There are “stray” dogs everywhere in Argentina. I'm not even sure if they're strays at all, or if their owners just let them wander around like cats do because they all look healthy and fairly well kept. Cuba also had lot's of stray dogs, but they were definitely strays, and there were a lot more of them. So it's different in Argentina. And there's a lot less of them, actually. While waiting for the airport shuttle bus in Bariloche, I got approached by a stray dog. Not an unusual experience, and when you ignore them they usually go away right away. This dog trotted up, sniffed my backpack, and then.... lifted it's leg!!! WHAT?!?!? Luckily I reacted quick, and moved my bag and startled the dog just enough that he didn't manage to pee on it ... read more

There was a whole day to kill before we set out on our trek, and most of it was spent getting ready. I first had to go to the Aerolineas office in town to change my flight on Saturday to a later time. That took about an hour and a half, and it wasn't even busy. Still, job done, and I met with the girls to get groceries. I also gave in and realized I needed hiking pants. Jeans weren't going to cut it if it was going to be even a little bit wet. So I picked up a pair at one of the many outdoor clothing and gear shops in town. They were not exactly inexpensive, so I'd better get some mileage on them back home after the trip. The day of our hike, ... read more

I finally made my escape from Chile. Chile didn't make it easy though. Throughout my time there I ran into Easter weekend, infrequent bus schedules, and a tourist season that was winding down. But I also came across great scenery, wonderful people, and a few cool new experiences to add to the list. I'd say overall I'm just disappointed I didn't have more time to spend in Chile, exploring the Careterra Austral. And there's a lot more Chile I didn't see, so I'd love to come back. At the same token, it's time to go back to Argentina. And I've made a rule that while in Argentina that I must eat steak, or ice cream, or both every single day. This is a good rule. I was headed to El Bolson, but of course it wouldn't ... read more

This had gotten ridiculous. I really just wanted to leave Tranquilo, and I couldn't. I think “Escape from Tranquilo” (working title... maybe I'll go with “Tranquilo”) would make a great psychological thriller or horror movie. In some Hotel California type situation, it's impossible to leave this town no matter how hard you try. Oh, and no one can hear you scream, or something. I'm working on it... And time is against me. I only have two weeks left on this trip, so there's a lot of stuff that I wanted to do that's not going to happen now. I was getting frustrating. I had spent half a day on Saturday trying to leave by any means necessary, and couldn't. And now it was Sunday. Easter Sunday. Every bus that came through town was already full. I ... read more

I grabbed some food for the long bus ride to Chile Chico. And wow, was that a long bus ride. The landscape was... pretty boring. But my original plan for going to Chile was something that Lucy had told me about back in El Calafate. From El Chalten, you can take a bus to a lake, and then a boat across that lake, and then walk a few kilometers across the Chilean border at a place where you can only cross on foot. Then you continue walking for a few more kilometers on the Chilean side to another, larger lake, and take a boat across that lake to the southern most town on the Carretera Austral. And the Carretera Austral is a long gravel highway through Chilean Patgonia that was built by Pinochet, and that everyone ... read more