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Published: November 11th 2006
Teak rice barge
Felt for a minute that I was living the life of Riley!Well, I have to say that life is definately better for me since my last blog. The ear infection has improved to the point of just being a nuisance now. No more pus. No more pain. Still no hearing, but I have utmost confidence that that will come, in it's own good time. So now you all don't have to hear me whine and complain anymore.
So much has happened in the last few days! Where to start, but at the beginning. So friends, family, and countrymen, grab a drink, get comfortable, and please try to enjoy the next chapter of my amazing journey!
We left Kanchanaburi the morning after the scary Thai doctor incident (btw my appologies to scary Thai doctor. I guess you did know what you were doing after all!) to Ayuthaya by a gorgeous teak barge. It was originally a rice barge over 100 years ago, built to carry tons of rice up and down the river. Now it is a stunning ship, built to carry 12 passengers, completely made out of teak. From the bunk beds in the bottom to the lounge chairs on the sun deck. Bright and airy and totally vacation like.
We rode up the river for 3 hours then stopped at a little river village. I had to opportunity that night to attend a Buddhist funeral ceremony for a lady who had died earlier in the week. I had no idea at all what was going on, apart from alot of chanting monks. I did figure out that Buddhist funerals are a lot more relaxed than Christian ones, as people were coming and going and talking to friends and neighbours throughout the entire ceremony. After the monks stopped chanting and all the incense was burned, there was a glorious feast! Which I was welcomed to with open arms and smiling faces. I was the only one of the group who stayed for the entire thing, and boy am I glad I did. Again, I have no idea what was going on, or what I was eating, but it was damn good and damn fun. And I am sure the punch was spiked, because I was damn giggly by the end of it. Much fun!
The next morning saw me and the group on a cycling tour around Ayutaya countryside, with stops at various local markets and local business'. Our
first stop was at a shop where they made knives and swords that were renowned all over Thailand and SE Asia. The workers would start with just a piece of metal (the type of metal depended on what kind of instrument was being made) and by the end of the day they would have a beautiful sword or set of kitchen knives made. These things were gorgeous, and you could tell were very high quality. I wanted to get a sword for my sister, for protection when she moves to the big city, and a set of kitchen knives for mom for Christmas, as they were sooooo cheap and such good quality. Then the thought of carrying heavy sharp objects around with me for the next 5 weeks made me think better of it. Not to mention getting them through both American and Canadian customs. I can see it now. Fingerless women arrested at border for terrorist threat.
More touring around the country stops and more stops, none really worth mentioning. What is worth mentioning is my bike, though. A piece of metal that I was sure was going to just collapse under me. I was squeaking and clanking
Buddha statue
sorry, I am drunk now, and can't remember where exactly this one was. on this peice of shit for three hours, working twice as hard as everyone else, I am sure. I found myself a few times facing down an oncoming vehicle, as the sterring was so wonky. Finally we reach back to the city of Ayutaya, and our first temple stop. Sorry, don't know the name, but it was stunning. And old. And freaking hot hot hot. Who the hell bikes around the country side in 35 degree weather and insane humidity anyways?? Crumbling walls and headless buddhas everywhere. It was so pretty. I would have liked a little longer there, but it was off to lunch and an afternoon lazing by a swimming pool. At this point I was so freaking sweaty that that sounded like a little slice of heaven.
Later that afternoon it was off to more temples around Ayuthaya, thankfully by songtheaw and not by bike this time. This time it was Wat Phanan Choeng, Wat Yai Chai MongKol, and Wat Mahathat. Not in that order. It was really beautiful and interesting, and exactly what Thailand represents to me. We had a local guide who was funny and interesting and sweaty. Ayuthaya was the original and longest
capital of Thailand, and translates into "Invincible". And so it is. Although there was a lot of damage and destruction of the temples, they were still very beautiful. Sunset at the last temple, Wat Phanan Choeng, was the icing on the cake. Made up for the sweaty, hot, almost unberable heat we suffered throughout the day. I know, I shouldn't complain. But really, it's hard not to.
Overnight train from Ayuthaya to Chang Mai next, which turned out to be alot of interesting fun. No sooner had we gotten our luggage put away than a few of us were off to the disco car, with a strict warning that it was lights out and doors locked at 10pm. Yea, right. We partied hard till the wee hours of 11pm! Suckas on the train didn't know what hit them! The best part? There was a reverse lady boy serving drinks (I guess I will call him boylady) who was freaking hysterical! And perverted. God he was fun. Everytime you ordered one of the huge beers he would bring you the bottle, minus a cup for him. And there were a lot of beers ordered. Dancing on the chairs was in
order, there was so much beer. I am sure we would have danced on the table tops, but the train car is only so high. Not just dancing on chairs, but dancing on chairs, drunk. Right next to wide open windows that a person could easily have fallen out of had the train hit a dog or something. Nothing in Thailand is safe! It makes it so exciting!
A lesson in balance: Take a train ride. Any train ride will do, as long as the train is NOT smooth, and rolls and rocks drastically from side to side, with occasional hard stops at god knows what. Get shitfaced. In your drunken stupor, realize you have to peeeee like a racehorse. With your drunken intelligence, choose the 'local' style toilet. Try to squat and pee. Whatever you do, do NOT squat, start peeing, then fall over mid-stream. Messy messy.
We arrived in Chiang Mai around 10am, with a transfer to the hotel in the first real vehicle I have ridden in since I got to Thailand. A van with a/c. Halleilujah!! (that's spelled wrong, and I just don't care). Immediately off to do Elephant riding in the hills. Sounds
fun and exciting, right? Well, it was. But it was also just about the scariest thing I have done since I started this trip. Elephants are NOT comfortable, nor are they the easist thing to stay on. Even with the little people baskets. I was hanging on for dear life going up and down the muddiest trails ever, littered with the ginormous elephant turds, wondering just how many bones a person could break if they fell off an elephants back. I was going to ask the mahout if I could ride on the neck with him, but very soon realized that was a death wish. The mahouts, on the other hand, did quite well. When the elephant stopped moving, they would make weird humping movements on the neck, grunting their Tarzan language. Could have been almost sexual in nature, except for the mud and shit thing previously mentioned. Every once in a while the elephant would raise his trunk up and fell around for banananas, and I would get slimed. Great fun! Actually, it really was great fun, and I had a blast for that hour. Even including the fear factor.
Next up, bamboo riding. Only four of us
chose to do this, which was good for me, bad for them, because it was really fun! A typical bamboo raft, that you squatted on in the middle (yes, more squatting) while the man steered his way along the river with a smaller bamboo pole. And the river was running quite fast, I might add. This time I did get up the nerver to be the driver. I was steering my way down the river, thinking I was doing so well, until I looked back and saw my partner and the real driver diving for cover from the branches I was sterring them right into. Then I looked forward just in time to get knocked over by a big tree branch jutting out into the middle of the river. Down I went, and immediately got us moored onto a rocky bar. Freaking hysterical. I was crying I was laughing so hard. Needless to say my bamboo driving days came to a quick end. It was a really fun, relaxing, and nice and cool way to spend the afternoon.
A lovely dinner and very quick tour of the infamous Chiang Mai night market, then it was off to my first
experience at Muay Thai (Thai boxing). I must say, watching the Thais watching boxing was much more interesting than watching the actual boxing itself. I ended up falling asleep in my chair, and woke up to a loud "Hoorah!" during the final match, when the Swede guy KO'd the Thai guy. Obviously the cheers were coming from the Farang side of the stadium, as the Thais were none too happy their man got KO'd. And here I was under the impression that there were no knock outs during a thai boxing match!
FINALLY back to the hotel for some well earned sleep!
This morning saw us up and at 'em for my morning at the Thai cooking school. By far the most interesting and entertaining thing I have done since arriving in Thailand. There were 7 of us for this. First, we made a menu, then off to the local market to pick out the ingredients. And talk about fresh ingredients! I learned how to pick out good live shrimp. Saw how the coconut milk and cream was made. How and what veggies to pick out. It was such an amazing market of colour and smells and life!
The fish were so fresh they were still breathing in the stalls. We went by a table of beef, where every concievable part of the cow was for sale. The locals thought it great fun while we farangs were trying to figure out where each part came from (tongue, tail, hoof, liver, intestine). All for sale. Then we came upon the crickets. (Sue, you might not want to read the next few lines). Well, I just couldn't help myself. In popped a fried cricket! Tasted like terriyaki. Had to have two more for photo ops. Yes, that's right. I ate not one, but three crickets!! And I wasn't even drunk! Yet.
We ended up cooking and eating all morning, right through till lunch. It was so much fun. I highly doubt I will be able to repeat the process back home, but today I was an amazing Thai chef. I learned that green curry is the hottest, then red, then yellow. I learned...well, other stuff, too. But can't think of it right now. Just that Thai food is fucking awesome.
This evening we went to Doi Suthep, a temple just outside of town. Verrrry busy and crowded and
touristy, but with Sam as our guide it was interesting, and I learned alot. I also learned that the 305 steps to get up was hard work.
Now I am at the internet bar getting drunk on White Russians that I had to teach the bartender how to make, and writing this blog. Obviously am having more fun now that the ear infection is gone. I do wish I could hear. I have new found respect for those that are hard of hearing. (It's that bad for me. I miss out on at least 60% of conversation around me, becauyse it is already so noisy here, and I just can't hear!). I am having fun in the tour group, but stick to my guns when I say I will never book another one again. I think I said before, it takes a lot of the fun and excitement out of it when someone else is doing all the work for you. Of course, others would say that that fun and excitement is just a lot of hassle. But I like it. And when the hwole group is together I just feel like part of a herd of cattle. But,
as I said, I am having some great fun, and have met a couple of really great friends.
Tomorrow we are off to Chiang Rai and our 4 day hilltribe trek, followed by 3 days in the northen Thailand and Laos and Burma border area. Will have much more to tell you next blog, I am sure.
Interesting tidbit: In the market tonight I was accosted by a man trying to sell me a pair of Thai pants. Before I knew it he had the front part tied up on me, then reached through my legs to tie the back part on. Keep in mind please, that I am wearing a skirt. And since I have taken all my stuff to laundry, am NOT wearing any underwear. Whereelse but Thailand??
Love you all,
Cathy
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hayley
non-member comment
oh frickers cathy you are hilarious. god i love reading your blogs. its like a little internet addiction for me. i check all the time. has cathy blogged again yet, has cathy blogged again yet????? it's awesome. i can also just hear your mother laughing as she reads them. and of course hear a resounding EWWWWW when reading the cricket incident. take care hayley