I could not be more excited about my visit to Agra. Could it actually be as startling as everybody says? On the way, I stopped off at abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri. My Lonely Planet suggested it was a top 18 thing to go a see/do in India. Navigating my way through the dodgy dealers was the first task. Every couple of steps I was stopped by someone trying to sell me guided tours, postcards, Taj Mahal tickets and more. New tactic: iPod headphones on! It worked, although I did get some disgruntled looks on my way. As it was free, I entered the Fatehpur Sikri version of the Jama Masjid (if you've been concentrating, the other one is in Delhi). This one was far more impressive, even though it was apparently smaller. The mosque was
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