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Published: August 7th 2007
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Atop Ghyaru
With Annapurna II in the background This blog by Jacqui:
Trek summary (walking times not including breaks/lunch):
Day 5: 3 h 35 mins CHAME (2670 m/8,760 ft) via Keleku and Bratang to UPPER PISANG (3300 m/10,826 ft)
Day 6: 4 h 35 mins UPPER PISANG via Ghyaru and Ngawal and Mungji to BRAGA (3450 m/11,319 ft) (acclimitization night 1)
Day 7: 20 mins BRAGA to MANANG (3540m/11,614ft) + Day Hike 1 h 30 mins to top of Gangapurna Glacier and back (acclimitization night 2)
Day 8: 3 h 50 mins MANANG via Tengi and Grunsang to YAK KHARKA (4018m / 13,182ft)
At 8,760 ft, Chame was where we were first expecting to feel the effects of the altitude and we were not disappointed, waking early with interesting dreams to ponder. It was from here until over the Thorung La pass that we needed to keep the fleece and gloves in close proximity and even get out the down jackets. From Chame, the spectacular Paungda Danda (Wave Rock) guided us into the Manang Valley. The Paungda Danda is a magnificant cliff of granite that towers over you and sweeps around the valley like a giant wave. Passing through shady pine forest we
Nepali Police Escorts
for the dynamite porters walked a few miles with Nepali police who were escorting dynamite porters for road building. We pass workmen pounding holes into the rock path (which we are walking on!) to load with dynamite. In the late afternoon we hear the blasts echooing up through the valley and feel somewhat relieved we had a fast walking day. The extra 45 minute walk to Upper Pisang was well worth the extra energy as we were greeted with spectacular views of Annapurna II. We reenergized on Dal Baat and spent the afternoon talking with Amy (USA) and Stephan (Bulgarian), a couple who spend half the year working on a station in Antarctica and the other half traveling, about Indian travel tales and their Himalaya hiking adventures.
The glare from the full moon into our adobe-style bungalow managed to wake me up for sunrise. The sun cast its rays on the peaks of Annapurna II at first light making day 6 one we'll never forget. We will also remember this day for our choice to hike the upper (and steepest) path to Ghyaru. The steep 350 m/1,148 ft almost vertical climb was well worth it with a panorama of Manaslu, Annapurna II, Lamjun
Twilight view back east to Paungda Danda
with a huge moon (this picture doesn't do it justice) Himal, Annapurna III, Gangapurna, and Tilicho Peak at the top. The relatively flat cliffside walk to Ngawal leaves us feeling dizzy and nauseaus and we cannot figure out if we have altitude sickness or severe vertigo (in hind sight the latter). But, being level with huge soaring eagles (or hawks?) catching drifts up the valley was quite an amazing feeling. We have entered the high altitidue desert with dry arid land and it is our arrival in Braga where we arrive exhausted (4 h 35 mins walking time only not including breaks and camera stops) and start day one of our acclimitization to avoid AMS (acute mountain sickness).
Contrary to the guide books we decide to stay one night in Braga and one night in Manang (as opposed to two nights in Manang) and this allowed us to enjoy exploring Braga village and the 500+ yr-old Tibbetan Buddhist Gompa. We sit and listen to the local Buddhists chanting and praying, never stopping while they give us puja blessings. Afterwards, a short 20 minute walk takes us to Manang where we hike to Gangapurna lake and glacier (elevation gain: almost 4,000m) for our acclimitization walk (hike high, sleep low is
the motto). We spend the evening visiting a traveling Nepali dancing company who is entertaining the entire village where all the kids are out to see and be seen.
From here on out our guide advises us to have easy days to avoid AMS, so despite being at high altitude with thin air, the daily walking exursion and times from Manang to Thorung Pedi (foot of the Thoung La pass) were somewhat easier than our mammoth days at the lower altitudes. Day 8 starts with a gradual but steep climb to the 2-building town of Grunsang and we leave the Manang valley and enter the hairy Yak territory of Yak Kharka (Yak Pastures)
Recommendations:
Low versus high route to Manang: Definitely High - it is harder but the views are spectacular and this extra elevation gain can help avoid AMS. Don't let your lazy guide convince you otherwise!
Stay in Braga 1 night, then Manang (instead of 2 nights in Manang), or even consider staying a 3rd night in Grunsang (or night 2 in place of Manang) which has some unbelievable mountain views.
Annapurna Hotel, Upper Pisang: Adobe rooms with direct views of Annapurna II.
On the trail! Blasting rocks!
All day every day the trail gets more accessible as the workers widen the path to make a road to Manang New Yak Hotel in Braga is probably the most well-kept, luxurious teahouse on the circuit. Get the corner room with big windows overlooking fields full of horses.
Mavis restaurant in Manang - great mexican, errr... is it indian?... food
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