Everest Base Camp Trek Diaries - Day 11

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February 12th 2010
Published: August 9th 2017
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Geo: 28.1204, 85.5945

After an Early rise, I grabbed breakfast and waited for the others till we left at 9am. The day started cloudy, far from the amazing weather we have had the whole time. It was a freezing morning, one of the coldest I can think of on the whole trek. I'm sick of my water bottles freezing to ice. My toes were freezing and numb as usual, but once we started walking they warmed up.
It was all downhill from Thukla to Periche, walking down one small valley and merging into a massive valley ahead.
The landscape looked amazing with the snow scattered throughout. But the cloud was forming thicker and you could tell it was going to snow. At some point halfway down, the dog that followed us up from Thukla to Lobuche had joined us for the trip down to Periche. But only after following a couple coming up.
When we walk, what usually happens, uphill or downhill, is that we split into 3 groups. Usually Krishna races ahead, trailed by myself about a hundred metres behind, followed by Dustin and Chelsey trailing about a hundred meters ahead. But Krishna will stop to wait, then i would stop and have a break until the others arrive. Then it's good to go again.
Krishna ius such a machine, but then again he is a porter and that's what he does. He rarely has water when offered and when we are going uphill or downhill and he's miles ahead, he will be so paitent, but i guess he has to be.
From Periche we took a "shortcut", a small trail that went uphill and along the side of the mountain before dropping back downhill into Sonmare. We stopped at a little bridge, well ladder, place on two rocks over the cold and icey river. Krishna joked about crossing it but thankfully we didn't. but we did cross an equally flimsy wooden bridge just up the trail.
We arrived into Sonmare, the same place we stopped for luch when we came up. I had a pretty decent lunch and loaded a big bag of rubbish i had accumulated over the days. During luch it started to snow. I was excited to trek in the snow as i have never done before. It was pretty light snow, but i still covered every part of my body besides the eyes. I was really warm.
We headed to Tengbouche and I was feeling pretty tired. I kept having trouble making my bag adjust right and to be comfortable, plus going downhill put more wieght on my shoulders a bit more.
But there was no time for complaining, we still had a few hours to go. The snow had been getting a bit heavier but wasn't causing any problems. We transformed back amongst the tree line which is around 4000 M.A.S.L and continued along the snow covered trail. It was fine until we reached the uphill battle upto Tengbouche. I pushed myself to get up quick, Krishna was well ahead and waited for me to catchup. Then he shot back up the mountain as he does. I tried to keep up, but there was no chance.
I had another dog follow me uphill, stopping and starting as i would. Finally i reached the top of the hill to Tengbouche with 2 jackets unzipped and sweating. Iwent straight to my room for a baby wipes shower but they were too frozen. So i placed them around the fire to defrost them.
The snow was heavy and consistant and we kept wondring if we had to stay another extra day or if we could keep going.
As we were in the main dining hall there were three other groups. Three oldish Germans, a group of five Koreans (Koreans are seen all over Nepal, usually in big groups or tours) and another couple. Along with the porters and owners, made for a busy little room, all calmmering for some heat from the fire.
Dustin, Krishna and myself played cards till dinner arrived. Dustin and Chelsey both ordered the Yak Steak which i thought would be dodgy, it looked nice though. I mentioned to Dustin after he ordered that it sounds good and that I'm sure he will feel better in 3 or 4 days. I also said how it makes you wonder how they store meat in such a place. Dustin didn't enjoy those comments, but sure enough the following day he had food poisoning.
We continued to play cards, including other porters and owners to play. I ended up in bed at about 9pm, pretty late compared to other nights.

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