It's Wan-derful

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Koh Kut must be another word for paradise. If it isn't, then I'm declaring it now. I only wish I could have seen it 10 years ago. The island is fairly big and very hilly with loads of jungle and some very old and massive trees, some coconut plantations, rubber plantations, 2 beautiful waterfalls which are strong even in the dry season, an untouched east coast which is only accessible by boat, and of course the gorgeous west coast beaches and mangrove fringed lagoons. But Koh Kut is also about some really lovely people.

Wan has given me two Thai and two Oil massages since I've been here. She is truly Wan-derful!! Her magical hands stretch and pummel very muscle into submission; and all the remaining London demons are exorcised swiftly. Wan and her three daughters work out of Meow's Massage where you can get a one hour Thai massage for THB 200 (that's £4). I love Thai massage because it stretches you out from top to toes, like yoga but without the effort. Andrew prefers the oil massages which go for a slightly higher THB 250. Great thing on these islands is that coconut oil is produced here, so that's what they use for their oil massage. In other places you often get baby oil, which gives me a nasty rash. We usually carry around our own coconut oil with a few drops of whatever essential oil we fancy that day, and we head off between the beach and dinner time for our bodily indulgence. Meow's Massage provide most of the ladies who massage at the resorts, but there is a large markup on the cost depending on which resort you are staying at, so we have been going straight to the source. From what I can gather, they have been running for about 10 years. Meow speaks perfect English ( she is married to Bob) and even a little Russian, so it is all very easy. Just remember that when you start chatting to Bob after your massage, you are likely to miss dinner. Most kitchens on the island close at 21h30, but fortunately Bob's banter has no limits. Bob is a Canadian in love with Thailand. It is obvious from the way he talks about Thailand and its people and places that he is a true believer. He is also a priceless source of information about Koh Kut and other often missed or little known parts of Thailand. Bob and Meow do motorcycle tours around Thailand on their big Honda motorcycles, too. I think this would be an amazing expedition to undertake if we had more time. Maybe next time...

If you get caught up at Meow's and run late for dinner, then your best bet is to go to Gy's, next to the Hin Dard resort on the main road. Giek has opened her kitchen for us after hours twice now, and her food delivered with a huge smile is by far the best we have had on Koh Kut. She does the full range of Western and Thai dishes as everyone here does, but I always think that when in Thailand.... It would be absolute sacrilege to eat Western food. We have however found that most of the resorts and restaurants we have been to have tried to westernise their Thai dishes, which is a real shame, but evidently there is a Russian market here which demands this. Gy's will do you the real thing and Giek will happily advise on what to try if you can't make up your mind. Andrew, who has had a green curry at every restaurant we've been to in Thailand so far, swears that Gy's is the best. I will vouch for the papaya salad being the best too. Suffice it to say we will be walking (we've handed back our scooter now that we have changed resorts again) a round trip of 5km, in the darkest tropical jungle dark, on a dirt track, over slithering snakes, to eat at Gy's again tonight....

Another one not to miss, you'd think all we did was eat, is the restaurant at Bann Makok. The food is fantastic and the setting just gorgeous on the river. Unfortunately we didn't get to try the very hip and trendy looking Benz which is also on the river and has a famous Thai chef. We have also not managed to get to the fishing village way down south for seafood. Again, next time...

More about food, this time our favourite dessert, mango and sticky rice. This has become a bit of an obsession, but it is not always easy to come by. We have found the Koh Kut mango and sticky rice hotspot though. The tiny (literally 4 seats) outdoor cafe reminiscent of a White Company crossed with Cath Kidson showroom, in island style: Coffee Time. It sits balanced precariously on stilts over what is lagoon in the wet season, and is accessed by a narrow slatted wooden bridge. You leave your shoes ( read flip flops) on the bridge; but between children and puppies, you are bound to be fishing them up from under the bridge when you leave. Probably a good thing it's dry season otherwise they would be joining all the other flip flops washing up on beaches all over the world. The mango and sticky rice is sublime though. Served with hot sweetend coconut milk on the side. Yum!! Omer, even you would love this dish. The lovely lady whose name I have not yet managed to get, also makes an amazing pineapple shake!

Then there is Phlapphlung. She is truly amazing in that she has managed to get the wifi monopoly on the island. I believe she is paying the satellite company to narrow-beam the signal directly to her coffee shop and to block everyone else's connections. Every resort, restaurant and coffee shop on Koh Kut claims to have wifi, free or otherwise. Be warned - they do not. Not even the top resorts have it sorted. But Phlung is connected. Her coffee shop-motorbike rental-home stay business sits atop a hill and Baan Suang is the place to get your Internet fix with a real coffee ( a good one too) or Thai tea on the side. Needless to say, her shop is always full. We'll stop there on our way to dinner tonight to post this blog and collect email.

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Photos

Pineapple shakes at Coffee Time
The empty plates are evidence of mango and sticky rice. Will post pics another time

Khlongyaikee Waterfall Koh Kut
Crystal clear, cool and fresh. Great for swimming on a hot afternoon

Baan Suan
Wifi connections and coffee

At Gy's
Spicy seafood salad and green papaya salad

Mango shakes at Gy's
Best mango shake in Koh Kut