Five years ago, a family journeyed from England to a hovel in Ronda in Andalucia in the south of Spain for Christmas. There they battled condensation, mould, a gas system constantly threatening the risks of an explosion and/or a cold water blast for anyone in the shower, temperatures low enough for indoor conversations to be conducted in a mist of steaming breath, and an oven seemingly operating on candle power, in order to celebrate the festive season. The venue was my sister C's house. It took me half a decade to summon up the necessary psychological strength to return again. There were several reasons drawing me back, ranging from helping C with some DIY tasks, to practising a smidgin of Spanish in advance of my trip to South America, to simply feeling a visit to my
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