We had dinner last night at La Caballeriza, a cosy parrilla in the main street of Villa la Angostura. The waiter brought us empanadas, telling us how good they were in Salta, where his father came from. They can be fried or cooked in the oven. He explained how to eat them from the hand, holding them upright. On his recommendation, we also consumed most of a lamb, jointed and grilled, with a rich Patagonian Malbec labelled "Del Fin Del Mundo", followed by "flan" with dulce de leche, then a strong pear liqueur from the freezer. He returned to ask gleefully: "Tea, coffee or doctor?" On arrival in Bariloche, we were pleasantly surprised to find a parking bay immediately in front of the hotel. What we didn't know was that we had to pay. Fortunately, we
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