Friday 27th May, return to winter

---

It feels as though we've arrived on a different planet. This morning we had an early breakfast, took in the Buenos Aires skyline from the roof terrace at the Moreno Hotel before heading for the airport. This afternoon, following a two hour flight, and a 30km drive through a vast landscape of heather, dried out grasses and snow capped mountains, we drew up at the Administracion at Estancia Puema Hue. Lake views, wooded slopes and complete tranquility. The air is clear.

The property is on the southern shores of Lake Gutierrez, until 12 years ago a wilderness home to rosehips. The owner, of German and Argentinian parentage set about creating a peaceful paradise for up to 30 guests. She has succeeded.

One other couple are in residence, Italian honeymooners, we are told. Cocktail hour is at 7.30 and dinner is already set. Lamb at 8.30. A flurry of activity in the library as we write...a masseur? Probably.

---