Woohoo, we found a new Varanasi... we checked into a new hotel in the vain hope that it was our last one that was prolonging the illnesses but this new one is super duper! We're 4 floors up, so it's quite a bit of trecking to and fro but it's worth it for the hair raising fifth flight up (there's no barrier between us and pretty much the ground floor) as when on the roof, you can see the whole of this side of varanasi, and as we discovered, this is where the real town is. All this time we'd been wandering about the underworld of the street level, with all its grime and filth and cows, but up on the roof tops, there's such happiness and freedom. People work, fly kites, mess around, sleep, everything,
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