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Published: October 21st 2007
the Miracle Grand
haha, when the royal nepalies airlines cancels flights on you.. they put you up in style. Maybe you can see the tv in the shower. So I watched the chelsea chamions league game while taking a shower.
It's nearly been a full month since I updated everyone and I as mentioned, Anja and I were headed out onto the anapurna circut. Well what can be done in 17days, took us 23ish... i think. We started off day 1 on track with a crew of us walking together. It turned out that there was a crew of us on the flight that all had the same kind of agenda. We all wanted to get out on the anapurna circut before the trail got really busy during the real high season. The high season is usualy the busiest because it usualy has the best weather. But, weather is weather and the monsoon is supposed to end around the end of september so we headed out anyways.
The monsoon actualy did finish during the midle of september but we just got unlucky and had some bad himilayan mountani weather. So half-way through our second day of walking (from Ngadi to bagarchap) the rain started and our progress really slowed down. So we wound up stopping in this little tibetan town hugging the cliffs along the Marsyangdi river. We didnt move for the rest of the day nor the next. The
found this off of a main road. Leave the main area of thamel or one of the main tourist cites by a few meters and your the only "whitie" around
rain and wind was blowin so hard the second day that leaves, rain and anything else the wind picked up was moving completely horizontaly and when the locals wont walk... neither do I.
The next day was clear blues all around and we dropped Affja off at the next town cause she was dead sick and then kept goin up to Tal. Saw the biggest spider i'd ever seen before... big enough so that when I shined my headlamp on it while squattin over the whole in the ground playin the good ol game of bombs away, I could see the light reflectin off it's eyes straight back at me; plus... I dont do spiders, and well, that was an awkward bathroom break.
Long story short, we made it too Chame and then upper pisang over the next few days. Anja's shoulders had been killing her since day 1... but this was the first day I really started to feel mine so the endless adjustment of straps began until I finaly fit the bag properly on the second last day.
From Upper Pissang we took the alternate and more difficult route to Manang that went through Grhrau
This is one of the main ancient squares in kathmandu but I couldnt tell you which one yet. We were only in KTM for the one day and we ended up stumbling into this outside nepali idol type show.
and Ngawal. If any-one ever asks, tell them they're not allowed to go to manang without going this route. By far the best day of the trek. The trail was no longer a high-way (like the main one... for both locals and tourists) but a trail. ya.. by far th ebest day.
Anyways, we then took our tiem getting from upper pisang to the pass because we had a couple issues with Altitude sickness... so we went slow and were alright. We didnt take diamox either which was kinda dum, but we were o natural, with our own bags on our backs (which hardly anyone does by the way... people would comment at how impressed they were with us for not paying a porter to carry our stuff for us...). Getting over the pass though was a mean day. We were up and out walking by just past four. It took us nearly four hours to get up to the pass and then almost another 6 to get down. When up that high though it really changes the rate at which your body can function. I wasnt affected no-where near as some others, like anja, she had to go
pokhara trekkers shop
a typical trekkers shop in nepal. Selling fake anything and everything.
real slow once past about 5000m. I'd stop take pictures.. mess aroudn and chat with whoever then eventualy leave be cought up again in no time.
Once over the pass the landscape changed immedieatly. From green, to grey. Which was honestly really cool for the first day, but then we started walkin on the riverbed. Ya sounds good and all but by day three of the rocky riverbed my feet didnt want to move any more and the flip flops fealt soo good by the end of the day. We eventualy made our way to tattopany(approx. spelling) where there is a hotsprings in town that wasnt too dirty. So we took another rest day off and relaxed. After walkign some 180km we fealt we were allwoed. Anyways, the last four or five days were farely un-eventful. Walked up through the rice-fields to ghorapani and then down through the jungle to naya-pul; the end.
Now... well. We're back in Kathmandu and we're not sure what to do. I was kinda stressed there for a bit because I wasnt sure when I wanted to get to lanka, but I'm tryin to book a flight now so that I get there
circut day #1
Anja walkin the trail with the climbing family from washington state. They were on delayed flight form BKK with us... part of the A401 crew.
around the first half of december. So that means i'm pretty much gonna have no time in india which for the moment... doesnt really bother me. In about 10days we're goin on what will hopefully be an epic 9day raft trip down the sun-koshi river out towards east nepal that will be followed by ... well, we'll see. We may go to chetwan national park to try and see some rhino's and tigers and then maybe i'll go do everest while Anja starts volunteering. Or i'll go to india or who knows for now... maybe i'll end up in tibet ??
Email me and i'll get back to ya.
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