Page 8 of mahadev Travel Blog Posts



Hasankeyf, Southeastern-Anatolia, Turkey 17th June, 2014 “The birds they sing at the break of day Start again I seem to hear them say Don't dwell on what has passed away Or what is yet to be” Leonard Cohen Today I swam in the Tigris river. Refreshing and fast moving. Today wars seem to often revolve around oil. Tomorrow they seem set to revolve around water. The Middle East endures with a multitude of ideological, ethnic, religious and pan-national tensions, conflicts and associations. The politics of water already plays a major role in relations between Iraq, Syria and Turkey. In 1990, Turkey started construction of the Southeastern Anatolia Project (also known as GAP) to dam sections of the Euphrates and Tigris rivers north of the Syrian/Turkey border. Syria and Iraq, otherwise often in dispute themselves, formed an ... read more
Castle citadel
Citadel gate
Caves in Vadi Valley

Middle East » Turkey » Southeastern Anatolia » Mardin June 16th 2014

Mardin, South Eastern Anatolya, Turkey 14th June 2014 “Yesterday is history. Tomorrow is mystery. Today is a gift. That's why its called the present.” Mardin is one of those places that builds expectation as the dolmus I am in climbs the hill to the old city. The distant hill top is adorned with stone ruins and as we get closer to the old city I site the detail in the ornate stonework of the houses. The place, together with Venice and Jerusalem, is claimed to have the best preserved architecture in the world (but I do wonder if that claim is Europe-centric and if it properly considers all the places in India?). It is over 7,000 years old with a rich history, as part of the silk route and the fertile Mesopotamian Plain, and is a ... read more
In the labyrinth
My pokey little room
My kind of eatery


Sanliurfa, Hekim Dede, Turkey 11th June 2014 “Old friends pass away, new friends appear. It is just like the days. An old day passes, a new day arrives. The important thing is to make it meaningful a meaningful friend – or a meaningful day.” The Dalai Lama “It is the soul's duty to be loyal to its own desires. It must abandon itself to its master passion.” Dame Rebecca West Abrahim (Abraham of Old Testament fame) is believed to have been born in a cave in Sanliurfa (known as Urfa) about 4,000 years ago. As legend has it, he gave the local king a very hard time about the local king's worship of idols. The upset king had Abrahim strung up to be slowly roasted on a wood fire. God intervened and turned the fire to ... read more
The cave where Abrahim was born
Washing for prayer
Part of acquarium system (fire to water, wood to fish)


Gaziantep, Southern Anatolia, Turkey June 9th 2014 “Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose...” Janice Joplin This story is just not going to have graphic pictures! This story is a tad embarrasing. But this story is hilarious (my only option is to laugh, else I would cry). I had been itching to try an authentic Hamami (a Turkish bathhouse). Those in Istanbul and Kapadokya were pricey due to the tourists (upwards of 70 lira or about $35). I was not going to pay that price. So finding myself in Gaziantep (known as Antep) and seeing a simple looking hamami in the street, I thought my time had come. I had done no research about what exactly was supposed to happen here, and I suspect my very rough fantasies of steam baths, professional and thorough ... read more
Arıf sitting in reception ready to pounce
The Hamami ceilıng....lie back and think of England


Gaziantep, Southern Anatolia, Turkey June 9th 2014 “Only the truth of who you are, if realized, will set you free.” Eckhart Tolle I had been struggling with 'being' in Turkey after almost a year in India. This was due to a combination of many things, including the relative jump in living expenses. But I think too it was about not feeling at home with the flood of western tourists in Istanbul and Kapadokya (the places I had so far been in other than a stint on a farm). My arrogance leads me to think I can somehow be above 'tourism' and be an authentic 'traveler' and find the 'real' Turkey. Well, I should laugh at myself (and I do). But in any case, I started to travel eastwards on a quest.... to find places and people ... read more
Old cellar renovation
Market scene
Street near fort

Middle East » Turkey » Central Anatolia » Nevşehir June 12th 2014

Goreme, Kapadokya, Turkey June 8th 2014 “Up in the atmosphere, up where the air is clear....” Mary Poppins “The mother of excess is not joy but joylessness” Frederich Nietzsche Kapadokya is now one of the 'musts' on the very well worn tourist route of Turkey. It is indeed a magic place born of fairytales and sci-fi scenarios. The pointed rocks themselves are known as 'fairy chimneys' and they are in abundance in the Goreme National Park. Thankfully UNESCO has done some work here to preserve them and put a stop on further transformation of them into luxury but funky cave hotels. There are enough of those already. Unfortunately nothing was done to limit the other rampant development of hotels in the valley, which now form eyesores that obcsure the natural and historic landscape. But all is ... read more
Faıry Chımney
Goreme street
Balloon madness 6 am

Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Izmit June 7th 2014

Kartepe, Turkey May 2014 "There is no sincerer love than the love of food." George Bernard Shaw "When diet is wrong medicine is of no use. When diet is correct medicine is of no need." Ayurvedic Proverb “Never do to excess, but let moderation be your guide” Marcus Tullius Cicero I found myself in Turkey. Well, it was planned as a place to go in between India visas and it was a country I had always said I wanted to see. But for one reason or another (and more just one particular reason actually, which I won't go into here) I just had no appetite for traveling around alone and I had done with hanging around Istanbul. On a whim, I took myself off to an organic “raw food” farm 2 hours by bus south west ... read more
Zuchini pasta (no flour)
The raw food kitchen crew
Humus dip (sesame and nuts)

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Kullu April 19th 2014

Banjar Valley, Himachal Pradesh April 19th 2014 “Cricket to us was more than play, it was a worship in the summer sun” Edmund Blunden “I tend to think that cricket is the greatest thing that God ever created on earth -certainly greater than sex, although sex isn't too bad either” Harold Pinter In India, the game of cricket is a passion (and as near to a religion on par with Hinduism as you will get - not to discount the fervour for other religions, but Hinduism is by far the largest religion and maybe also the most passionate – maybe). That is not to say that a Buddhist monk (for example) cannot be equally captured by this game (see picture). This is of course a story with a very male-oriented focus. I am talking about male ... read more
Taking it seriously on the Solahnu School yard
A neighbouring village pitch
Cricket as meditation

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Kullu April 1st 2014

Solahnu April 1st 2014 Find a place to call my own And try and fix up Start a brand new day Neil Young, Out on the Weekend Solahnu village (pop 123) sits at 2,800 mts above sea level in Banjar Valley, Kullu District, Himachal Pradesh and is one of hundreds of small villages strung across the lower Himali which are only accessible by walking/climbing track (often goat track). Yes it has electricity and piped water, satellite TV and even sporadic internet (for the few who have computers) but no shops and little flat space as it clings to the mountain side. The plus here is that being so high it receives over 10 hours direct sunlight from Spring to Autumn and a good deal more sunlight than the lower valley in Winter. And so agriculture is ... read more
Cricket on the Solahnu pitch
Father Son bonding in Solahnu
After work leisure in Solahnu

Asia » India » Madhya Pradesh » Orchha March 22nd 2014

Orchha March 16th 2014 “Rivers are roads that walk and carry where you want to go” Blaise Pascal “..To be on your own With no direction home Like a complete unknown Like a rolling stone” Bob Dylan The river Betwa flows lazily through Orchha in Madhya Pradesh, dropping polished stones on its banks. While taking a sunrise bath, I chance upon and pick up a small stone, place it back, pick it up again, feel it feeling me, how it fits so snug and right somehow in my hand, its cool and smooth surface against my skin; and decide that here is the perfect travel companion for making my morning chai. Beb had given me this simple idea while travelling together in Gujarat weeks earlier, but we had not found quite the right rock. It's so ... read more
Spice Rock
Travel Kitchen




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