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Published: August 7th 2007
This blog by Lucas:
Trek summary:
Day 1: 9 hour bus ride from KATHMANDU to BHULEBHULE via Mugling, Dumre, Besisahar
Day2: 6hrs 10 min BHULEBHULE to JAGAT via Taranche, Ngadi, Usta, Lamtaka, Bahandanda, Ghermu, Sitaldada
Day 3: 5hrs 25 min JAGAT to BAGARCHAP via Chamje, Tal, Dharapani, Thonje
Day 4: 3hrs 25min BAGARCHAP to CHAME via Danaqu, Temang, Thanchok
After our organizational marathon in Kathmandu we were eager to get on the trail. We boarded a local bus with excitment and anticipation for our trekking adventure, sharing the next 9 hours from Kathmandu to BhuleBhule with goats, schoolchildren, farmers, our guide Thakur and porter Rajkumar (Raj), and other fellow trekkers in fake North Face gear. Our bus driver was capable, if not a bit maniacal, as he careemed out of the hills of the lush Kathmandu Valley on the Prithvi Highway. We decided to ignore the overturned bus we saw on the road on the way.
Upon arrival in BhuleBhule we immediately got our first spectacular views of Himalayan peaks, featuring Himalchuli (7893m / 25,896 ft) and Ngadi Chuli (7835m / 25,705ft), our first of many Dal Bhat meals, our first encounter with a huge
suspension bridge across the Marsyandi River, and our first witness of the armies of pack donkeys making their trek into the mountains.
Day 2 takes us through a narrow green valley terraced with wheat and corn fields and colorful Nepali women working the land. Past Ghermu we wander through the Annapurna Circuit's famed wild cannabis fields and a pretty cool waterfall. We went hard our first day, logging 6 hrs and 10 minutes of uphill walking time (not including breaks), spurred on by Tom Petty and a Blues mix from our iPod and portable speakers (which brought some smiles from local Nepalis on the trail).
On Day 3 the landscape is already changing fast, with the terraced green agriculture giving way to a very steep, narrow gorge filled with the glacier-green/blue water of the Marsyandi River and some crazy high suspension bridges. When we reach Tal, we have officially merged from Nepali ethnic cultures to a Tibetan Buddhist culture, with rockier, more alpine environs and more snowy peaks looming in the background. We learn a little about donkey freight from our guide, who tells us the going rate is about 1400 rupees ($20) per 100kg (220lbs). The trails
are full of these donkeys bringing supplies to the far-reaching villages, and it can be a bit scary when sharing a rock-cut cliffside trail with certain death your fate if you try to pass them on the wrong side. Eventually we end our northerly journey and head west, getting our first glimpse of the majestic Annapurna II east face. We are definitely in Tibetan culture now, with lots of heavily tanned, sun-wrinkled faces and heavy clothes made from Yak wool. They look surprisingly similar to Native American Indians. Along with the donkeys, we start to see some beautiful Burmese Mountain Dogs.
Day 4 gives us our best views yet, including spectacular views of Manaslu, the 8th highest peak in the world at 26,781ft / 8163m. The air is starting to get thinner, and colder, as revealed by lung burn on some steep sections of the hike. We get another close-up view of Annapurna II rising from the valley, and stop in a really cool little town called Chame, where we learn to make Tibetan Momos (like raviolis) in our guest house. The kitchen is definitely the social center, and not always open to guests/trekkers, but we are invited into
Our first glimpse of the Himalayas
Himal Chuli (7893m / 25,896ft)
Ngadi Chuli (7835m / 25,705ft) aka Manaslu IIthe dark smoky room for warmth, tea, and lots of hand-gesture communication and smiling. We are now past our sore muscles of the first few days and feeling great.
Recommendations:
Take the bus all the way to BhuleBhule from Kathmandu (rather than Besisahar)
In BhuleBhule, stay in one of the guest houses on the east side of the river so you can see the mountains better.
In Ghermu, the Rainbow guest house is a great place to stop for lunch with waterfall views
We wish we'd hiked slower and stayed in Chamje and Tal - very cool little villages.
Paradise Guest House in Tal for lunch and/or lodging
Manaslu Restaurant (up the steep climb after Danaqu) is a great place for lunch and incredible views of Manaslu.
The New Tibetan Guest House in Chame is old, dirty and run-down, but has the most character and best kitchen and we loved eating and staying here right on the river.
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