. One corner of my mosquito net fell down, but I have two corners tied to window louvers and was able to get it taut enough by tucking the edge firmly under the foam mat I'm sleeping on. No mosquitoes in my net; didn't have to step around/on/over sleeping people to use the bathroom. This probably means I'm dehydrated. I moved some supplies into my netting, making it easier to get to them during the day. I couldn't find my watch, so I couldn't ... read more
Los niños at the door
Our escort
A house in the batey

I can't mark quite where Batey Isabela is on this map, because it's hard to locate on the somewhat contradictory online maps. It's about where I've placed the route marker. Bateys are sugar cane plantations, and as a quick look at the DR/Haiti border reveals, many of the people in this region were brought over/came over to harvest. New legislation in the DR has disenfranchised multiple generations of people of Haitian descent, effectively rendering them stateless: Now, intensifying a long and furious debate over their place in this society, the nation’s top court has declared that the children of undocumented Haitian migrants — even those born on Dominican soil decades ago — are no longer entitled to citizenship, throwing into doubt the status of tens of thousands of people here who have never known any other ... read more
Beginning construction
The court on Day 1
Shoveling gravel

I absolutely love my mornings! Starting a routine already each day. But I gotta tell ya. Waking up to the ocean breeze sunny skies and living in paradise will never get old lol! After my morning coffee, internet and ESPN I decided to take a walk in the opposite direction this time. It is clear that some things never change but a few have. Not sure why but there seems to be a lot more topless tourists this year. Dang THAT sucks lol! A popular restuarant burned down just a stones throw away from me. I wonder what kinda of fire response they have. Apparently not quick enough! I went by my old stomping grounds of Danny's Sports Bar. Different owners(again) but a few of the same employees who instantly remembered me lol! Karaoke on Wednesday ... read more
2013 DR Pix 022
2013 DR Pix 023
2013 DR Pix 024

Hola, guys! I want to tell about our journey to the Larimar mines, in the same Barahona region. What is the Larimar stone? This is a kind of semiprecious mineral, was discovered in Dominican Republic years ago. It has bright-blue colour, and people develop it the southwest mountains of Sierra-de-Baoruko (2 km above the sea line). The road is a little bit destroyed, so it's desirable using 4x4 Jeep, 4wheel, or moto-bike to access the place. To know more about the history of dominican larimar visit Larimar Museum in Santo-Domingo. The first time dominicans knew about this stone in 1916, thanks... read more

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