Page 16 of Jabe Travel Blog Posts


Europe » United Kingdom » England » Greater London January 30th 2008

London was, as usual, just a waypoint on my travels, this time a staging post between the cold drabness of Saltburn and the sultry laziness of Bali. It would not be the most disappointing fact about my life if I never had to live in London again, but visiting for a few days at a time is perfectly acceptable, the chance to sightsee the areas I deliberately avoided when I was a resident in the '90s and to catch up with assorted friends. The city appals me in several different ways. The sheer cost of everything is an affront, not just because of lingering memories of my Asian travels, but even if America or Australia are involved in the comparison. The infrastructure was developed just too early in the history of technology so that a decent ... read more
Invisible Man
The Nat
London Eye

Europe » Spain » Andalusia » Ronda January 26th 2008

Five years ago, a family journeyed from England to a hovel in Ronda in Andalucia in the south of Spain for Christmas. There they battled condensation, mould, a gas system constantly threatening the risks of an explosion and/or a cold water blast for anyone in the shower, temperatures low enough for indoor conversations to be conducted in a mist of steaming breath, and an oven seemingly operating on candle power, in order to celebrate the festive season. The venue was my sister C's house. It took me half a decade to summon up the necessary psychological strength to return again. There were several reasons drawing me back, ranging from helping C with some DIY tasks, to practising a smidgin of Spanish in advance of my trip to South America, to simply feeling a visit to my ... read more
Building
Building and sky
Light patterns


Another year of travelling and another trip back home for Christmas. Feel free to join me in February for further travels. First stop - Ubud and a reunion with LA Woman.... read more
An old friend from home
North Sea surfers
English Christmas tradition

Europe » Russia » Northwest » Moscow December 17th 2007

One plus point about leaving Yekaterinburg was that I'd finally been able to get a ticket on one of the more prestigious trains in the Russian network and would be arriving in Moscow on the Trans-Mongolian #3. This was the most expensive (in terms of cost per km) of the legs I did - unfortunately it turned out to be the least fun also. The extra money had gone towards a carriage that came with a smiling provodnitsa and one free hot meal per day (both days fish, once containing half a skeleton's worth of bones, once without). The downside was the couple who were already in the cabin, who had spread their luggage and food over all available surfaces and showed no inclination to (re)move any of it. So with the guy's luggage in a ... read more
Ferris wheel detail
Detail
Church of the Ascension

Europe » Russia » Northwest » Saint Petersburg December 11th 2007

The radio on the train to St Petersburg played "Rasputin", an apposite song given my next destination but also a reminder that a worryingly large chunk of my knowledge of Russian history came from Boney M lyrics. I quickly turned to the appropriate section of the TSH, keen to learn something about the man and the times he lived in other than that "to Moscow chicks he was such a lovely dear". St Petersburg's metro still runs on a quaint token system like Boston's, but the imposing safety doors between the train and the platform make it difficult for the novice user to figure out which station they're at. I took my guidebook's advice to simply count the stops. Emerging onto Nevsky Prospekt (the city's main artery), I was immediately reminded of London by the abundance ... read more
Monument to Peter the Great
Ceiling
With knobs on

Europe » Russia » Urals » Yekaterinburg November 30th 2007

The next leg of my journey contained plenty of progress indicators - about 160km west of Krasnoyarsk the train passed the halfway point of the Trans-Mongolia route, another 100km beyond that we crossed from eastern to western Siberia, and about 1700km beyond that we left Siberia entirely. This last point had in times gone by been the Jiayuguan of Russia, where exiles said their goodbyes before heading into their banishment. My cabin-mates were a young couple from Irkutsk who were on their way to Azerbaijan. They spoke little English, though the husband was able to sing along to "Happy Birthday" when it came on over the carriage radio. We were also treated to what I'm guessing was the musical "Mamma Mia" in Russian. I doubt I created a good impression by dozing off and dribbling on ... read more
Detail
Scene
Egg cow

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Krasnoyarsk November 28th 2007

With the Russian rail network covering some 8 time zones, the least confusing option available to the railway administrators was to pretend only Moscow Time existed, so timetables are all in Moscow Time and the fiction even extends to station clocks throughout the country. Thus it was disconcerting to drag my bags to Irkutsk station with evening pretty much nigh but the station clock was proclaiming it was just after midday. My sole cabin-mate on the overnight train to Krasnoyarsk was an older gentleman who slurped his tea, snored, and kept indicating he either had just vomited or was about to, with constant visits to the bathroom. Fortunately the vomit situation was never in the present tense. The TSH informed me that, during the journey, we passed within 1,000km of the location of the Tunguska Event ... read more
Chapel of note
Siberia
Green door

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk November 25th 2007

The train from Ulan Bator to Irkutsk was tattier than the one in which I'd arrived in Mongolia, and the unexpected bonus of toilet roll in the loos and a towel in the linen package was offset by the surliness of the provodniks/provodnitsas (carriage attendants). There weren't many passengers in my carriage and in fact only 1 in my compartment - Tatiana, a Russian professor whose teaching time was split between Ulan Ude in Russia and Ulan Bator. She thrust cups of tea and cheese slices on me, but declined my offer of chocolate biscuits, saying that only children ate such things. Note to self - bring caviar for the next train and hide the instant noodles. With a luggage limit for the entry into Russia, and a good proportion of the other passengers seemingly traders, ... read more
Fur and heels
Building
Detail

Asia » Mongolia » Ulaanbaatar November 19th 2007

One taste I've acquired over the last couple of years has been a love of train travel, with ~5,000 miles on the Indian network no doubt having been the catalyst. As a way of getting from A to B in comfort, with a continuous unfolding of the landscape in between and the chance to meet local people in a neutral environment, trains reign supreme. So a flight home from Beijing was never going to recommend itself when a good chunk of the distance could be covered on the Trans-Siberian railway. The Trans-Siberian is more a collection of routes rather than individual trains. The 3 main routes are the Trans-Mongolian (Moscow - Beijing via Mongolia), the Trans-Manchurian (Moscow-Beijing but skirting Mongolia to the north and east), and the true Trans-Siberian (Moscow-Vladivostok). Heading east from Moscow, these routes ... read more
Sculpture
Morn and eave
Building

Asia » China » Beijing November 6th 2007

Regrettably the "fast" train from Shanghai to Beijing was a 200km/h crawler, giving me a burst of maglev nostalgia. I did however learn a new word for toilet, as a sign in the smallest room requested people to not put wastepaper in the "closestool". Beijing is an exhausting city, and I don't mean that in the same positive way I might use that adjective to describe New York. With it covering such a vast area, the transportation options were disappointingly piecemeal - the subway system was far from comprehensive (and tickets could only be bought from a woman in a booth), buses were crowded and not the easiest to understand, and taxis of course could only give convenience at a price. I took bus number 11 (i.e. walking) whenever possible, a decision my feet came to ... read more
Arches
Pulao on bell
Seventeen Arch bridge




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