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Published: April 8th 2008
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Ko Chang - Only 3 boats a day
This is the only link to the main land. Groceries are delivered daily. This includes huge ice blocks, that are then put in cooler boxes because there is not enough power for refrigerators. Also the only transport for tourists arriving or departing. Ko Chang: Paradiselike scenery. Blue water. Very few tourists. Too hot to move, so no other option than reading and working on the tan. Nightswimming in a lukewarm ocean with a clear view of the milky way and lightning in the distance. And yet, I didn't last for the whole 10 days on Ko Chang. I was just getting too restless. After 6 days or so, I went on to Ko Phi Phi via Phuket. Good place for snorkeling. It felt like swimming in a big aquarium and made me want to take a course to get my Padi diving licence. Not enough time (and budget) left for that though. Next time. Ko Phi Phi is where the movie "The Beach" was recorded, so plenty of opportunity to see the movie over and over and over until you're sick of it.
I took a cheap flight back to Bangkok from Phuket, to avoid having to spend another night on a bus, and have some time on Sunday to visit the gigantic labyrinth aka the weekend market. I actually got to help fill up a painting of one of the local artists. He creates a painting like this every week, inviting
tourists to join and fill up the gaps as they see fit.
Yesterday (Monday 7th) was D-Day for my teeth. Another full day in dentists chairs. First they replaced the temporary plastic crowns with permanent crowns. I had phoned the hospital just before going to Ko Chang to confirm that I wanted fully ceramic crowns instead of palladium, but apparently that message didn't get through to the right person. Since there was no phone network on Ko Chang, they could not reach me to explain their dilemma. They debated over the subject and decided ceramic would have a big chance of breaking after 1 year, considering the pressure of the braces. So, it's palladium crowns. Hope they will not ruin my general health.
It took about an hour to install the braces. They had explained to me on the previous visit that they would have to put something between my back teeth to keep me from putting my teeth together. My front teeth are turned inward too much, and putting my teeth together would cause me to bite on the lower braces. I asked them back then if I would still be able to chew, and they said
"yes but only soft things"... Well, turns out I can't really chew anything. I tried to eat a spaghetti during the lunch break, and it was not really a success. I can cut it in very small bits so I can just swallow it, but then all taste is lost. Have to say that is a major downer for me. I had really been looking forward to have good food again and have nice dinners with friends and eat bread and cheese again... and I won't be able to do any of that for the next 2 or 3 months! All I can eat is porridge, soup, mashed potatoes, etc... In Bangkok, it's quite hard to find suitable food now. At home, I'll have to walk around with a blender.
After lunch, a male dentist (an exception, most doctors here are female) called me for the most scary part of the ordeal: pulling the 2 upper corner teeth. But it went allright. He managed to pull them out without damaging the facial bones (that was my biggest fear). The first look in the mirror was a shock though. Here goes my social life for the next few months. Two
big holes surrounding my front teeth, enough metal to have overlit pictures when the camera flashes too closely and a speech disorder... "Hi, vould zou like tzo have a drink witzz me tzonigtfff ?". "Sure, why not!". Better not even ask to have dinner now. It takes much more time to get food to the end of my throat with only my tongue, and it takes forever to finish just one scoop of mashed potatoes. And after each meal, I am supposed to clean the whole metal shop with all the special equipment they gave me. "Sorry, have to brush my teeth, back in half an hour or so".
Today I smiled at a little girl here in the internet cafe... she pulled her sisters' sleeve and pointed at my teeth. She had just lost a few teeth herself. "Yes, just like you!". When vendors on the street try to sell me food, I just give them a wide smile, and they understand. Maybe I am safer on the streets at night now. When they approach, I just give them a smile and point my flashlight to the metal so they are blinded by the reflections??
Anyway, the ugliness
and the stares I can deal with. The not being able to eat part is depressing though. Especially now that the end of my trip is approaching so closely. I had wanted to enjoy a good sushi meal in one of the big malls before leaving, and indulge in some good Pad Thai.... On the bright side, I will lose the kilo's I have gained in the last few months. It's hard to see the bright side though, even if looking in the mirror gives a very shiny and bright image now.
It hasn't really gotten through to me entirely yet that this is really the end of the trip. I am flying out on the 10th around 9pm with Sri Lankan Airlines. Stopover in Colombo (not the safest place to be at the moment, just hope that if they plan to explode the airport, it would not be on that day). Arrival in Paris on the 11th in the morning, and overland by TGV to Brussels in the late afternoon. It will feel very strange to be back after so much time. I am looking forward to meet everybody again, and hear about what happened in your lives
Phuket Town - Tourist village
Once upon a time, this too was a tropical paradise and in the Belgian political scene and what music has come out while I was gone etc... but in contradiction to how I felt when I was in Vietnam, I don't feel a real urge to return home now. Travelling becomes your life at some point. Before I left, I was a little nervous and curious about what was awaiting me in all these far away places. Now, I am a little nervous and curious about what is awaiting me back home. For the last 7 months, my world has been a very different one from the one I have to return to, and I have gotten used to it. I have to admit that the liberty of not having responsabilities certainly makes it easy to get used to anything, really. Sometimes I got depressed, of course, but all long term travellers have to go through that at some point. But when you are travelling, every day is a new chance. Every day you can decide to do something completely different or move on to the next place or just relax and do nothing at all and definately you will see things and meet people you would otherwise never have
seen/met. When you're working, every weekday looks the same, every week looks the same. I'll have to get detoxicated from the liberty and the constant arousal of new experiences.
As for this blog... I guess this is the last travel entry. I may post another entry in a few weeks with a list of recommendations for other travellers, and perhaps an entry of how it feels to be back...
I will have my old mobile phone number (+32 485 229 809) again next week, so you can hear the stories irl soon enough.
Finally, I want to thank all the loyal readers once more... I know I have not answered all the comments, but it was always a pleasure to read them. Thanks a lot, it helped me get through some difficult moments and it made me smile to know that I am not returning to an empty world, but to a place where I have friends!
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Rutgerius
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Thank you for sharing :-D and wishing u safe travels.. Jalan jalan!!
Heyhey Sabrina, I am very very happy to report you that I do have a blender, mortar, seeves and all the required chemicals (including fuming nitric acid) to prepare liquid food-stuff. Just kidding, I wished you could enjoy a splash out dinner. Well, I guess it's all part of the game. I'll have recipes ready for you.. how about "Tomaat-Macaroni-Ham-en-Kaas";-)) Mmmm taste is good, appearances less... you'll have to eat 'em blindfolded ;-D Thank you so much for taking all the time and energy to communicate with us, the ignorant audience ;-) I hope to welcome you soon! Safe travels!! xxx R'ius