Sunday in the UK is so much like every other day that it's a surprise to find BA quiet. Shops are closed, traffic is light. The city has dissolved into a moist grey. We wander round the feria, the weekend craft market in Recoleta, past stalls selling jewellery, leather belts and wallets, knitted hats and scarves, mate gourds and wooden aeroplanes. Many of the earrings and necklaces are made from rodocrosita or "rosa del Inca", the pale pink national stone of Argentina. Worshippers are filing out of the white Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Pilar and dispersing into family groups, smartly dressed parents buttoning their childrens' overcoats. At La Biela, most of the outside tables are occupied. In the windows, elderly women in fur coats and men in cashmere sweaters take lunch. Back at the hotel, we
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