October 23, 2009

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Today:
I checked out of my (awful but fantastically cheap: approx.$4 CAD/night) hotel room this morning. Upon return from the hospital the othe day I wasallergic to something in my room, likely the mould. and Everything, everything was damp. So I decided enough is enough and I moved 20 metres down the street to Hotel Tower View where (for approx $7CAD a night) I have a seemingly much dryer room with a balcony. And a view to die for. It looks out over the amazing valley and rolling hills that are below Darjeeling. Lovely. I am hoping to leave for Delhi as soon as tomorrow, from where I will travel to Himachal Pradesh and to Sherab Ling, an amazing Tibetan Buddhist monastery. My friend Joanna lives there half the time and I will be meeting her there to spend about a week there. I can't believe I'm almost a third through my trip.

I wanted to write some of the little things so that I wouldn't forget: My obsession with Cadbury Eclairs: little candies with caramel on the OUTSIDE and chocolate on the INSIDE!!! It's backwards, I know. But let me tell you, backwards is better. So much better. I never knew what I was missing. Also, in India, restaurants often have no bathroom, so today, I bought a slice of apple pie as an excuse to use the restroom in a place called Glenary's. I expected it to be atrocious. Most Western-style things here are. Please see appendix at bottom. It was SO good! I had been feeling really depressed this morning, really "what is the point to anything" kind of mentality and then I had this apple pie. Seriosuly, so delicious, it completely took my mind off of being depressed. I don't know how they made it. I thought they only had tandoori ovens here, not conventional ones . Anyways, will be returning for another slice soon. Much impressed.

Also, they have a slightly posh restaurant upstairs. I've eaten there a few times (slightly posh still amounts to about $6 for a meal that is too big for me to finish). Really bland. I have a sneaking suspicion that that's because they cater to Westerners. Here, they seem to think that Westerners can't handle spice at all. Truthfully, I've grown to like it. My family will balk at me saying this, but I almost look forward to a little spice now. I love hot peppers in my omelettes here.

Today, I saw three young men who were busking . That's a first, and really neat. Their instruments were made of animal skins (I could see snakeskin on one of the instruments) and they were singing in that very classical Indian sounding voice, wavering...I don't know how to describe it, but if you've eaten in an Indian restaurant in the West, you've heard it being played. Eh hem. Also, to those who eat in Indian restaurants in the West, please know that you are being incredibly incredibly pampered. That is NOT what most Indian restaurants are like. The vast majority are really pretty grungy. I often hesitate to enter.

Bananas! My favourite favourite snack here. So much sweeter than home. Lovely.

Smiles. The best way I can describe the way strangers smile at you in the street in Darjeeling is that every one smiles at you as though you are their best friend in the whole world who they haven't seen in a year. It beams right off their faces. I want to learn to smile like that. Everyone looks at you that way. Amazing.

Sonam's Kitchen: this amazing hole in the wall restaurant packed with travellers. She has a lovely firmness/grumpiness about her that I adore and respect. The food takes ages, but it is fantastic. This morning, I had a veggie omelette, buttered toast (ps to Bryelle it's always Texas toast thick here), fried tomatoes (so good!) and slices of cheese. All for 100Rs (just under $3 Canadian).

A scary: last night, I lost the ability to walk. My leg got really really achy, then became so stiff I couldn't move it. I was downtown alone limping and then couldn't walk any more. It felt like it was made of wood.

There are some things I have experienced here that I never could have imagined at home. LIke what it really feels to think you will die (taxi ride on day 1 and bubbles in the arm in the hospital) and what it feels like to not be able to move a part of your body.

I talked to the American-Indian paramedic and she said it was likely loss of electrolytes from my dysentery. Two lovely British travelers saw me stuck in the street and walked me back to my hotel. They hung out in my hotel room with me a few minutes and it brightened what had been so dismal a space. People really make a difference. I spent the rest of the evening forcing down oral rehydration solution, which tastes like contact lens solution, if you've ever tried that. Only I had to drink a litre of it. Yech. They have no Powerade here.

I've bought a few Xmas presents for family. Really lovely things and I've been making sure to buy fair trade here so as to support the local economy in a sustainable way. I've decided to try and rebook my flight so I'll be home for Christmas. I think that'll really matter to me. Gifts from travels will be perfect.

Finally, today is all about traveling. Trying to book a flight to Delhi, overnight bus up to Himachal Pradesh, taxi to Sherab Ling. With any luck, soon I'll be with my friend and lots of monks.

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