One of the most enticing thing listed in the online "top things to do in Naples", aside from eating awesome pizza, are the the underground tours. There are Roman cisterns turned war bunker, and the foundations of the Roman era city. We do both in the morning. Both tours are in the old town, with its tall apartments towering over narrow cobblestone alleys. We hit upon the trinkets alley along the way and see numerous themes: red pepper ornaments, ornaments with fools in black masks, "calamites" which are miniature cones (simplified cornucopias?) filled with pasta or miniatures of bread, grain, or bingo pieces (presumably for good luck), and depictions of religious themes. As I discover from a vendor, there are three things that are good luck in Naples: red peppers, horseshoes, and a humpback (!). What
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