Sam Brown

londontravellor

Sam Brown

I love travel & trekking, especially in Nepal, and have been fortunate enough to complete several high altitude treks in the Swiss Alps, the Andes and in the Himalayas. So far, in Nepal I've completed the Annapurna Base Camp trek, the Annapurna Circuit trek, and trekked to Everest Base Camp and to the summit of Kala Pattar Next on my list are Gokyo and Langtang treks. Just had a baby so no high altitudes for a while so armchair travelling it is!



Asia » Nepal » Lukla November 14th 2012

After leaving Tengboche we take the steep steps and pathways down through the rhododendron forests knarled curled trunks. The section between Tengboche and Namche seems to be a busy point on the trail and we pass a fair number of other trekkers on the way. I do not envy them the steep uphill and a few trekkers I can see are having problems on the downhill. We arrive at Namche and stay one further night at the the Zamling continuing on to Monjo the following night then back to Lukla. Having seen very little of Lukla on arrival I now had a chance to explore slightly more. It is larger and noisier than the other villages on the trek so I am glad to only be staying one night here, although my accommodation is predictably more ... read more
Ama Dablam
50th Anniversary Stupa for Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas of Everest
Tea break

Asia » Nepal » Tengboche November 13th 2012

Dingboche 4360m - Tengboche 3870m Time taken: 2.5 hours The route leading down from Dingboche is typical beautiful Nepali scenery and we have only seen part of the route before as we have ascended via Pheriche. Much of it is descent, on uneven stone steps which is quite tiring after a while but as we climb down each bend we are rewarded with spectacular views. We reach Tengboche late morning and far from being the freezing, windswept plateau we had encountered on the away up, it is a bright, sunny and mercifully flat town with an enviable backdrop of stunning peaks. The dazzling peak of Ama Dablam at 6812m, is the most beautiful. Ama Dablam means 'mother's necklace' as the unusual shape of the mountain is thought to look like the outstretched arms of a mother ... read more
Beautiful detail Tengboche
Inside Tengboche Monastery
Monastery at Tengboche

Asia » Nepal » Dingboche November 11th 2012

Lobuche 4930m - Dingboche 4360m - Pangboche 3860m Time taken: Lobuche - Dingboche 2 hours Leaving Lobuche early, our plan was to trek back down to Tengboche via Dingboche, on the opposite side of the ridge to Pheriche to give ourselves new views and villages to stay in. Dingboche is a quiet place, considerably less open and windy than Pheriche and we stayed at a lodge called the Sonam Friendship Lodge. This was a great place to stay with a cosy dining hall and good food. Today was the first day of the trek I can say I felt hungry again and I managed a whole plate of roast potatoes with two fried eggs on top. The owners were a Tibetan couple and Suriya told me that the wife is actually married to her husband's two ... read more
On the way to Pangboche
Pangboche
Lunch at Pangboche

Asia » Nepal » Gorak Shep November 10th 2012

Gorak Shep 5160m - Kala Patthar 5545m - Lobuche 4930m Time taken: Gorak Shep - Summit Kala Patthar 4 hours return Gorak Shep - Lobuche 2 hours I meet Suriya early as planned and and we pick our way across the sleeping porters. As the lodge was packed full with people, the owners were not able to serve hot drinks or food at this time. I stuff down a chocolate bar I'd kept in reserve figuring I would need the energy and later i'm so glad I did. I try to have a drink from my Camelbak but the tube has frozen overnight! We leave the lodge glad to see it has stopped snowing and we tentatively walk across the flat, previously sandy area behind the lodge towards the foot of Kala Patthar. This is the ... read more
In front of Everest
Kala Patthar 5545m
A rest at the summit

Asia » Nepal » Gorak Shep November 9th 2012

Lobuche 4930m - Gorak Shep 5160m - Everest Base Camp 5340m - Gorak Shep 5160m Time taken: Lobuche to Gorak Shep 2 hours Gorak Shep to EBC 1 hour 40 mins EBC to Gorak Shep 1 hour 30 mins The trek from Lobuche to Gorak Shep is fairly easy going, taking about two hours and running mostly a gentle incline alongside the Khumbu glacier. Due to the suspected high demand on lodge rooms at Gorak Shep, Azay, our porter is sent out in front to secure rooms for us. When we reach the lodge at 10am, it is packed with trekkers chatting excitedly and having food before the trek to Everest base camp. Our plan is to arrive mid-morning, have a short break then continue on to base camp to arrive there early afternoon. We will ... read more
Almost there...
The trail winds on
Suriya & I at EBC

Asia » Nepal » Pheriche November 8th 2012

Wow, I thought it was cold in Pheriche, last night in Lobuche was something else! I happily have few if any symptoms of altitude sickness perhaps due to the Diamox, however with the advantages come the disadvantages and at 5am i'm making a early trip to the bathroom. As I do I notice the tap, the water in the toilet and in the water barrel were frozen solid! After the usual fight with to get my sleeping bag back in it's bag and pack up this morning I suddenly feel dizzy and weak. Suriya insists on ordering me a garlic soup for breakfast before I can protest and so he's finally got his way. It isn't as bad as I'd imagined and, I must admit does make me feel better. Just to be on the safe ... read more
Amazing skyline
In front of Pumori
Amazing trekking

Asia » Nepal » Pheriche November 7th 2012

Pheriche 4240m - Dughla 4620m - Lobuche 4930m Time taken: Total 3 hours 40mins Today's trek was through stunning, wide valleys with half frozen streams and boulders with the occasional passing yak trains. The only noises for most of the day was the wind, the tinkling sound of the yak bells and the calls of the yak herders. As we started out at 7.30am the sun had not yet reached the bottom of the valley and it was bitterly cold. My hands, especially were freezing, getting pale and stiff and I needed two sets of gloves and to put my hands in my down jacket to warm them. As soon as we reached the valley end and were back in the sun I warmed considerably but this is the first time I have noticed being really ... read more
Dughla 4620m
Stunning views from the trail
Memorial stupas

Asia » Nepal » Pheriche November 6th 2012

At breakfast there is a rumour it was -12 at Pheriche last night, i'm not sure of the accuracy of this, but I do know that the condensation on my window which froze solid last night (see picture), took longer than two hours to melt as they were still there as we left for our trek at 8.30am! The GP from the HRA and his partner had come to the lodge to warm up by the dining hall's central fire and I notice everyone is wearing down jackets this morning. Keen to get warm and moving, we shovel down breakfast and head out.For our acclimatisation trek today we ... read more
Suriya
Pheriche valley from above
Amazing views

Asia » Nepal » Pheriche November 5th 2012

Debuche 3770m - Pangboche 3860m- Shomare 4010m- Pheriche 4240m Time taken: 3 hours 20 mins Debuche - Pangboche 45 mins Pangboche - Shomare 1 hour Shomare - Pheriche 1 hour 35 mins I wake early, about 5.30am after a poor night's sleep at the Rivendell Lodge. I'm amused/horrified to see not only my breath in front of me, but also visible 'smoke' as I open my sleeping bag to in the morning to go to the bathroom. Bathroom trips in the evenings or mornings before the sun comes up are now becoming too cold to consider now unless a certain level of desperation has been reached! After a good hot shower the previous night, and careful planning of which clothes to place under by sleeping bag, thereby heat up before dressing, the morning ritual of packing ... read more
Musk deer at Shomare
Symptoms of AMS
Himalayan Hotel, Pheriche

Asia » Nepal » Namche November 4th 2012

Namche 3420m - Tengboche 3870m - Debuche 3770m Time taken: Namche - Tengboche 4 hours 30 mins Tengboche - Debuche 30 mins We start out from Namche early and the first two hours of the day are pretty easy going on a sunny undulating path but there is a definate sting in the tail of today's hike. Suriya has a friend he would like to stop in on for a morning tea break, so we stop during the morning in a tiny village called Sanasa. It turns out that Suriya's old school teacher lives here and he is keen to catch up with him. Suirya has also developed a sore throat and so takes some medicinal Raksi (local brew) to help. This makes him rather more chatty than usual and it is not long before a ... read more
Tea stop with musk deer
Stupa stop
Peaks in the clouds




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