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Day 25 Sleeping in Rama
Cool view from the hotel, we're packed and ready early. Too early for breakfast it seems. We and every other guest sit and wait very patiently for some action. And sit. And wait. It's not memorable but it's no big deal. Really looking forward to this day- the plan is to drive to Deosai National Park, up to a lofty altitude of 4114 m. It covers an area of about 3,000 km
2. It's the second highest plateau in the world after Changtang Tibetan Plateau (on the list). Whilst it's snow bound from November through May we are getting to experience autumn through the pass- (NOTE- spring is meant to be spectacular with the plateau covered in wildflowers and migrating butterflies). So off we go, once again traversing now sort of familiar roads. It's only about 30km from Skardu but is best travelled slowly (the only real option) and enjoyably. We travel increasing bumpy and ascending roads. Love it. At the pass it is time for a stop for a high altitude chai. It is freezing!! Light cardi and sandals- rookie error. Take shelter inside and pull up a spot on the floor next to
Driving Through Deosai
A nice elevated road, gaining some altitudethree business men from Karachi. Enjoy our hot chai with a packet of coconut biscuits, the business men from Karachi insist on footing our bill. It feels familiar and comfortable in this dark little tea shop, as with sooooooo many places it'd be great to stay just a bit longer.
We continue. Niaz and Karim are proving to be good company. Karim and Mary chat endlessly in the back. I am still up front and don't need to chat too much. I get some input on the music selection. The plateau opens right on up - it is very, very beautiful. The wild flowers capture my attention. We spot lots of squeaking marmots. We don't spot any of the endangered Himalayan brown bears. Deosai was declared a NP as a measure of protecting the bear and trying to reestablish numbers. As with all things there are always two sides. See you tube link for conservation initiative, then an article on the issue the local villagers are now having.
And there goes another marmot. And another. And another. They are outnumbered only by goats.
The drive comes to a screeching halt.... Himalayan brown bear?
Nope.... lunch time. We stop at an area with tents and a tented kitchen (? Bara Pani). There are a bunch of portaloos. Be so cool to camp here. Lunch is good- soup, veges and rice and chappatis and tea. It's nice sitting back watching the comings and goings. We seem to be the only tourists. Back in the car and we head to Sheosar Lake (4124m). Got to admit that I could feel the altitude here- that mild headache is amping up. It is freezing cold and windy, we make a very token effort to walk around before puffing our way back to the car. I cant believe that the altitude has actually affected me given the previous few weeks. Several 4WD vehicles pass - the drive comes to a screeching halt... Himalayan brown bear? Nope. We've already had lunch... so, why the stop? Well Niaz recognises a famous singer from around these parts- Mubarak Ali Sawan. We all get out and MAS tells us he has been entertaining at the Cold Desert Car Rally but is now heading home. We get a song... another moment of surrealness.
