As well as revisiting old favourites, on my quick trip through the South Island I've tried to tick off a few sites on my must-do-still list. Abel Tasman and Dunedin were both on this list, as was Doubtful Sound, and a fortnight ago I finally visited this beautiful and remote part of Fiordland. We piled camping gear into Luke and Lisa's beast of a 4x4 and drove out to Te Anau for a night under canvas...or under a $10 tent from the Salvation Army store as it turned out! We eventually settled on a grassy clearing after testing the off-road capabilities of the beast on a twilight drive up a muddy, overgrown track. I spent the night wearing all the clothes I own, having weird and scary dreams, and trying not to touch the sides of
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