Venice farther afield

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In an effort to escape the feeling that we are in an adult amusement park I walk into the farther reaches of Cannaregio, known as the original "ghetto". In old times Jews were second class citizens but as merchants and jewelers it was more efficient to have them in the city, but they were relegated to the outskirts. The area was quiet and some facades were crumbling, but it still has charm.

We decide to escape the endless crowded alleys of Venice and make good use of our transport passes with a ferry ride to Burano, known for its hypercolorful colors, and Torcello, home of a basilica also with impressive mosaics. The 30 minute ride passes the floating cemetery and Murano, the island of glass blowers. Apparently the heat necessary to glass blowing was too much of a fire danger so they were isolated on their own island.

The basilica on Torcello is a nice 10 minute walk from the ferry terminal along a new brick path along a canal towards the other side of the island. The complex is made of crumbling brick buildings, and the basilica has impressive golden mosaics and geometric marble flooring much like San Marco but on a smaller scale, as well as skeletal remains.

Back in Venice we wander around San Polo and Santa Croce, visiting a church. It was an impressive space with many paintings and stained glass windows and all the requisite greatness. Perhaps most impressive to us was the monument dedicated to Doge Giovanni Pesaro, a two story facade with presumably him flanked by angels on the top level, held up by 4 African slaves in tattered clothing, watched by two black skeletal figures. The monument was build in the 1600s and for us, sticks out like a pink elephant.

The rest of the day was culinary as I try out a couple recommended gelateries - one daringly has orange and arugula flavored gelato that disappoints. It is sugar water with some orange juice and rind and some arugula. I'm certain a different balance could have been made with better results. Gelaterie San Stae is known for selecting only the best ingredients, and the limon flavor is the most bitingly sour lemon gelato I've ever tasted. We return to Suso after dinner, where I regret not enjoying marscapone caffe one more time, but the pineapple cinnamon is a fantastic surprise.

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