Thunder, Lightning, the way to Ninh Binh is Frightening.

---

From the fun of Ha Long we have done a 180, but more about that later.....

We woke up after our first night in a dorm to mixed reviews. Lou struggled, it could be the fact she is getting a cold and therefore kept waking in the night cos of her stuffy nose. (We may have left the country for warmer climes, but the Autumn cold has still found us.) Gregg on the other hand was quite happy. A brief awakening early in the morning as somebody got up to leave for an early bus about 7 ish but otherwise a very peaceful night compared with most he has experienced in hostel in Australia a decade ago, when the only way to sleep was to be so drunk nothing would wake you. (For the record we were both sober.)

We even managed to laze our way through the morning, in part due to Lou's lack of enthusiasm for moving (due to her cold, and her inability to wake up in a room without windows) and also as we had a fairly sparce day planned.

After another free breakfast, Lou opting for bread, jam and cheese, and Gregg the beef noodle soup (local option) we spent a bit more time cogitating our onward plans before finally heading out into the hustle and bustle of Hanoi. Having not seen the weather prior to going out, the fact that it was actually sunny as opposed to hazy caught us out with the sunscreen but walking under the shop canopies and the trees that line most streets means you aren't in it for long, and the sky wasn't free of clouds allowing for patches of relief. We headed to the Hoa Lo prison museum, as we had been recommended it previously by a local and thought we'd give it a try.

On the walk there, Lou's cold continued to cause her trouble and she was feeling pretty bad; to the point where we nearly turned around to go back to the hostel. However we got there at about 12:50, and stood outside trying to decide what to do, as the Lonely Planet says it opens at 13:30 after its lunchtime closure (lunch is early here) only for Lou to notice that somebody had just walked in. When we actually went to the ticket office it appears it is open all day! (Another glowing endoresment of the Lonely Planet's accuracy - and we have teh 2009 latest edition!)

The museum itself sombred both of us, and was quite a hard place to be; that's not a critiscm, in fact I feel a place like this should be nothing other than that, but it is not a walk in the park that is for sure. The prison was created by the French in 1887, and has been used by various regime's to hold various other nationalities until it closed from what I understand in 1973.

If I attempted to give you a potted history of this place here it would not do it justice and would trivialise the various struggles that occurred in this place. Suffice to say since 1993 when two thirds of the complex were flattened to make way for the building of the Hanoi Towers ( one of Hanoi's tallest most modern buildings) the remaining third has been home to this humbling museum. That coming from Britains who were until now far more ignorant of this country's history other than "The Vietnam War" which now seems somewhat of a misnomer. Given the way it affected us both I would imagine that either friends or relatives of those who were held/died here would find it harrowing.

The sombre nature of the "attraction" coupled with Lou's deteriorating condition meant we headed back to the hostel at this point to await our bus - however Gregg had seen this behaviour before and diagnosed a lack of salt, in part due to not embracing the local breakfast (there is a reason Vietnamese eat salty broth for breakfast in heat like this) so we stopped for a bite to eat. The plan was simple air-con to cool and something with salt. Lou when not feeling well is slightly particular and we ended up stopping for ice-cream! However after checking out the menu (in the shop with the a/c on) for five mins the ice cream was off the menu for now (this quick changing of the mind being a classic sympton of her condition) So we both ordered drinks and a pizza to share. The pizza was just cheaper than a sandwich but prices here don't always correlate the way they would at home so we didnn't think anything more of it. What arrived is evidenced in pictures, note the 7up can for scale!

Anyway this still was enough of a short term reprieve for Lou to be keen to head back out for ice cream/frozen yogurt across a reasonable distance of town. We headed for a place we had been to before and after wrong turn or two we found it and settled in to eat our desert in the luxury of a serious a/c machine.

The guidebook came out again, and we decided that we were pretty done with Hanoi and looking forward to heading off, the only thing left was to have a Bia Hoi beer, but Lou wasn't keen so we went and had a normal one anyway. The bar had a balcony as many places do here, however seemed to also have an electricity substation surrounded by a metal fence about an arms width away!After a swift beer we headed for the hostel.

We had been told to be back for 5pm in time to eat and freshen up before our maximum 3 hour, more like 2.5 hour journey, so when we arrived back at 4pm Gregg had time to go to the nearest Bia Hoi shop and sit on a small plastice kids chair and drink a couple of glasses of the cheap beer whilst Lou used the opportunity to get online.

Gregg's two beers cost 12,000VND the same price as one of the previous beers, and about 39p! Whilst returning he also saw a very strange light coming from the sun behind a cloud, the picture doesn't do it justice but it was like the cloud was forming it's own rainbow style effect around it's edges - either that or the bia hoi was stronger than he realised!

On returning to the hostel, we sat down and thought we had better order some food if the bus was coming at 6pm, so did so. Before it arrived the man behind the counter in the hostel came to tell us that the bus was going to be here soon so should he put the food in a takeaway container? We agreed, thinking an early bus was a bit odd but who cares. The minute he walked away the "chef" walked out with Lou's food so rather than argue we started to eat at pace. Gregg's food followed, and the same thing happened, after all we only had five minutes! After bolting down the food we started organising ourselves packing away the laptop etc to be ready for the bus. Then we waited and we waited and then we got the cards out and played while we waited.

Then the rain started. Proper tropical rain, heavy and straight down. Time passes, the 5 minutes expired at about 17:20, it is now 17:45 and we are getting concerned. 18:00 arrives and we are told that as it is raining the bus will be a bit late....? I thought it was going to be here at 17:15. Finally, it arrives at about 18:10 and it is a minibus; after very little thought we ask if we can get in the front and jump in - the back was full so where else were we going to go? We drive about 200yds and stop to pick up another guy- how he gets in I'm not sure but he does and we are off. We are a little bit annoyed that this is the bus but at least we got the decent seats in the front with the legroom! Except it turns out this isn't the bus and after a 10-15min drive we stop at a travel agent's office somewhere else in Hanoi (we guess nearer the outskirts but we aren't sure)

So we get the stuff out in the rain and wait in their little office. After 5 mins we see a big bus turn up, great this looks fine - except it isn't our bus, in fact the minibus dropping people off to get onto the big coach turns out to be our new bus. Lou gets into the front seat with the driver and another guy who is already there (it is a front bench seat designed for 3) however after putting the bags in the back of the van Gregg is sheparded into the one remaining seat (in the loosest sense of the word). The van has one bench seat, for 3, there are already 4 sat on it. So in the foot space in front of the bench is one of the little plastic stools that are so prevalent here, and he gets to sit on that! Not impressed would be an understatement! Even with his short legs (although long in comparison to a Vietnamese) he struggles to fold them so the sliding door can shut.

The only plus point being this isn't the bus for the trip to Ninh Binh either! Which is both a blessing and a curse. We have another "10" minute drive, we have been told, to the bus station to catch a bus that leaves at 7pm; we leave at 6:35. The rain is lashing down and there are now flashes of lightening starting to light up the sky. Whilst driving along, the roads are becoming more and more flooded in patches and it seems that this causes the same reaction in Vietnam as it does in GB, everybody gets on the road! They are as busy as we have seen and in a much worse state to cope with it. Indeed, we seem now to not be driving on the main carriageway but on the unfinished road beside it in order to avoid traffic. We may avoid some but in doing so we have to weave from left to right around foot deep puddles that seem to be catching out both drivers and pedestrians alike, given the number of flooded vehicles with hazards on and the soaking people on the side of the road as cars drive past.

After much checking of the watch, we arrive at 7:05 and despite being told by the friendly chap who is sitting next to Lou in the front that the coach is waiting for us before it leaves, on arrival it isn't there. So we are sheparded into another office. This guy whose English is pretty decent is apparently from Haiphong, a city on the coast near Ha Long which is famous for shoes. We ask what time the bus will get to Ninh Binh, as it is now gone 7 and we were told it was a 2.5-3 hour drive? We are now told 10pm. We both are so glad we booked the hostel online in Ninh Binh for 9-10pm not 8-9pm arrival time, although even that is starting to look dubious. We are both far from impressed given that we had originally decided we would take the train, rather than the bus, but the hostel talked us out of it saying the bus was faster and cheaper.

Whilst in the office a bus arrives, we ask if it is the one for Ninh Binh and we are told yes. So 5 mins after dragging the bags in out of the rain, Gregg drags them back out again through the small crowd in the entrance pushing a few people in the process and nearly knocking a few more over. Suffice to say, it isn't the right bus and we are not amused. Another shows up and it isn't the right bus either. Whilst this is going on, the lightening is really picking up and the white light illuminating the sky is now coming thick and fast, however weirdly there is no thunder. Either the background noise is too high to hear it or there is some other weird weather going on. Then, one fork of lightening finally comes down that we can see as a fork as opposed to sheet lightening in the clouds beyond and the thunder clap is so loud we all jump! It is the only thunder we hear all day despite seeing lightening for about 4 hours!

Also, whilst this is happening, the other buses are being filled up with huge cardboard boxes with brand names on them, panasonic, toshiba etc. containing what we can only assume are electronics. Finally, our bus does show and has already got a lot of passengers on it. Lou goes on with the hand baggage to get 2 seats, whilst Gregg stows the bags underneath. By the time he comes on, Lou is at the back in 2 of the 5 seats along the back, being the only pair together that could be found; as with all coaches people spread out first and guard their territory. We then wait for another 5-10 mins while electronics are loaded onto our bus also.

We are now aware why the back seats always seem to be the ones left till the end to be taken. Our journey to Ninh Binh has taught us a few things..... The Roads in Vietnam are awful! There are periodic lumps in the road that I can best describe as speed bumps, in a coach at the back you are catapulted in the air on both up and down parts of the speed bump. Whilst we were already aware of the hectic nature of the roads here, watching from the back of the coach above everybody else's heads, as the back row is raised up, you can see exactly what is going on. The reason for the constant swerving and pulling out for overtaking manouvres that would get you points if not a ban in the uk is three fold. Firstly, the scooters/mopeds on your inside; beeping at them makes them move a little but you still pull out a bit to go past them. Secondly, the drivers want to overtake, and do so the minute there is a gap beacuse it seems that if you are in the middle of the road you have priority, and lastly along a number fo the roads there seem to be spoil heaps of earth/stone/other products which spill into the carriageway. Going around these obstacles is normal therefore, but doesn't make for a pleasant passenger experience.

After the obligatory stop for food at a roadside cafe, where we tried to stay on the bus but weren't allowed, another of our pet hates, we had a beer then got back on the bus. Whilst doing so, Gregg briefly spoke to our friend from the minibus, asking where we would stop in Ninh Binh at which point we were told wherever we wanted. So, after showing him the map, which he showed to the driver, we settled back to our seats for more jumping about and heat. The last reason for the seats being left, and the one I find hardest to fathom when all the locals are switching off thier a/c and covering themselves in blankets, is that the back is the hottest part of the bus!

During this journey the lights are off but are switched on for brief periods as we pass police roadblocks/patrol cars. We can only assume the fact that it is full of passengers means the police don't pull you over and therefore they put the lights on to show this. It also might explain why there are so many electronics loaded onto these things if the police are interested in trade routes, and what people are carrying?

We were finally dropped off by the crossroads we had been told we would be at about 10:30, and after getting our bearings we made the short walk to our hostel, where I am now writing this. The contrast between this place and Hanoi couldn't be more great on first impressions. The roads are wide yet empty, there are no people or bikes beeping. Our welcome at the hostel was truly warm, and they asked if we were Gregg Portass, holding up the name, and the internet reservation that we had made this morning at breakfast. They instantly appologised for not being able to pick us up, but because of the short notice booking they hadn't been able to get hold of us. Our hosts speak very good English and after a glass of cold water and taking the bags upstairs we returned for a beer before retiring, and writing this. What a day, we now know that the hostel booking the bus isn't always the best thing and we are going to try the train next instead of the roads. We both expect to be here beyond one night, even if there is nothing to do, purely because we don't want to move again yet. We'll explore in the morning and report back.

Well another day has passed and after a good nights sleep in our beds and a lazy morning, we decided to stay where we are at least another night before we even got out of bed. We had our breakfast, (no local option available so it was bread and cheese for us both - although Gregg did venture into an omelette, the first eggs we have tested so far that we are aware of) and then went for a wander about town with only two tasks in mind posting a couple of postcards and sorting out our onward travel in the form of a train, as we are definately over the buses here!

The post office was closed for lunch as we strolled past in the heat of the glaring sun at about midday, (lunch is 11:30 -13:30) and then onward to the train station. The contrast in the roads between here and Hanoi is amazing. Wide roads with barely any traffic in comparison, definately what the doctor ordered. After we got to the train station we checked out the timetable and sat and waited until lunch was over there also, and then bookeed out tickets to our next destination - Dong Hoi. We wanted " Soft Seats" but there were none and so hard seats it was (cattle class or so we understand, we will find out tomorrow) A gentle walk back while people watching and via the post office again and a lazy afternoon, playing cards and having a couple of beers.

Teatime arrived and so we decided to check out a nearby restaurant via a short walk and, in doing so, found a street market by the local stadium. On sale were fruit, veg, small crabs, live fish in buckets, live chickens, until you bought them then their throats were cut right there on the side of the road, eels, pork, which was being butchered on the tables, snails, big clams, whelks of some sort amongst everything else.

We moved onto our restaurant and orded the beef in noodles and the goat with chilli and citronella as recommended by the guidebook. Both arrived fairly quickly and both were nice althought the goat was the better of teh two dishes. Whilst eating behind us an eel (about 2 foot long, and not small in girth) was taken out of its bucket chucked onto the floor and clubbed to death ready to prep for service elsewhere (we assume) a rather random happening, but luckily we had both just about finished so it didn't put us off. Whilst sat down the bright sunshine of the day disappeared in the blink of an eye to be replaced by howling winds and a light not far off dusk despite being too early for that. Then the heavens opened and we were treated to our second tropical rain in as many days. We played a couple of hands of cards whilst finishing our drinks and payed accepting that teh breif walk home would also be a wet one. We stepped out into it and were soaked in no time but on return to the hostel in didn't matter as we were still warm.

We have now dried off and re-packed our bags set our alarms and are ready for the off early in the morning for our first Vietnamese train experience. Until next time....

YYBerries = X
Toilets = Western
Dehli Belly = X
Currency = 5 (GBP, HKD, RMB, VND, USD)
Countries = 4 (UK, HK, CH, VN)

---

Photos

Noodles for breakfast?
Gregg's preferred option, not that it will surprise some of you.

Le Guillotine
A relic of the time when the french were in charge in the prison.

Wall of memorial carving
In the memorial garden at Hoa Lo.

Wall of memorial carvings.
You can just see the edge of Hanoi towers above the wall to the right.

Electricity Substation
The wires right by our beer stop.

Snake Liquer
One of the available delicacies at the roadside cafe.

People watching
Umbrellas on bikes are commonplace as are two people.